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#13242 - 10/10/04 11:29 AM Red Rocks guide book
Anonymous
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I'm looking to go climbing in Red Rocks on my Vegas vacation. I would like to do some sport climbing. Can anyone tell me what the best guide book is? I would like to order it so I would have it before I head west.

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#13243 - 10/10/04 12:35 PM Re: Red Rocks guide book
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1763
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
There is "Red Rocks Sport Climbing Guide by Jared McMillen" but I don't know how good it is. The general guide by Todd Swain has sport and trad.
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#13244 - 10/10/04 04:07 PM Re: Red Rocks guide book
feck Offline
member

Registered: 08/22/04
Posts: 133
Loc: Accord, NY
There is an excellent book called: Islands in the Sky that covers the entire Vegas area including Clark Mountain, Mt Charleston, and other incredible areas. The author is Dan McQuade. It is entirely a sport climbing bible for the area.

Jarred's book is ok (no offense!) and would get you through a short vacation if you are just sporting at the Loop Road in Red Rock, but if you really want to indulge, check out the first book. It is one of the better formatted guidebooks.....ever.

Lots of fantastic sport climbing (best in US -- or possibly most in terms of quantitiy of hard routes). Some of the very best limestone in the United States is at Clark Mountain, but be prepared to warm up on hard 12's.

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#13245 - 10/10/04 05:19 PM Re: Red Rocks guide book [Re: feck]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Are there as many manufactured holds at Clark and Charleston as rumor suggests?
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#13246 - 10/10/04 08:03 PM Re: Red Rocks guide book [Re: MarcC]
feck Offline
member

Registered: 08/22/04
Posts: 133
Loc: Accord, NY
Quote:

Are there as many manufactured holds at Clark and Charleston as rumor suggests?




In a word, yes.

But that does not mean that there are not a lot of natural routes as well, and in fact, the overwhelming majority of lines have not been "improved". There are many high quality lines, and mostly the best lines, that are completely au natural.

If one climbs 5.12 and up, it would be unwise to not hit Clark. Charleston has some more "moderates" (5.11 and under), but the real action is in the 5.12 and up grades. At these grades, one will find very few (but some!) tampered routes.

Also, I go on record as being against manufactured routes, and mostly avoid climbing them, but I try not to be overtly militant about it.

Another caveat: depending on time of year you plan your visit, these chiseled areas may be a be too chilly for one anyway? Charleston is definitle an apline area and gets quite cold -- and icy!-- during winter. Clark remains climbable due to southern exposure, but can get rather brsik as well, but is not nearly as high altutude so it stays sppr4eciably warmer. As does Mt Potosi (another area with some manufactured routes--but awesomely great alpine limsetone cragging!).


Edited by feck (10/10/04 08:06 PM)

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#13247 - 10/11/04 12:51 AM Re: Red Rocks guide book
Brian_Phillips Offline
stranger

Registered: 10/18/01
Posts: 13
Loc: Rhode Island
"Red Rocks Select" Chockstone Press by Todd Swain covers both trad and sport routes.

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#13248 - 10/11/04 01:36 PM Re: Red Rocks guide book [Re: Arms]
learningtolead Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/16/02
Posts: 981
Loc: a wanna be kerhonkson-er
Quote:

There is "Red Rocks Sport Climbing Guide by Jared McMillen" but I don't know how good it is.




I bought this book and was fairly unimpressed. It seems quite limited in scope. That being said, I prefer trad climbing so I may not be the best judge. It was available in the RR visitor center's gift shop if you decide to pick it up while you're out there.

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#13249 - 10/11/04 02:31 PM Re: Red Rocks guide book [Re: Arms]
climbEEr Offline
member

Registered: 03/10/04
Posts: 110
Loc: Boston, MA
Quote:

The general guide by Todd Swain has sport and trad.




I have recently bought this guide book for a week long trip in november. Some of the members in my party don't lead trad and want to do some sport while we are out there. While the Swain guide does have both Trad and Sport climbs listed in it, determining if a routes is purely sport is somewhat difficult unless you read the complete description. He doesn't have a seperate listing showing sport climbs vs. trad climbs. (Some what frustrating when you are trying to ensure that everyone will have something to call their own.) I have also, in my research, found that supper-topos has a pretty decent book of some of the classic Red Rock Routes (Trad and limited sport). You may also want to check out this site they have a route database with descriptions of routes at Red Rocks: Climbing Red Rocks . When are you going out there?

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#13250 - 10/11/04 04:11 PM Re: Red Rocks guide book [Re: feck]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

Quote:

Are there as many manufactured holds at Clark and Charleston as rumor suggests?




In a word, yes.

But that does not mean that there are not a lot of natural routes as well, and in fact, the overwhelming majority of lines have not been "improved". There are many high quality lines, and mostly the best lines, that are completely au natural.




Thanks for the clarification. Listening to some folks I've heard would have you believe that every route has chisled and glued holds, including some bolted-on artificial holds.

Quote:

If one climbs 5.12 and up, it would be unwise to not hit Clark. Charleston has some more "moderates" (5.11 and under), but the real action is in the 5.12 and up grades. At these grades, one will find very few (but some!) tampered routes.

Also, I go on record as being against manufactured routes, and mostly avoid climbing them, but I try not to be overtly militant about it.



Yeah, it's one thing for someone to smooth off the sharp edge of a two-finger pocket; quite another to turn it into a three or four finger bucket. The first I don't have a real problem with, but outright creation of holds is beyond excessive. As far as climbing 12's, there are more than enough limestone 11's locally in American Fork that I can't do, thank you very much!
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