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#13893 - 01/03/05 08:13 PM Re: Route recommendations - Annie Oh! [Re: Coppertone]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
Annie Oh! was my first trad lead.

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#13894 - 01/03/05 08:36 PM Re: Route recommendations - Annie Oh! [Re: crackers]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Quote:

Annie Oh! was my first trad lead.



Thats a great first lead, but you obviously did not work you way up through grades, You must have been climbing strong already. For someone who has worked through 5.6 and 5.7 and been challenged on the way I would think they would want a more mellow climb to start 5.8 on.

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#13895 - 01/03/05 08:58 PM Re: Route recommendations - Annie Oh! [Re: Coppertone]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
I did work my way up thru the grades...just didn't start with the gunks myth/different grades.

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#13896 - 01/03/05 09:29 PM Re: Route recommendations - Annie Oh! [Re: crackers]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2955
Loc: LI, NY
Quote:

I did work my way up thru the grades...just didn't start with the gunks myth/different grades.




huh?
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tOOthless

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#13897 - 01/04/05 02:44 AM Re: Route recommendations - Annie Oh! [Re: empicard]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
add pitch 1 of Son of Easy -O to a good break in for 5.8. Little bit of the typical gunks boulder move at the bottom but G pro all the way. I also think Annie-O is way stiff to break into 8s.

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#13898 - 01/04/05 03:51 AM Re: Route recommendations - Annie Oh! [Re: chip]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
I don't know, Annie Oh! was my first and thus far only 5.8. I just did it on Saturday and although I placed a #!%$load of gear, it didn't seem particularly run out or anything?? And there is plenty of easy gear to place just before the scary loose flake and before the exit move. It depends on the type of climbing that suits you, I suppose - recall that the first time I did it by accident I thought it was a 5.4 and didn't really know the difference until someone told me so after it was done. On the other hand, I simply can't at the moment see myself ever leading, say, Something Interesting despite it being a grade or so lower, simply because of the more vertical nature of the climb. Hell, I can't see myself leading High E because I'm afraid I'll pump out.
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#13899 - 01/04/05 03:55 AM Re: Route recommendations - Annie Oh! [Re: Aya]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2955
Loc: LI, NY
right when you think youre going to pump out and blow it its over.
YMMV.
_________________________
tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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#13900 - 01/04/05 04:33 AM Re: Route recommendations - Annie Oh! [Re: Aya]
Allenperry Offline
member

Registered: 02/11/03
Posts: 195
Loc: Reading, Pennsylvania
Quote:

I don't know, Annie Oh! was my first and thus far only 5.8. I just did it on Saturday and although I placed a #!%$load of gear, it didn't seem particularly run out or anything?? And there is plenty of easy gear to place just before the scary loose flake and before the exit move. It depends on the type of climbing that suits you, I suppose - recall that the first time I did it by accident I thought it was a 5.4 and didn't really know the difference until someone told me so after it was done. On the other hand, I simply can't at the moment see myself ever leading, say, Something Interesting despite it being a grade or so lower, simply because of the more vertical nature of the climb. Hell, I can't see myself leading High E because I'm afraid I'll pump out.




Do you have schizophrenia?
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#13901 - 01/04/05 03:01 PM Re: Route recommendations - Annie Oh! [Re: Allenperry]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
I think P1 of Boldville would be a good "Breaking Into the Grade" climb for 5.8. I actually found it pretty strenuous, but the gear is super plentiful, and the moves are great! You get the burly-ish pull over the initial hang, then the big arching crack, where you can milk the jams, using fairly delicate smears, then the tricky, balancy move right onto the face, and the finishing move to the fixed anchor. All falls would be clean. Really nice climbing that I'd recommend to anyone.
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#13902 - 01/04/05 06:49 PM Re: Route recommendations - update [Re: Steven Cherry]
chazman Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/07/02
Posts: 944
I'm not sure where to log these (maybe Hidden Gems?) but the first pitches of Face to Face and No Glow are nice long moderates in their own right (if you're not up for leading the upper pitches like myself )

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