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#12439 - 07/13/04 01:28 PM Looking Glass Rock NC (Aid)
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
Thinking about heading south for some semi-big wall Aid. I know very little about Looking Glass Rock other then its has some big aid lines and it looks steller.

Anyone have any beta on good routes (C2+/3- at the most)

Thanks

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#12440 - 07/16/04 02:29 AM Re: Looking Glass Rock NC (Aid) [Re: Smike]
kmc Offline
stranger

Registered: 07/16/04
Posts: 23
Loc: New Jersey
Also planning a trip to Looking Glass Rock in a couple of weeks, not doing any aid though. Im not very familiar with the area either, and would appreciate any beta area, good routes (perhaps .8s and below, and gear to bring (would a standard gunks rack be suitable?) Would appreciate any info you might have.

Thanks,
Kevin

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#12441 - 07/16/04 01:11 PM Re: Looking Glass Rock NC (Aid) [Re: kmc]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
kmc:

Both the South Face and the Nose Area have fantastic 5.8 and under climbs, up to four pitches long. Climbing in the Nose area (The Nose (5.7), Sundial Crack (5.8)) is primarily steep friction climbing on the infamous "eyebrow" features (with bolt anchors). It's really spooky at first, because there really is nothing to grab hold of, which, if you're from the Gunks, is just odd. However, you soon adjust and learn to appreciate the frcition quality of granite, and you can sort of undercling/press the eyebrows. Protection is generally had deep inside the eyebrows, with cams and tri-cams being your best friends. Bring a standard assortment of cams, and tri-cams up to the brown or blue, if you have them (I didn't, and was fine, but could have used them).

Over on the South Face area, it's still friction-y climbing, but with vertical crack features that can be jammed or liebacked. It's really fun climbing, and there is an assortment of high-quality 5.7/5.8 stuff. For some damn reason, I can't recall the name of one climb there, but they're great. Same rack.

If it rains, you're pretty much screwed, 'cause it takes a long time for the rock to dry out. The Glass is a really fantastic place, but be warned, the popular climbs can queue up quickly, so get there early (which you'll want to do anyway, to avoid potential afternoon T-storms).
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#12442 - 07/16/04 01:26 PM Re: Looking Glass Rock NC (Aid) [Re: nerdom]
kmc Offline
stranger

Registered: 07/16/04
Posts: 23
Loc: New Jersey
Thanks for the beta nerdom. Will definetly check out those routes when im there, if i can somehow teach myself how to crack climb and friction climb in the short amount of time that im there. But it should be fun to try to learn as I go.

Kevin.

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#12443 - 07/16/04 05:44 PM Re: Looking Glass Rock NC (Aid) [Re: Smike]
CrackBoy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
hey mike, one of the older back issue, aybe 2 years ago had a bunch of topos for NC stuff, i have them at home somewhere so i will try to dig it up and get you the issue numbers
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#12444 - 07/17/04 01:31 AM Re: Looking Glass Rock NC (Aid) [Re: Smike]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1763
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
I've seen the north face and it looks very intimidating. I think that's where most of the aid lines are. It looks like a little El Cap.
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Arms

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#12445 - 07/18/04 04:08 PM Re: Looking Glass Rock NC (Aid) [Re: CrackBoy]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
Thanks Mitch for the info. Ya Arms, from the pics I have seen it does look like a mini El Cap

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#12446 - 07/19/04 06:29 PM Re: Looking Glass Rock NC (Aid) [Re: Arms]
cranken Offline
member

Registered: 10/27/01
Posts: 122
Loc: the south, the north, the east...
The North Face is usually closed until the peregrines fledge. The district ranger usually will reopen closed routes as soon as he is reasonably sure they have. The Glass is in the Pisgah National Forest and you can find their phone # from their website. (can't locate it, the fellow I used to talk to was Wade Carpenter). These guys have been pretty good in the past about opening up the closures because the climbers have respected the closures. There is a pretty good aid line on the sun wall called Super Conduction 5.7 C-2.
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"hrumph... I've got rocks at home to clean." - Marge Simpson

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#12447 - 07/29/04 02:16 AM Re: Looking Glass Rock NC (Aid) [Re: cranken]
kmc Offline
stranger

Registered: 07/16/04
Posts: 23
Loc: New Jersey
Just got back from my trip to Looking Glass Rock. Unfortunatly, the weather did not want to cooperate. Rained everyday we were there, and had rained just about every day for the past month. Did get short enough break from the rain to actually make the hike to the south face and consider roping up. As we were checking out the area, the sky opened up once again, and the rock turned into a giant waterfall.
This was a beautifal area though, with most impressive looking rock and climbs. I will most definelty going back there at some point in the future to do some climbing.
So while I was there trying to find something to do in the rain, did get a chance to climb at the local gyms. The town of Brevard has a gym that just opened which was ok, but very small, and Asheville had a gym with some pretty good bouldering, but both made me appreciate my gym much more. So if anyone else is planning on climbing at the Looking Glass and gets rained out, check out the gym in Asheville for some decent bouldering.
Thanks again for the advice and route suggestions, next time hopefully ill actually get to climb some of them.

Kevin

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#12448 - 07/29/04 11:24 PM Re: Looking Glass Rock NC (Aid) [Re: kmc]
cranken Offline
member

Registered: 10/27/01
Posts: 122
Loc: the south, the north, the east...
One time, I was lying in my tent in that little cove, falling asleep to the rain, knowing that the rock would be too wet to climb. My buddies had already left after the weekend and the limited chance of climbing wet slab. The next morning broke clear, blue and with a slight breeze.

After an extremely lesiurely breakfast/brunch, I decided to hoist my pack and at least hike to the base of the south face. By the time I got there, the sun was shining, the rock was drying and I was partnerless. Well, I set up my rope solo rig, while not extremely complicated to rig, still requires some work to set up anchor, rope, and head space.

Just as I had finally pulled my helmet on, took a few breaths, and reached out with my right hand; the skies opened up. Not with a little passing shower, but those big raindrops, the size of jumbo grapes. It came pouring down for exactly 60 seconds. Just enough to thoroughly resoak the rock. To add insult to injury, out popped the sun to make the whole thing into a steam bathe. Always willing to listen to climbing omens, that was the day for me. Off to tex-mex place for chile rellano.
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"hrumph... I've got rocks at home to clean." - Marge Simpson

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