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#12997 - 09/14/04 12:03 PM single pitch gunks routes
Anonymous
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Starting from the left edge of the trapps (Short and simple) how far right can routes be climbed in a single pitch? I know that you can single pitch all the way right to No Picinic and all the top-rope at the uberfall area. Can single pitch be done in the Bunny area? How about from Dennis thru RMC?

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#12998 - 09/14/04 01:51 PM Re: single pitch gunks routes
MurphysLaw Offline
gumby

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
Depends (TM) on how long yer rope is.

You can do Frog's Head and just about everything left of it in 1 pitch w/ a single 60m if you so desire.

I've heard that Madame G's has been done in one pitch, but that might need doubles or a lot of long runners.
(I saw a party doing it in 1pitch, but they had a 70m rope - that's cheating! )

I've seen Arrow done in one very rope-stretching pitch, you'd certainly hafta belay from the upper ledge at a minimum, and might even have to simulclimb if yer 60m rope is a teeny bit short.
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#12999 - 09/14/04 01:58 PM Re: single pitch gunks routes [Re: MurphysLaw]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
The question is, where at the Gunks couldn't you do a single pitch? Assuming a straight up route.

From the top of high E one double rope rap is a stretcher with 60s, so you'd have to belay there unless you had a 70. With a 70, I think you could hit the top from anywhere.

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#13000 - 09/14/04 02:31 PM Re: single pitch gunks routes [Re: MurphysLaw]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
Yeah, you can reach the top of Madam G's from the ground with a 60m, but there's not much rope to spare. Scramble up to the first ledge or even further up to the tree and you have plenty of rope to reach the top.
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#13001 - 09/14/04 03:07 PM Re: single pitch gunks routes
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
Bunny and Horseman are commonly done in a single pitch.

Assuming the question is, what's practical to do in one pitch, it's a little hit or miss.

I've done Baby in a single pitch, and even though I placed my first gear off the p1 belay ledge waaaay above the tree, I still had a lot of rope drag running over that edge. I wouldn't do it again that way (maybe doubles, where you essentially started the second rope near the roof, would be okay).

On the other hand, Son of Easy O is to the right of that, and it's often done in one pitch.

Some individual routes can probably be done in one pitch throughout the Gunks. Madame G is often done skipping the hanging belay and with a little extra care you could probably go all the way from ground to top. Bonnie's Direct could probably be done in one pitch, especially with doubles, the last part is so short.

Over in the Nears, Disneyland is easily done in one pitch, with the judicious use of a 4-foot runner in one place. Layback is fine in one pitch (though it's more fun in 2). I'm sure Baskerville could be done in one pitch, because it's just a single arcing line. Alphonse, on the other hand, is awful as one pitch with a single rope (I say this from painful experience) and I think doubles would only help a little. Yellow Ridge is surprisingly impractical in anything less than 3 pitches. I think I've seen people do Fat City Direct in one pitch though.

Besides left-right wandering, for most of the Trapps, the main factor is the depth of the GT ledge or any other ledges. It's actually the biggest problem, because it can't really be solved just with longer runners.

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#13002 - 09/14/04 03:41 PM Re: single pitch gunks routes [Re: Steven Cherry]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2954
Loc: LI, NY
if you were going to do bunny in 2 pitches, where would you stop? why would you bother? do people top out on bunny, or do people just rap off the tree?
i guess if you planned on topping out, belaying at that fat tree would be the place.

i guess i just answered my own question.
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#13003 - 09/14/04 03:50 PM Re: single pitch gunks routes [Re: Steven Cherry]
chazman Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/07/02
Posts: 944
Quote:

Yellow Ridge is surprisingly impractical in anything less than 3 pitches



I have always done this in 2 without any problems or rope drag (with one rope).

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#13004 - 09/14/04 05:17 PM Re: single pitch gunks routes [Re: chazman]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
Combining P1 and P2, or P2 & P3? I've done the former, but don't recommend it if your second isn't solid on the off-width, as the rope stretch (and some unavoidable drag) can make for a difficult time of it!
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#13005 - 09/14/04 06:06 PM Re: single pitch gunks routes [Re: nerdom]
chazman Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/07/02
Posts: 944
P1 and P2.

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#13006 - 09/14/04 09:46 PM Re: single pitch gunks routes [Re: chazman]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
Quote:

P1 and P2.




Actually, I haven't tried that. We went about halfway out pitch 2, which was fine, but then the remaining pitch wasn't good at all. But then, which start did you do off the ground? And was the second protected in the p1 corner, before starting the (start of the ordinary p2) traverse?


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