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#13883 - 12/31/04 03:04 AM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: GOclimb]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Quote:

By the way, is there a consensus grade for The Dangler? If it's 5.9, then I'd add it to the list of "must-do" 5.9s.

GO




In a word...no.

I also do not feel Triple Bulges is G rated. The steepish face at the start of P2 has significant ledgefall potential.

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#13884 - 01/01/05 02:50 AM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: Steven Cherry]
Daniel Offline
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
Now that I've gotten some 5.8s under my lead belt . . . .

Two Must Do routes:

Annie Oh! Move for move, p2 gets my vote for the best climbing at the grade so far. Starts off easy, then throws a puzzle at you, then a few moves to very different puzzle, then several more feet to something still harder... one harder and more interesting spot after another to an amazingly sweet crux-exit move. One of the few climbs that made me whoop when I finished it! And I didn't find the gear on p2 particularly worrisome. P1 is another matter, very runout at the bottom and still a little sparse where it gets harder towards the top; might be better off doing p1 of Three Doves or Limelight to avoid 5.5ish R-X climbing.

Modern Times. I think it's the High Exposure of the 5.8s: other climbs may have more consistent moves at the grade, but the crux is tremendously committing and tremendously exposed. The sustained overhangs force a balance between being deliberate enough not to blow the move and the urge to power through before pumping out. Certainly provides a well-deserved feeling of accomplishment as you catch your breath on top! And if the leader falls, it should be all air on good gear. (And if the second falls, it's time to break out the prussiks!) I think most people would say it's a must-do that's also a testpiece.



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#13885 - 01/01/05 03:37 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: hangdog]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Quote:

Breaking into the grade:
5.2 Twin Oaks-Straight forward if you don’t get your knee jammed into the widening crack as I saw one guy do.




Yeah, but don't bother with the second pitch.

Quote:

5.5 Triple Bulges- Great face climbing with short but fun cruxes. Start out on Finger Locks and you have the best most continuous 5.5 climbing in the Gunk’s. -And G rated all the way.




Well, 5.5G except for the 5.3X runout in the middle... not recommended for the 5.5 leader.

Quote:

Test Piece:
5.7+ CCK
This one should really be in this category. The route finding on the second pitch alone requires thoughtful, careful climbing or the seriousness increases. In fact the safest variation is 5.8 so maybe it should be in the Must do section for 5.8.




Debatable? The original route may be protected better than the way many people seem to do it.

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#13886 - 01/01/05 09:06 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: pedestrian]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2954
Loc: LI, NY
on the subject of triple bulges,
Quote:

Debatable? The original route may be protected better than the way many people seem to do it.



where?
_________________________
tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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#13887 - 01/02/05 09:35 AM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: empicard]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Quote:

on the subject of triple bulges,
Quote:

Debatable? The original route may be protected better than the way many people seem to do it.



where?




That part was about CCK not Triple Bulges. Search for the extensive CCK threads from a few months ago.

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#13888 - 01/03/05 02:06 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: Steven Cherry]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
breaking into the grade: first pitch of three doves to second pitch of annie oh!

good easy climbing with opportunity to build anchors with tri cams or nuts or aliens right underneath the crux so you get a clean fall if you blow it.

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#13889 - 01/03/05 05:40 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: crackers]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
I will second the P2 Annie Oh! "must do" recommendation. Phenomenal climbing on steep, clean rock, with a puzzling exit move. But I'd recommend getting to it via P1 of Three Doves or Limelight.

As for Te Dum, I also think it's a great "must do" for the grade, but would strongly recommend doing it in one pitch. No need to belay at the little tree.
_________________________
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#13890 - 01/03/05 07:58 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: crackers]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Quote:

breaking into the grade: first pitch of three doves to second pitch of annie oh!

good easy climbing with opportunity to build anchors with tri cams or nuts or aliens right underneath the crux so you get a clean fall if you blow it.




I think that pitch 2 of Annie Oh has fantastic climbing on it, but to reccomend this for breaking into the grade is a really bad idea. I assume that you are speaking of 5.8. In the first place I have seen this pitch as 8+ in several places. Additonally the climbing is not all that easy for 5.8 in several places. When you come up to the base of the large flake there is a a good bit of loose rock there, its not going anywhere but could be quite disconcerting for the new 5.8 leader. In addition the moves up and over the right side of the large flake are not all that easy or straight foward. Then you have a good little run out up a thin face before you reach the final move which is no gimme by a longshot. A great route, interesting and exciting moves to be sure, but not for a first 5.8 by any stretch, its neighbor Arrow is far more suited for that purpose.

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#13891 - 01/03/05 08:03 PM Re: Route recommendations - Annie Oh! [Re: Coppertone]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
I really am not to be trusted on some grades. I can't really tell the difference between 8 and 8+. Lets call the second pitch of Annie Oh! a must do rather than a first do then...

Is the first pitch of Three Doves a good intro to the grade then?


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#13892 - 01/03/05 08:09 PM Re: Route recommendations - Annie Oh! [Re: crackers]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Quote:

I really am not to be trusted on some grades. I can't really tell the difference between 8 and 8+. Lets call the second pitch of Annie Oh! a must do rather than a first do then...

Is the first pitch of Three Doves a good intro to the grade then?






I'm not any good at telling 5.7, from 5.8+ either, but I'm pretty sure that if I was on Annie Oh as my first 5.8 I would really scared. If I remember correctly I think that either the first pitch of Snookys or Arrow were my first 5.8 and they were very comfortable.

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