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#13146 - 10/04/04 05:59 PM Jean
nerdom Pooh-Bah * Registered: 09/07/01 Posts: 2483 Loc: Davis Sq., MA	What's the scoop on this route? I was belaying a friend on Sixish yesterday, and watched a guy blow the roof repeatedly (at least I now know the gear below the roof is good!). So I scoped it out after rapping off Sixish. The horizontal over the roof looks decent, but kinda slopey because of the angle you're hitting it. There looked to be a honker incut hold about a foot higher and to the left. Is the move over the roof straightforward, or is there a "trick" to it. Thinking of giving it a try next time out. _________________________ we're all living proof that nothing lasts
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#13147 - 10/04/04 06:26 PM Re: Jean [Re: nerdom]
Timbo addict Registered: 12/23/99 Posts: 694 Loc: Delaware	Quote: Is the move over the roof straightforward, or is there a "trick" to it. Thinking of giving it a try next time out. IMHO it's straighforward. About a .10b move, but straighforward TS _________________________
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#13148 - 10/04/04 07:17 PM Re: Jean [Re: Timbo]
PeteG enthusiast Registered: 03/30/00 Posts: 300 Loc: Saranac Lake, NY	To my recollection, it's a bit reachy and might be considered harder than 5.9 if you're shorter than I am at 71". I agree with Timbo that the move is rather straightforward. And yes, the gear under the roof is good.
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#13149 - 10/04/04 07:21 PM Re: Jean [Re: nerdom]
pedestrian Pooh-Bah Registered: 08/05/02 Posts: 2244 Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!	http://www.tradgirl.com/articles/jean.htm
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#13150 - 10/04/04 07:29 PM Re: Jean [Re: pedestrian]
crackers Carpal Tunnel Registered: 03/21/01 Posts: 3424 Loc: pdx	that sounds fantastic! I have got to get on that!
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#13151 - 10/04/04 07:35 PM Re: Jean [Re: nerdom]
edk addict Registered: 05/06/02 Posts: 441 Loc: allentown, NJ	Quote: What's the scoop on this route? I was belaying a friend on Sixish yesterday, and watched a guy blow the roof repeatedly (at least I now know the gear below the roof is good!). So I scoped it out after rapping off Sixish. The horizontal over the roof looks decent, but kinda slopey because of the angle you're hitting it. There looked to be a honker incut hold about a foot higher and to the left. Is the move over the roof straightforward, or is there a "trick" to it. Thinking of giving it a try next time out. I led it and rg@rmc and Bob the ranger with ring side seats.... they were kind at least (but hey did laugh a little at me when I complained) Anyway, its a good route, and 10b sounds about right. Its very hieght related and I usually dont use that as an excuse, but in the this case is very true. One tough roof IMO and yep the gear is fine. ed
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#13152 - 10/04/04 07:59 PM Re: Jean [Re: edk]
Timbo addict Registered: 12/23/99 Posts: 694 Loc: Delaware	Quote: Anyway, its a good route, and 10b sounds about right. Its very hieght related and I usually dont use that as an excuse, but in the this case is very true. One tough roof IMO and yep the gear is fine. ed As I recall, being short (I'm 5'7"), I was forced to make 2 moves off of 1 pad crimps before I could get the semi-good hold, thus my impression of 5.10b T _________________________
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#13153 - 10/04/04 08:06 PM Re: Jean [Re: edk]
nerdom Pooh-Bah * Registered: 09/07/01 Posts: 2483 Loc: Davis Sq., MA	haha! Nice job, tradgirl! Alas, I suspect my friend is trying to sandbag me -- he tells me it's "easy for 5.9", a "one move wonder", and "big holds the whole way." _________________________ we're all living proof that nothing lasts
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#13154 - 10/04/04 08:20 PM Re: Jean [Re: nerdom]
Mike Rawdon Carpal Tunnel Registered: 11/29/99 Posts: 4230 Loc: Poughkeepsie	I believe there is "a trick" that makes it 5.9. But having said that, I downclimbed the whole thing after failing miserably the first time.
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#13155 - 10/04/04 08:47 PM Re: Jean [Re: Mike Rawdon]
browndog2 old hand Registered: 04/24/01 Posts: 765 Loc: livin' on the edge	Nerdy, you're a big dude. At six foot one, I'll agree its reachy, but a fella yer size should be able to pull it and not make it seem any harder than (gunks) nine. Crackers might not even be able to detect a crux, sorta like No Glow. If it feels like a ten, its because ITS THE GUNKS, watta ya expect? (Of course its a Gunks nine, there's no move on it tougher than 10b ) If ya wanna feel real Gunks 10b, go pull Birdie Partie roof, complete with alternating heel hooks with biddy little crimpers and almost-good-enough green aliens to ride on. Then you can mutter about sandbag. Edited to add, if you feel the nine grade is off, do Jean's twin sister 20 feet to climbers right, Precarious Perch. I believe the guidebooks agree it also gets the nine nod. Same deal, face to a roof, and reachy moves. Edited by browndog2 (10/07/04 02:27 PM) _________________________ (not that there's anything wrong with that...sorta)
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