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#12616 - 07/27/04 02:00 AM sixish?
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
There is nothing SIXish about sixish. 5.4 all the way.
nice nice nice.
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#12617 - 07/27/04 03:54 AM Re: sixish? [Re: empicard]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I don't know man. I think those opening moves are decidedly harder than 5.4. But then again, I suck

RR

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#12618 - 07/27/04 04:20 AM Re: sixish? [Re: RangerRob]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
I would agree with Rob (on both counts, actually).

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#12619 - 07/27/04 05:07 AM Re: sixish? [Re: Steven Cherry]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Sixish does not refer to 5.6-ish, it refers to the aid used on the roof of the last pitch (now a 5.9 or 5.10 variation). The six in this case is the roman numeral VI, used in those days to denote aid climbing (and not to be confused with the later use of roman numerals for overall commitment grades).

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#12620 - 07/27/04 01:05 PM Re: sixish? [Re: RangerRob]
piglet Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/06/01
Posts: 384
Loc: Long Island
I thought that there were 2 ways to do the start - one that goes at 5.4 and one that goes at about 5.6.

Deirdre
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#12621 - 07/27/04 03:04 PM Re: sixish? [Re: piglet]
cranken Offline
member

Registered: 10/27/01
Posts: 122
Loc: the south, the north, the east...
I sure would like to know the fourish start. It always seems that the way I do it IS sixish, though only for one pull and then it's onto easy cruising.
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#12622 - 07/27/04 03:25 PM Re: sixish? [Re: cranken]
JoeKayak Offline
old hand

Registered: 06/21/02
Posts: 970
Loc: Manhattan


piglet is correct: the left start up the corner in the six start. the four start move up and right, then back left again on the first foot-sized ledge with not much positive hands.

and rg, thanks for the history. it kinda makes sense in that i read something that said the third pitch (roof, from the gt ledge) feels more like a six. based on that, there could be your interpretation or the one i'd always thought, which is that it feels harder than a four after the traverse right (the move up and out). but i've never led that part.

and thanks for finally asking about a route i actually know something about. now...any questions on bunny? or black fly/nice crack climb? c'mon!!!

jk

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#12623 - 07/27/04 05:15 PM Re: sixish? [Re: JoeKayak]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
OK, I have a question about Betty. What is the official second pitch?

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#12624 - 07/27/04 05:18 PM Re: sixish? [Re: empicard]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
i meant to ask, for the last pitch, (i did it in 2) do most people climb the face, or the vertical crack on the right side of the face? the vert crack was nice.
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Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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#12625 - 07/27/04 05:25 PM Re: sixish? [Re: empicard]
scottie_c Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 05/01/02
Posts: 284
Loc: NY
I don't believe the pitch above the GT ledge has been mentioned, which is where I thought the hardest move was.

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