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#14041 - 12/30/04 04:26 PM Bonnie's Roof Direct question
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
I'm interested in doing Bonnie's Direct. But my guidebook (the black Dick) doesn't mention it by name. It mentions a variation to P2, which it calls 10-:
Quote:

Walk right, climb up to a crack, clear the overhang, and move up to another overhang. Then step left and follow a crack to the top.



Is that the direct variation? Sounds like it might be.

Thanks!

GO

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#14042 - 12/30/04 05:38 PM Re: Bonnie's Roof Direct question [Re: GOclimb]
Daniel Online   content
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
It sure sounds like Bonnie's Direct to me. My only clarification would be that "step left" means traverse left around the right facing corner under the second overhang (at least that's my recollection).

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#14043 - 12/30/04 08:05 PM Re: Bonnie's Roof Direct question [Re: Daniel]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
My recollection is the same as Daniel's.

I think the consensus is that it isn't as hard as 10-, by the way. The black Williams book is pretty confusing on this point, but I think the thinking now is 8+ for the first pitch, 7+ for the regular finish, and solid 5.9 for the direct finish. Those are certainly the numbers I'd give.

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#14044 - 12/30/04 11:43 PM Re: Bonnie's Roof Direct question [Re: Steven Cherry]
feck Offline
member

Registered: 08/22/04
Posts: 133
Loc: Accord, NY
Quote:

My recollection is the same as Daniel's.

I think the consensus is that it isn't as hard as 10-, by the way. The black Williams book is pretty confusing on this point, but I think the thinking now is 8+ for the first pitch, 7+ for the regular finish, and solid 5.9 for the direct finish. Those are certainly the numbers I'd give.





Those are good Gunky sandbaggy grades that fit well with the other grades in the area.

What I mean by this is: If one has some level of familarity with the route, finds the right sequences, jigs and jags at all the right little places, discovers gunks rest (many times tricky), uncovers all the subtle nuances of gunks climbing, then yup, those grades are right on.

For the first time Visitor or casual Gunkster I think the climb is solid 5.9 and the roof variation is 10a. Maybe even a little tougher if under 5'6"

Just my 10 cents.


Edited by feck (12/30/04 11:44 PM)

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#14045 - 12/31/04 03:56 AM Re: Bonnie's Roof Direct question [Re: feck]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
For the first time Visitor or casual Gunkster I think the climb is solid 5.9 and the roof variation is 10a. Maybe even a little tougher if under 5'6"

The first move is easier if taller, but the move after that is easier if shorter.

I easily onsighted p2, which is proof enough that it isn't 10a. It helps to know how to jam.

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#14046 - 12/31/04 05:04 AM Re: Bonnie's Roof Direct question [Re: Steven Cherry]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
who cares if its 9plus or 10minus

its really good....

go for it....the gear is good

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#14047 - 12/31/04 12:46 PM Re: Bonnie's Roof Direct question [Re: schwortz]
yorick Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1041
Loc: hamlet\'s hand
the gear's great, the locks and jugs are superb, the exposure is out of this world, and it's over way too quickly...could be the best short pitch in the gunks...
_________________________
Shongum ain\'t Indian,
it\'s Shawank-unk.

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#14048 - 12/31/04 05:59 PM Re: Bonnie's Roof Direct question [Re: yorick]
Daniel Online   content
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
...and I wouldn't miss the regular 5.7 finish either: also great exposure, over way too quickly. I thought it was a terrific all-too-short pitch, just as good as the Direct for its grade. Plus I got a really good photo out of it which I can use to scare the rest of my family.

So do the Direct, but then come back and do the regular finish too!

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#14049 - 12/31/04 06:17 PM Re: Bonnie's Roof Direct question [Re: Steven Cherry]
piglet Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/06/01
Posts: 384
Loc: Long Island
Just make sure you can get your fingers out of the jam that is in about the middle of the roof. I got my left hand stuck there for a couple of minutes. Long enough for my arms to start to shake, my feet to slip and thoughts of how ridiculious the rescue would be to run through my head. I'm glad I was just following and could wuss out. If your partner can't follow the direct finish they can traverse out right to easier climbing and then move left to get the gear in the crack above the roof
_________________________
Thought is the ruler's chief enemy - Napoleon

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#14050 - 01/01/05 10:22 PM Re: Bonnie's Roof Direct question [Re: piglet]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
Cool. Thanks everyone for the feedback. I'll give it a shot (in the spring).

GO

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