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#1303 - 12/20/00 04:36 PM Favorite climbs anywhere
andrew Offline

Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
Howdy,

Curious to see what people's favorite routes around the country are. The point is to find interesting climbs in places I may not think to go-I'd prefer to hear about a climb that is really fun but obscure than yet another recommendation to do Whitney-Gilman, the Royal Arches, or Bastille Crack.

Here are some of mine:

1. Kor's Flake, Lumpy Ridge CO 5.7+ Neat 5 pitch route on a remote wall for Lumpy. Every kind of climbing from fingers to offwidth. Much less crowded than climbs on the Book or the Twin Owls.

2. Conn Diagonal, Sylvan Lake SD 5.7 Three pitches up a really impressive formation. The second pitch is a wild hand traverse above a big overhang-lots of exposure and unique climbing.

3. Mexican Hat, Southeast Utah A1 Quick easy bolt ladder up a bizarre formation in a remote corner of the desert in Utah. Very unique climbing.

4. Montezuma Tower, Garden of the Gods CO 5.6 Cool skinny sandstone tower with bomber gear and decent rock. 2 pitches of fun.

5. North face of Harney Peak, Black Hills SD. This is a neat 500 foot or so wall on the highest peak in South Dakota. Obscure, and no reported routes that I know of. I and many other SD climbers have climbed it several times-with good route finding there are tons of reasonably protected routes. In the winter you can start it with a pitch of fat water ice that goes at about WI3 or so. Start from Palmer Creek road(which runs between the Mt Rushmore highway and the Sylvan highway), and park in the filed below the big face. Good adventure without a ton of commitment.

6. Three Tiers, Tenmile Canyon CO WI2+ This is a fun solo-a long gully with several 30-50 foot steps of reasonably steep ice. It can have up to 600 feet of climbing in some conditions. Climb as high up the gully as you feel like and then scramble down to the left.


andrew

Its all A1 until you fall.
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#1304 - 12/20/00 05:27 PM Re: Favorite climbs anywhere [Re: andrew]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Rock:

North Conway: Seventh Seal (5.10a) thin finger crack on the left side of Whitehorse

The 5.8 combo: 4pitches of 5.8 up Cathedral

Yosemite (Ca)
The Moriatorium: 3 pitches of high quality climbing P1: perfect corner 5.10d; P2 perfect corner + techy stems 5.10d; P3 5.11b technical butt scumming P4: slightly loose 5.9.
Red Zinger: Nice fingers forever but not for in the realm of everyone (5.11d)
Serenity Crack: the High Exposure of Yosemite (Crowds from Hell)
Central Pillar of Frenzy: five pitches of 5.8-5.9 climbing
Ying-Yang (120ft of beautiful corne cracks at solid 5.10d)
Tuolumne (Ca):
Crescent Arch: 3 pitches of solid 5.9 up a perfect arch
Bombs Over Tokyo:the best finger crack in Tuolumne (5.10c)
Calavaras Dome:
Wall of the Worlds and Fallen Angel (5.10d): good climbing
Last pitch of Gemini Cracks (finger crack that sucks the fingers in; the most fun 5.9 pitch I've done anywhere period)
Squamish (BC):
Crime of the Century: Splitter crack with perfect pro(5.11c)
Gunks:
Junior (5.9 face thats good fun)
Bird Cage (5.10a inside corner)

Ice:
Anything in Rifle, Colorado (no crowds, clean nearly virgin ice) (WI4+ to WI6)
Secret Probation: a toughy but fun techy mixed climbing with a wild knee drop start (M6+/7 WI5+ now a days forming WI4+/WI5-)
North Conway
Dracula Left and Right good thunker ice (WI4+/WI5-)
Smugglers:
Artificial Intellegence in Children: beautiful cascading ice(WI4/WI4+)
Blue Room : beautiful ice formations(WI3)
Have a Cigar: see blue room (WI3)
Daks;
Anything on the North Face of Pitchoff (good thunker ice WI3 to WI4)


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#1305 - 12/20/00 06:43 PM Re: Favorite climbs anywhere [Re: andrew]
Layback Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 816
Loc: Monroe, WA
Maine: Acadia National Park: A Dare By The Sea (5.10+). A beautiful 1 pitch climb right on the coast of Maine.

NH: Cathedral Ledge: Thin Air (5.6) Ya gott love it!

CT: Ragged Mtn: Weissner Slab (5.3). Though it's an easy lead, I just can't get enough of this one.

Free Tibet
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#1306 - 12/20/00 08:11 PM Re: Favorite climbs anywhere [Re: andrew]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
1. Corrugation Corner, 5.7, Lovers Leap. 600+ feet of every possible type of climbing, face, chimney, arete, crack.

2. No Man's A Pilot, 5.9-5.10, Wallface, Adirondacks. Three "approach" pitches of easy 5th class take you to a 3-part crux chimney with good gear. The next pitch is a hard 5.8 corner with some squeezing, then the last pitch is, as the guidebook says, "the most exposed 5.3 you'll ever be on".

3. Pioneer Route, West Face, Monkey Face, 5.7 A1, Smith Rock. Two 5.7 pitches to an A1 overhanging bolt ladder take you into the Monkey's mouth. Eat lunch and look out at a distant southern Cascades skyline. Climb out of the mouth to massive blunt-arete exposure, a few hard moves protected by bolts lead to some 3rd class scrambling atop the Monkey. Stop in the middle of the rappel to get a good look at Just Do It.

4. Serenity Crack, 5.10d, Yosemite. If these three pitches (10a, 10a, 10d) were side by side at the Gunks they would be more popular than the Mac Wall.

5. Steck-Salathe, 5.9 (right! 5.10b), Yosemite. The guidebook calls it an "odyssey." Finishing it was like being reborn. For me, the hardest thing I've ever done (and I didn't lead any of it).



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#1307 - 12/21/00 03:46 AM Re: Favorite climbs anywhere [Re: Steven Cherry]
merlin Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/31/99
Posts: 1352
"the nose" 5.8 looking glass rock, north carolina....4 pitches of clean granite slab climbing....really cool place....and well ummm interesting pro.....



"Birds dont write textbooks...people do!!"
-Professor Alan E. Mann

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#1308 - 12/22/00 12:51 AM Re: Favorite climbs anywhere [Re: andrew]
Eddie Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1446
Loc: NP. NY
Peroxide blonde Mt Buffalo Australia
unnamed 5.8 hand crack at frog buttress australia
unnammed 5.10 hand crack at resovior wall in indian creek
9 gallon and 5 gallon buckets smith rocks
many more that i can not remember the names of in NRG at the bridge buttress...the roof crack! and the junkyard wall
the lower gorge at smith rocks
champange jam alabama
eddie




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#1309 - 12/22/00 09:45 PM Re: Favorite climbs anywhere [Re: merlin]
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 192
Psychotic Reaction (5.8+) at Champe Rocks, West Virginia. By the way has anyone climbed at Greenland Gap cliffs in W.Va? It is horizontal strata rock reminiscent of the Gunks, and the cliffs go for quite a ways. Huge potential. Probably on private property? I did 1 climb there years back. I also heard rumors of ever better Gunks-like cliffs at other locations down there. Anybody have good info on these hillbilly Gunks cliffs?


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#1310 - 12/22/00 11:05 PM Re: Favorite climbs anywhere [Re: andrew]
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
A lot of the best ones I have done are of the really popular one's that you may not be looking for like Serenity Crack to Son's of Yesterday (Yosemite), the Nose (Yosemite), Leaning Tower (Yos.), Wahsington's Column (Yos.), Lost Arrow Spire (Yos.), Traveler's Buttress (Lover's Leap), Diamond (Colorado), Ancient Art, Castleton Tower, Supercrack of the Desert (all Utah).

A few other great one's that are a little less know. The Hess-Ferguson route on Hallet's Peak is an amazing 8 pitch 5.9. The route climbs the nose of hallet peak and looks over a number of beautiful high altitude lakes. There is a great stemming crack corner and the upper pitches have great face climbing. There is even the perfect ledge half way up the climb. The Carter route (another of the 50 most crowded climbs) and a bunch of other climbs on Hallet have seen a lot of rockfall and this is an excellent alternative to climb an amazing wall.

The Northwest Buttress of Higher Cathedral in Yosemite is another great one. It seems miles from all the tourists. There is tons of great climbing, lots of good cracks, chimney's, offwidths, sweet line, etc.

At Lumpy Ridge, Fat City to Cheap Date is a greatlinkup. Nice 5.8 flaring hands to thin fingers, and then out the crux excellent body length hand crack roof. One more great pitch of 5.9 crack leads to Cheap Date a steep 5.10 seem. The fingerlocks are so good though that it seems pretty tame despite its steepness.

In Red Rocks, Frogland may be one of the best 5.8s I have done. There is one pitch where you climb up these twin rp cracks in a stemming chimney. At the top, the chimney opens up and there is a 15 foot boulder chalked in the chimeny. There is a hole in the left corner and you tunnel back behind the boulder and then climb atop it from the backside and belay on top of it. Every pitch is great and from the summit you you are standing on a platform that divides black velvet canyon and the desert/ vegas strip. Dark Shadows is another great 5.8 there. When we did it in March, you had to step over a small waterfall to get onto the climb. Great jet black cracks and then you can jump in the pool after you finish the climb.

A few other good one's. Zoo View (Moore's Wall, NC); Diedre (Cathedral, NH), Yellow Spur (CO), etc. etc, etc.

Bobby


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#1311 - 12/23/00 12:17 PM Re: Favorite climbs anywhere [Re: andrew]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Epinepherine and Levitation 29


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#1312 - 12/24/00 04:33 AM Re: Favorite climbs anywhere [Re: andrew]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Braille Book, E Buttress Middle Cathedral, Yosemite
Reaux Champeau, Roadside Attraction, Fuzzy Undercling, RRG
Resistance and Persistence cracks, CCK direct, Caffeine and Nicotine, Gunks
On the Loose, 'Dacks
Gumby Direct, Smith
Indecent Exposure, Hueco
Anything in Central Park! (not even kidding ha ha)
Any bouldering at Buttermilks, Dacks, Lincoln Woods, Hueco, Indian Rock and Stoney Pt. (only if mid-70's in mid-winter!), etc etc etc.

Anyway that's what comes to mind right off.


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