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#14003 - 02/18/05 04:31 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: Frank Florence]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Right you are! Bonus questions: 1) Who was the Dick of Dick's Prick? 2) There is a 5.8 variation to the last pitch of Northern Pillar called Cemetary Gates. Where did this name come from? 3) Who did the first all nut ascent of Never Never Land? He also did not clip the bolt or the pins.

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#14004 - 02/18/05 05:31 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: Dana]
MurphysLaw Offline
gumby

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
1) Dick Hirschland. (sp?)

Dick's Prick is HARD.

Should be in the most sandbagged 5.6's list - it gave me pause, and I was only following it.
No good gear for a while, poor awkward (very non-Gunk's-like) holds, and then when you finally get some gear, you've already blown yer wad, since it's over so quick

"I'm sure that happens to *all* the routes...."
_________________________
"Flailing?" "Flail on!"

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#14005 - 02/18/05 05:55 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: Dana]
oenophore Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5968
Loc: 212 land
2) There is a 5.8 variation to the last pitch of Northern Pillar called Cemetary Gates. Where did this name come from? 3) Who did the first all nut ascent of Never Never Land? He also did not clip the bolt or the pins.

2) A Llanberis route. (The Gunks route is Cemetery Wall.)
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#14006 - 02/18/05 07:52 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: oenophore]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2468
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Dave craft did the first free ascent of Never Never Land; Art Gran did the first ascent but used the bolt as an aid point. Dave's ascent occurred before nuts arrived in the U.S., so he most certainly did clip the bolt and pins.

I don't know who did the first all-nut ascent, but of course Stannard would be a good guess.

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#14007 - 02/18/05 08:21 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: rg@ofmc]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

I don't know who did the first all-nut ascent, but of course Stannard would be a good guess.



I'm 95% certain it was Stannard. The story that I was told was that John's belayer was poised in a runner's stance, facing downhill. There was a third person acting as spotter, watching John and directing the belayer when to let out rope. If Stannard were to fall, the spotter would yell 'run' to the belayer who would then lock the rope and take off downhill, as the highest nut was still too low to prevent groundfall from the crux unless a lot of rope was removed from the system.

Somewhere buried in the basement is the issue of The Eastern Trade where John listed all the FCA*'s that had taken place and the associated perpetrator. I should search for it. The only other one I specifically remember is Peter Rossi's first all-nut ascent of Arrow.

*FCA = first clean ascent
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- Marc

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#14008 - 02/18/05 09:30 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: MarcC]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2778
Loc: Gardiner, NY
wow, Peter Rossi! He moved back to New Paltz recently. He hasn't climbed for quite a few years... but I guess he used to allright...
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#14009 - 02/18/05 10:41 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: phlan]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2468
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Quote:

The only other one I specifically remember is Peter Rossi's first all-nut ascent of Arrow.




Stannard may not have done it first, but he did make a winter all-nut ascent of the Arrow in mountain boots...

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#14010 - 02/19/05 12:41 AM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: rg@ofmc]
Mark Heyman Online   content
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1123
Loc: South Jersey (Pinelands)
Stannard may not have done it first, but he did make a winter all-nut ascent of the Arrow in mountain boots...

Spoken like..ah..oh never mind.

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#14011 - 02/19/05 01:33 AM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: Mark Heyman]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Stannard did the first all nut ascent of Never Never Land, supposedly in symbolic protest against the piton Ivan Rezucha used on the FA of Star Action.

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#14012 - 02/19/05 02:07 AM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: Dana]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
1) There's a climb in the Near Trapps called L.P. What do those initials stand for? 2) What was the original name of the climb Swinging Cunt? (trick question) 3) Why did McCarthy and Williams call their Near Trapps climb Generation Gap? 4) Two first ascents in the 'Gunks have involved a well known author. Who is he? 5) There are two climbs in the 'Gunks that are named with boxing in mind. Which ones? 5) The climb Un-Appealing Ceiling was once known by another name. What was it? And aside from a climb at the 'Gunks, what else (hint: comedy) was once known by this name? 6) There is a climb called Glypnod. What is a glypnod? And finally, (this one isn't fair), what did John Stannard say when he first saw Friends?

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