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#12776 - 05/01/06 04:53 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: Daniel]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
I didn't get lost, then again I had been given some beta before I left the ground, and spent several minutes staring at the traverse (thinking "I have to go WHERE?") before I set out.

I did the normal route of Fillipina and although I haven't done The Nose I tend to agree that The Nose is probably a better start Some wrong routefinding led me to a high, steep leftward traverse that ran out of holds, followed by hanging on gear cursing and a long downclimb/bushwhack to get back on route. That traverse really looked like a fun alternative though--if you've ever done the Lady's Lament/Boldville linkup, then you've seen the start of it and all the chalked-up sucker holds, and it probably looked like an appetizing 5.9ish line. Too bad it goes nowhere.


Edited by pedestrian (05/01/06 04:56 PM)

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#12777 - 05/03/06 01:34 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: pedestrian]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Daniel, I like Proctopuss personally. Here are some more....

Rauncheopath- climb through the crux of Raunchy and then angle up left to the crux on Osteopath. Turns an okay route into a little better than okay route.

Strictly From Shockley- climb through the crux of Strictly from nowhere, Second pitch will climb the crux section of the second pitch I believe, then angle right to meet the belay for the last pitch of Shockley's. Awesome route.

Direct Exposure- Do Directissima in one pitch from the ground, essentially punching stright uo the arete. (one of the best pitches in the Gunks mind you), the obviously finish on High E. God one to swap leads for mismatched leaders climbing together.

Erect Kaleidoscope- first pitch of Erect Direction, and the last 1 or 2 (depending on your preference) of CCK or CCK Direct. Absolutely one of the best linkups in the Trapps.

Man's Quest For Flight into Treaverse of The Clods- While I have not done this yet, I am told it is really really good.

I could keep going, but I'm tired and I going to bed

RR

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#47544 - 08/18/09 08:17 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: RangerRob]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
I'm reviving this old thread because I led Hans' Puss the other day and I was thinking about how much I enjoyed it and how it seems the bolts have killed off much of the route. (Everyone seems to use pitch one just to toprope Feast of Fools, which I refuse to do because someday I'm gonna onsight lead that sucker! But I digress.) It seems to me to be a special shame that many people skip the second pitch of hans' Puss. I almost backed off it when, after moving about 15 feet to the right, I wasn't sure whether to trend up a little or go straight, and I didn't see much in the way of footholds or gear placements. But then I saw a pin (thank you, pin!) and when I got to the pin it all seemed clear. A really nice 5.7 pitch.

After we did the third pitch, which I thought was enjoyable for 5.5, and certainly worth doing but not as good as the first two pitches, it occurred to me that Hans' Puss should be THE way to get to Traverse of the Clods (which I've never done). That way you get a 4 pitch climb with quality traverses, of (roughly) increasing difficulty, on every pitch! And a half-day adventure. A really good workout for the traverse averse, like me. I'm definitely going to give this a try. What do you think?
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#47545 - 08/18/09 08:31 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: SethG]
fotovult Offline
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 137
Loc: ny
Another good one right there: P1 of Proctoscope>P2 of Feast of Fools.
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#47546 - 08/18/09 10:32 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: SethG]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Originally Posted By: SethG
I It seems to me to be a special shame that many people skip the second pitch of hans' Puss. I almost backed off it when, after moving about 15 feet to the right, I wasn't sure whether to trend up a little or go straight, and I didn't see much in the way of footholds or gear placements. But then I saw a pin (thank you, pin!) and when I got to the pin it all seemed clear. A really nice 5.7 pitch.


Ditto. We did this 2nd pitch a few weeks back, headed for TotC. Was raining, or threatening big time, so we didn't continue. This seems generally overlooked and as with all great traverses is quite exciting both for the leader and the second. It might be 5.7ish but you need to have your wits about you, so I would not rec. to the noob leader pleased with themselves after the 1st pitch of HansP..

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#47549 - 08/19/09 01:06 AM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: ianmanger]
Bill Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/18/03
Posts: 85
Loc: Mass Land
As long as you are reviving the thread, Dog-Stick-Ridge (5.8 PG) as described in the Purple Dick. Ed P led the first pitch, I took the second. Start on The Hounds, straight up to Generation Gap alcove belay, traverse right finish on Yellow Ridge. Terrific climb!

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#47560 - 08/20/09 07:49 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: Bill]
dstrickler Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/26/07
Posts: 23
Mothers Day through Birdie Party roof
Start on Star Action and traverse left into Co-Ex
Double Crack then traverse left to Fool's Rush In (described in Grey Dick)
Directissima but stay right of arete after undercling roof; avoid the traverse and finish straight up

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#47579 - 08/21/09 09:53 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: dstrickler]
TrappDyke Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/10/09
Posts: 80
Squat Thrust into In Between the lines in one pitch. 4 solid cruxes on perfect rock the whole way.

Pitch 2 of Enduroman into the Directtissima arete. Although easier and less pumpy than the normal finish beyond the roof, the arete is sooo nice.

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#47608 - 08/24/09 05:40 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: TrappDyke]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Raunchyopath. Start on Raunchy, pull the crux, then step left into the crux of Osteopath. Nice way to finish.

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#48198 - 09/30/09 09:04 PM Re: Worthwhile Link-Ups [Re: RangerRob]
wombat Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/08
Posts: 147
Loc: gardiner
started up the Nosy Phillipina this weekend. Some great climbing to the crux which struck me and my partner as looking harder than 9-. Looked harder than Wegetables which I had done earlier. It certainly is G but really pumpy to protect. It was getting dark and i wasnt feeling it and backed off out left and around the top. was really clean with some great old pins and some good cams and not so good cams (loose rock in some horizontals that needs some visits to clean out so get out there and do it!)

pedestrian - i guess i am having a hard time figuring out where you got lost on your attempt. i took an easy left traverse to get back to the upper nose when i bailed. although i did come straight up from phil.

its not a link up, but do the second pitch of wegetables (left variation) it adds some good climbing although really dirty and pretty easy above the second roof. needs some visits to clean. i did as one long pitch on doubles with some rope drag and was out of gear a good way short of the GT ledge (but easy climbing. needs some visits to clean the rock above.

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