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#13146 - 10/04/04 05:59 PM Jean
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
What's the scoop on this route? I was belaying a friend on Sixish yesterday, and watched a guy blow the roof repeatedly (at least I now know the gear below the roof is good!). So I scoped it out after rapping off Sixish. The horizontal over the roof looks decent, but kinda slopey because of the angle you're hitting it. There looked to be a honker incut hold about a foot higher and to the left. Is the move over the roof straightforward, or is there a "trick" to it. Thinking of giving it a try next time out.
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#13147 - 10/04/04 06:26 PM Re: Jean [Re: nerdom]
Timbo Online   content
addict

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 696
Loc: Delaware
Quote:

Is the move over the roof straightforward, or is there a "trick" to it. Thinking of giving it a try next time out.




IMHO it's straighforward. About a .10b move, but straighforward

TS
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#13148 - 10/04/04 07:17 PM Re: Jean [Re: Timbo]
PeteG Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/30/00
Posts: 300
Loc: Saranac Lake, NY
To my recollection, it's a bit reachy and might be considered harder than 5.9 if you're shorter than I am at 71". I agree with Timbo that the move is rather straightforward. And yes, the gear under the roof is good.

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#13149 - 10/04/04 07:21 PM Re: Jean [Re: nerdom]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!

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#13150 - 10/04/04 07:29 PM Re: Jean [Re: pedestrian]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
that sounds fantastic! I have got to get on that!


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#13151 - 10/04/04 07:35 PM Re: Jean [Re: nerdom]
edk Offline
addict

Registered: 05/06/02
Posts: 441
Loc: allentown, NJ
Quote:

What's the scoop on this route? I was belaying a friend on Sixish yesterday, and watched a guy blow the roof repeatedly (at least I now know the gear below the roof is good!). So I scoped it out after rapping off Sixish. The horizontal over the roof looks decent, but kinda slopey because of the angle you're hitting it. There looked to be a honker incut hold about a foot higher and to the left. Is the move over the roof straightforward, or is there a "trick" to it. Thinking of giving it a try next time out.




I led it and rg@rmc and Bob the ranger with ring side seats.... they were kind at least (but hey did laugh a little at me when I complained)

Anyway, its a good route, and 10b sounds about right. Its *very* hieght related and I usually dont use that as an excuse, but in the this case is very true. One tough roof IMO and yep the gear is fine.

ed

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#13152 - 10/04/04 07:59 PM Re: Jean [Re: edk]
Timbo Online   content
addict

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 696
Loc: Delaware
Quote:

Anyway, its a good route, and 10b sounds about right. Its *very* hieght related and I usually dont use that as an excuse, but in the this case is very true. One tough roof IMO and yep the gear is fine.

ed




As I recall, being short (I'm 5'7"), I was forced to make 2 moves off of 1 pad crimps before I could get the semi-good hold, thus my impression of 5.10b

T
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#13153 - 10/04/04 08:06 PM Re: Jean [Re: edk]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
haha! Nice job, tradgirl!

Alas, I suspect my friend is trying to sandbag me -- he tells me it's "easy for 5.9", a "one move wonder", and "big holds the whole way."
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#13154 - 10/04/04 08:20 PM Re: Jean [Re: nerdom]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
I believe there is "a trick" that makes it 5.9. But having said that, I downclimbed the whole thing after failing miserably the first time.

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#13155 - 10/04/04 08:47 PM Re: Jean [Re: Mike Rawdon]
browndog2 Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/24/01
Posts: 767
Loc: livin' on the edge
Nerdy, you're a big dude. At six foot one, I'll agree its reachy, but a fella yer size should be able to pull it and not make it seem any harder than (gunks) nine. Crackers might not even be able to detect a crux, sorta like No Glow. If it feels like a ten, its because ITS THE GUNKS, watta ya expect? (Of course its a Gunks nine, there's no move on it tougher than 10b ) If ya wanna feel real Gunks 10b, go pull Birdie Partie roof, complete with alternating heel hooks with biddy little crimpers and almost-good-enough green aliens to ride on. Then you can mutter about sandbag.

Edited to add, if you feel the nine grade is off, do Jean's twin sister 20 feet to climbers right, Precarious Perch. I believe the guidebooks agree it also gets the nine nod. Same deal, face to a roof, and reachy moves.


Edited by browndog2 (10/07/04 02:27 PM)
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