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#12745 - 08/18/04 11:36 AM
Arc of a Diver - nice route!
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veteran
Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
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Arc of a Diver is on our list of hidden gems, but I'd never been on it until Saturday. What a nice route! Some good face climbing up to the GT ledge, with one very cool sequence above a fixed pin (which can be backed up).
Then a very short crux pitch to the top, the crux being a corner roof problem. Very good gear.
You pretty much have to do it in 3 pitches, there's a ledge along the way that was giving me enough rope drag that I stopped about 40 feet below the GT, at a stance. (I'm not sure doubles would make any difference.)
That turned out to be a good place, by the way, because it meant there was no rope drag at all, and complete line-of-sight for me and my partner for the tricky climbing near the pin (probably 5.8, by the way; comparable to Walter Mitty).
I belayed right after the roof to be able to see my partner, who I was pretty sure wouldn't get the roof clean (I was right). From there, the scramble to the woods isn't trivial, though she did it without gear and without complaint. Be careful up there, or place gear.
We did the route with one rope and walked off.
If you're breaking into harder roofs, this route is a great step along the way. Much easier than p2 of MF, and much much easier than Jean.
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#12748 - 08/18/04 08:20 PM
Re: Arc of a Diver - nice route!
[Re: Frank Florence]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2054
Loc: SoCal
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I remember the gear being a little spacey around the pin (thus the existence of a pin there), I but was following Scott, who is very comfortable on 5.7. He may have either skipped something, or run out of a size of gear, since he went to the GT in one pitch.
I'd agree with the roof move having a reach component to it ... I was going to say something about that before, but I'm trying to wean myself away from height complaints
Suggested combo: do the first (2) pitche(s) of Trusty Rifle to the GT. Or Bloody Bush.
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#12749 - 08/18/04 08:27 PM
Re: Arc of a Diver - nice route!
[Re: Julie]
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old hand
Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1049
Loc: Newtown, CT
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Quote:
ggested combo: do the first (2) pitche(s) of Trusty Rifle to the GT. Or Bloody Bush.
Trusty Rifle is fun little climb, where does Arc go from the tree atop Trusty Rifle.
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#12752 - 08/19/04 03:12 PM
Re: Arc of a Diver - nice route!
[Re: Steven Cherry]
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veteran
Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
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No one is even mentioning the roof I had trouble with. Sheesh. Am I alone in thinking the move over that tiny little overlap on P1 was hard?
I'm with Julie on P2. I followed someone and therefore found it to be straightforward and pretty 5.7. I thought the PG-ness had something to do with poor rock quality though?
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#12754 - 08/20/04 01:14 AM
Re: Arc of a Diver - nice route!
[Re: dalguard]
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veteran
Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
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Quote:
No one is even mentioning the roof I had trouble with. Sheesh. Am I alone in thinking the move over that tiny little overlap on P1 was hard?
I went around it to the right, it's only a few feet away, and the alternative seemed harder than 5.7, and a pretty bad potential fall.
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