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#13516 - 11/09/04 06:27 PM Re: P'Kill ratings? [Re: strat]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2955
Loc: LI, NY
alright fine! you called me on it.
i have no idea what im talking about, i just think its hard.
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#13517 - 11/09/04 07:26 PM Re: P'Kill ratings? [Re: empicard]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
Is oops the one on the steep face a little left of center that is always sorta wet, green and slimy? Thin down low?

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#13518 - 11/09/04 07:38 PM Re: P'Kill ratings? [Re: Smike]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2955
Loc: LI, NY
yes.
really slimy, and really thin.
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tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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#13519 - 11/09/04 07:50 PM Re: P'Kill ratings? [Re: strat]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Quote:

Evan, What other 5.10's of a similar nature to Oops (steep face) have you been able to climb clean that makes you think Oops is accurately graded?




Excellent cross examination there counselor.

I will volunteer that Ooops is comparable to "Red Cabbage" with the right hand start. Steep, fingery, some long reaches. Both 10a-ish IMO.

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#13520 - 11/10/04 01:16 PM Re: P'Kill ratings? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
yorick Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1041
Loc: hamlet\'s hand
Quote:

I will volunteer that Ooops is comparable to "Red Cabbage" with the right hand start. Steep, fingery, some long reaches. Both 10a-ish IMO.




nice comparison, mike...

my point that these routes are soft is based on a pretty lousy on-sight record of 10s in the gunks...being older, fatter, and weaker, both oops and circuit breaker (on the breaker wall) yielded on-sights rather jauntily, about doubling my on-sight success on gunks 10s in one happy weekend...true to form, i blew the on-sight on motorcycle diaries, which felt stiffer than the other two, but is rated a letter grade easier, and feels comparable to an entry-level gunks 10 like criss cross direct...though i didn't lead it, floops felt every bit the mid-range 10, as does fickle fingers left of golden dream...oops and circuit breaker aren't in the same category...

i'd put them in there with the softest of 10a's, hang ten, and because they're very gear friendly, i'd submit they'd make great additions to the 'breaking into the grade' forum, where the peter's kill is quite under-represented...

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#13521 - 11/10/04 01:46 PM Re: P'Kill ratings? [Re: yorick]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2955
Loc: LI, NY
ok, now im extra confused. which one is floops and which is oops?
_________________________
tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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#13522 - 11/10/04 01:55 PM Re: P'Kill ratings? [Re: empicard]
yorick Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1041
Loc: hamlet\'s hand
of the three routes in the guidebook, arete is left, floops is middle, oops is right (though it's directly in the middle of the block)...
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Shongum ain\'t Indian,
it\'s Shawank-unk.

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#13523 - 11/11/04 10:15 PM Re: P'Kill ratings? [Re: caver]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
Quote:

Actually the ratings there are just not accurate, as some of the 5.10s should have letter grades such as Magic Mylil's (10c




I was on what was possibly the first ascent of Millil's Magic Arete and there's no way that route is 10c. My partner that day and I had discussions over whether it was 10a or just a really hard 5.9.


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#13524 - 11/11/04 10:20 PM Re: P'Kill ratings? [Re: GymClimbingPoser]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
Quote:

GRRRRR!
You had to bring up the PG-R rating on Welcome to the Gunks....
I did that and Turdland in the same day and I must say WTTG felt like a comfortable PG and Turdland made me crap my pants (it is given a PG).




Off topic ... but ... I think the difference in the pro rating on these routes has to do with the difficulty of the moves at the run-out sections in comparison with the overall grade. Turdland is 10a or 9+ depending on how you do the crux. The run-out section is 5.7. WTTG is 10a, but the run-out part is 5.9 -- and with a definite possibility of hitting the small ledge if you fall.

Having said that, I do agree the ratings feel reversed. On Turdland you "feel" more run-out than on WTTG. And on WTTG you can get a decent nut in a placement near the manky pin.

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#13525 - 11/12/04 03:05 PM Re: P'Kill ratings? [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
yorick Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1041
Loc: hamlet\'s hand
Quote:

[My partner that day and I had discussions over whether it was 10a or just a really hard 5.9.






wished i'd hopped on milil's instead of crack-a-lack...another blown on-sight, and perhaps, another check in the accurate grade column...but i'm pleased to report that that huge hornet's nest in the middle of the crux has been abandoned...anybody know if there are any holds hidden behind that thing?...
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it\'s Shawank-unk.

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