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#13555 - 11/09/04 11:39 PM *Nasty* Fixed Anchor on Tequila Mockingbird / Dry Martini
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
There is an incredibly manky fixed anchor midway to the GT on Tequila Mockingbird (I'm a little confused on exactly what pitch that corresponds to, but it's about halfway up the cliff).

It is comprised of two pitons (one of which appears solid, both are a bit rusty) equalized by a way-old 1" and a newer bit of Spectra. Both pitons bend under body weight. Also tied in is a mediocre small fixed nut, girth-hitched to the way-old 1" webbing only.

The whole thing makes really great squeaking noises, the pitons bend under body weight, and the rap from that point goes over a pretty sizeable roof (so there's a good bounce of force added).

To the "concerned locals" or whoever might look over these things: please, please chop it or bolt it.

One could make a decent argument for a pair of bolts up there. The rock above is fairly loose, and a pair of bolts would be consistent with other first-pitch bolts in the Trapps. Further, it might help to popularize these two really-fun climbs, since the anchoring situation is a rope-drag-mess overall.

Alternately, there are gear anchors, and one can either climb up to the GT, the clifftop, or the rap tree above Welcome to the Gunks.

In any case, that fixed mank is the worst I've seen in the Gunks. Please, please, someone, pay it some attention.

Thank you.

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#13556 - 11/10/04 01:38 PM Re: *Nasty* Fixed Anchor on Tequila Mockingbird / Dry Martini [Re: Julie]
irisharehere Offline
Site Supporter

Registered: 12/06/01
Posts: 1658
Loc: Danbury CT
If there's opportunities for decent gear placement nearby, no need for bolts at all, IMHO. Just chop the mank......

Irish
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#13557 - 11/10/04 01:45 PM Re: *Nasty* Fixed Anchor on Tequila Mockingbird / Dry Martini [Re: Julie]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
why would one stop there if you can continue up to the GT anyway?

i agree with the alien.
chop the mank.


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#13558 - 11/10/04 03:33 PM Re: *Nasty* Fixed Anchor on Tequila Mockingbird / Dry Martini [Re: Julie]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
then fix it yourself instead of crying about it. better yet instead of posting about tell Hank the ranger sheesh
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#13559 - 11/10/04 05:05 PM Re: *Nasty* Fixed Anchor on Tequila Mockingbird / Dry Martini [Re: talus]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
I would, but it's a little hard to do from San Diego, and I don't consider myself a "power that be" of the Trapps.

Plus, I have zero experience in removing pitons, so that's likely best left to someone with experience. The best thing seemed to be posting it, where a number of people, including Hank, can consider the issue. I do apologize if you were annoyed by my "crying" about it.

Though there are alternatives, I think a pair of bolts would serve well above what the guidebook describes as P2 of these routes. (Have you guys climbed these routes, and seen the rock above?) Arguments about gear availability can be made about almost every pair of bolts in the Gunks, after all.

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#13560 - 11/10/04 05:10 PM Re: *Nasty* Fixed Anchor on Tequila Mockingbird / Dry Martini [Re: Julie]
irisharehere Offline
Site Supporter

Registered: 12/06/01
Posts: 1658
Loc: Danbury CT
Well, you did say there were gear opportunities!!!!

I haven't seen what the rock there is like, but I think it would be out of line with the standards at the Gunks to install new bolts just because the gear placements might be marginal. No need to bolt just 'cause its R or X quality stuff.

All the above is just my take on it though. Feel free to disagree!

Irish
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I didn't spend nine years in Evil Graduate School to be called "Mr Irish", thank you!

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#13561 - 11/10/04 05:30 PM Re: information on anchors [Re: talus]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
I think its perfectly appropriate to post about anchor problems here. A lot of people read this who don't post, and some of them, like Tico, have been known to replace or remove anchors.

I know that I've ripped some garbage off as a public service after reading posts here, and I am sure that I'm not the only one...

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#13562 - 11/10/04 05:37 PM Re: information on anchors [Re: crackers]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
long live tico!
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tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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#13563 - 11/10/04 08:16 PM Re: *Nasty* Fixed Anchor on Tequila Mockingbird / Dry Martini [Re: irisharehere]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Well, you did say there were gear opportunities!!!!

Really, you'd have to climb TM to see what I mean (and you should, it's wild and highly understarred). It wanders a bit, and pulls in/out of roofs enough that 70 feet are, and pretty much need to be, separated into 2 pitches (Dry Martini wanders even more). Then, directly above P2 there is no gear - once you either pull a roof or the bulge with the ring-bolt, you have to traverse right ~15 feet to the mank in question. A pair of bolts right above P2, where there is no gear, would do the route some well-deserved justice - both by providing a real anchor and by reducing a rope-drag mess considerably. Or you can spend 3 (or 4) pitches just to get to the GT on loose 5.2 ... not very attractive.

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#13564 - 11/10/04 09:13 PM Re: *Nasty* Fixed Anchor on Tequila Mockingbird / Dry Martini [Re: irisharehere]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

I haven't seen what the rock there is like, but I think it would be out of line with the standards at the Gunks to install new bolts just because the gear placements might be marginal. No need to bolt just 'cause its R or X quality stuff.




It's not so much being R/X. It's just that after the difficulties the routes rapidly degenerate into disagreeable, lichenated, vegetated, chossy, unpleasant 5.easy. Yes, a bolted anchor there would be pure convenience, but it's hardly like it's without precedent: Never Never Land, Absurdland, Triangle, V-3, Farewell to Arms all have upper pitches that aren't worth doing and thus have permanent anchors.
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