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#13873 - 12/24/04 10:39 PM Route recommendations - update
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
Under the "Climb" button we have some lists of recommended routes. Since we're now heavily into the winter most-talk-about-'em phase of the climbing year, I thought it would be nice to add to the lists.

Just as a reminder the four groupings are

 Breaking into the Grade

 Hidden Gems

 Must Do Routes

 Test Pieces

Think of the must-do routes as ones that, if someone were visiting for a week or more, it would be a shame for them to have not done these routes.

Breaking into the grade is self-explanatory; they shouldn't be hard for the grade, but needn't be easy. They should, though, be safe for someone who's struggling with the moves. Good gear for the crux is a must, and easy gear is a plus.

Test pieces are those routes which, if you've led them, you're certainly ready to break into the next grade. (They may even be routes that you hold off on, when you are breaking into the next grade.)

The notion of hidden gems should be self-explanatory too, but I'll start us off with some discoveries I made this year:

5.5 Double Chin - really nice, interesting climbing, right at the Uberfall. A little run-out down low, but all the hard moves are well protected.

5.9 Lower Eaves - this is the corner of the low roof just next to Horseman. The crux is a totally G pump-a-hang, followed by nice Walter-Middy-ish face climbing above. Another overlooked Uberfall gem.

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#13874 - 12/24/04 10:54 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: Steven Cherry]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Roseland belongs on the list somewhere, perhaps under Breaking into the Grade. It's one of the few fairly continuous and G rated 5.9's in the Gunks, and it's a very high quality pitch.

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#13875 - 12/29/04 03:50 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: Steven Cherry]
yorick Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1041
Loc: hamlet\'s hand
5.9 - Good Friday Climb: a not so hidden, hidden gem and solid test piece that doesn't make it onto tick lists, probably because it's an easy toprope from Eastertime Too - but it's so worth saving for the on-sight. A thin, arcing crack and face with tricky, thoughtful gear, especially at the crux, where that widening crack that looks so good for a placement means you lose a critical hold. Sustained from the git-go.

From the Peter's Kill:

Must Do
5.9 - Golden Dream: the P' Kill's Ant's Line. You'll wish it continued for a thousand feet.

Breaking into the Grade
5.10 - Oops. Probably not the mid-range 10 the guidebook suggests, which makes it a wonderful entry level route for those looking to advance from the 9s. Good gear, a low crux, and pumpy jug-hauling all the way to the anchors.

5.10 - Circuit Breaker. A furious primer on plug & chug. Another soft 10, but another great entry route. You'll feel like Clint Eastwood, hip-shooting for gear from steep, crisp edges, until you're stopped dead by the abrupt, what the f*ck exit.


_________________________
Shongum ain\'t Indian,
it\'s Shawank-unk.

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#13876 - 12/30/04 01:19 AM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: yorick]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
Not doing Peterskill, sorry.

On Good Friday Climb, is it fair to call the gear PG-R, or would you say PG?

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#13877 - 12/30/04 03:31 AM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: Steven Cherry]
hangdog Offline
stranger

Registered: 12/30/04
Posts: 24
Loc: The Gunks
Breaking into the grade:
5.2 Twin Oaks-Straight forward if you don’t get your knee jammed into the widening crack as I saw one guy do.
5.5 Triple Bulges- Great face climbing with short but fun cruxes. Start out on Finger Locks and you have the best most continuous 5.5 climbing in the Gunk’s. -And G rated all the way.
5.8 Arrow- Only one move at the grade but the overall climb requires solid 6/7 climbing and a cool head. The run out on the third pitch should be noted even though it should be no problem for a 5.7/8 leader.

Must Do:
5.7 Te Dum- A Nears Classic with fun varied climbing an exciting crux and a great belay in an open book. The final pitch is much easier but very nice.
5.7 Strictly from Nowhere- Classic linkup with Shockley’s for great sustained climbing
5.8 Snooky’s Return- The first pitch should be on every climber tick list. Great thin face/crack for the grade.

Hidden Gems:
5.5 RMC-Good climbing at the grade.
5.6 Son of a Bitchy Virgin-Protection is difficult especially on the upper third of the second pitch, a big steep wall for the grade, I really liked this climb but should have a PG/R rating
5.7 Cakewalk- Varied climbing, a surprisingly good pitch.
5.6 Wrist- Three distinctly different pitches. Fair face climbing on the first pitch leads to a committing layback (bring a large cam) on the second. The third pitch is a wild hand traverse around an overhang leading to a clean white face.
5.8/8+ Moxie- Great climbing if you can find it. If you do the direct start (instead of diagonal from the left) fairly sustained. The open book is a challenge for the 5.8 leader and tricky to protect.

Test Piece:
5.7+ CCK
This one should really be in this category. The route finding on the second pitch alone requires thoughtful, careful climbing or the seriousness increases. In fact the safest variation is 5.8 so maybe it should be in the Must do section for 5.8.



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#13878 - 12/30/04 01:03 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: Steven Cherry]
yorick Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1041
Loc: hamlet\'s hand
Quote:

On Good Friday Climb, is it fair to call the gear PG-R, or would you say PG?




both guidebooks suggest PG, and i've taken falls at the crux without ripping gear...i don't think the gear is any worse than it is on a comparable climb like higher stannard, but it may be a bit tougher to place...you just need to be solid in the grade, hence the test piece suggestion (swain calls it 9+)...
_________________________
Shongum ain\'t Indian,
it\'s Shawank-unk.

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#13879 - 12/30/04 04:06 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: pedestrian]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Quote:

Roseland belongs on the list somewhere, perhaps under Breaking into the Grade. It's one of the few fairly continuous and G rated 5.9's in the Gunks, and it's a very high quality pitch.




I definitely would not consider RL a "breaking into the grade" climb. More of a "must do". Of the five 5.9s I've done at the Gunks (RL, Maria Direct, Dirty Gerdie, MF, and Ant's Line) RL was physically the hardest for me. Of the five of them, it has the most sustained 5.9 climbing.

"must-do" 5.9 - Roseland and MF get my votes.

By the way, is there a consensus grade for The Dangler? If it's 5.9, then I'd add it to the list of "must-do" 5.9s.

GO

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#13880 - 12/30/04 04:20 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: Steven Cherry]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Hidden Gems: I'd add CC Route. I really enjoyed this route. Bring the biggest cam you got.

GO

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#13881 - 12/30/04 04:21 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: hangdog]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
Quote:

5.5 Triple Bulges- Great face climbing with short but fun cruxes. Start out on Finger Locks and you have the best most continuous 5.5 climbing in the Gunk’s. -And G rated all the way.



i really dont know if i can agree with triple bulges being G rated. gear when you need it, but i recall going a good 25-30 feet off the ledge before getting in any gear.
easy climbing, and after that its fine, but thats along way to go to be considered G, no?
_________________________
tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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#13882 - 12/30/04 04:30 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: Steven Cherry]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Another 5.6 testpiece: Moonlight. Most scared I've ever been on a 5.6. RR put it well when he said about Moonlight that "It's everything High E is cracked up to be."

GO

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