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#14102 - 01/13/05 02:21 AM Ski waxing
rocks Offline

Registered: 09/27/04
Posts: 4
I have a few questions on waxing your skis.

First off, how do you know when your skis need to be rewaxed? I ski every weekend and I've read that skis need to be rewaxed every couple of trips.

Also, if you wax your own skis, how do you do so? Do you use the rub on stuff or do you melt it on? Which is better?

Lastly, if you apply the wax by melting it, can you use any old iron or do you have to use one of those specialty ones?

I know I am asking a lot, but any information would be greatly appreciated.


#14103 - 01/13/05 02:56 AM Re: Ski waxing [Re: rocks]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
I have a beater iron from a yard sale. At the beginning of each season I drip wax onto the skis/board and iron it flat. Then scrape it smooth with a plastic scraper or old credit card. I'd only do it more often if I were racing, but I only log <10 days/year so YMMV.

#14104 - 01/13/05 02:41 PM Re: Ski waxing [Re: Mike Rawdon]
sohwhat Offline

Registered: 06/09/03
Posts: 242
Loc: 10001
i also use an old iron i found abandoned somewhere and a cheap plastic scraper. i rewax when i feel like my board isn't riding as well. i think when i was riding everyday, i probably waxed no more than once a month, but that was mostly because it was messy and a pain in the ass and i'm lazy.

if you're waxing yourself, remember to get a base cleaner (i like the dakine citrus stuff), it'll make it go on smoother. also, an end of season storage wax helps, too.

#14105 - 01/13/05 04:15 PM Re: Ski waxing [Re: rocks]
stimpy Offline
Site Supporter

Registered: 04/08/02
Posts: 243
Like Sowhat said, an orange based cleaner like CitraSolve works well to dissolve old wax. Then use a non-steam iron to drip wax all over the base, not too much though or your'e just wasting it. If the iron smokes, it's too hot. Then spread the wax into a thin film with the iron, but keep it moving so you don't overheat the ski. Then scrape ALL the wax off. Use a Sctchbrite scouring pad to finish with overlapping strokes from tip to tail.
An all conditions wax works well in the North East since that's what we get around here. A dry board will work relatively well on machine made snow, but wax will really help you glide in powder. No need to wax every time out.
Just another Mike on

#14106 - 01/13/05 04:48 PM Re: Ski waxing [Re: rocks]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
I used to keep a kit in the back of my car when I skied a lot; it's the northeast and ice, grass, dirt, rocks all take a toll on your skis. I suppose if you're out west skiing powder all year you probably don't have to wax much, but here I was waxing my skis every other trip.

Rub on costs more and doesn't last as long. They contain flouride to keep the wax soft; can't image it's good for the environment. On the other hand it is much easier to apply a touch-up coat w/o hauling out the full kit.

I had an old full sized iron, then switched to a small, cheap portable iron since it's just that much less to haul around. A heavy plastic scraper that's wider than your skis. Cork to buff down the surface. Rolls of newspapers; I just set the skis on the back of two chairs, lay down plenty of newspapers, then wax the skis (use the lowest heat setting). The newspapers went to building a fire later so it all worked out well. I leave the edges to the guys at the shop.

Oh yeah, use a permanent marker and write "HOT WAX ONLY" and "NOT FOR CLOTHES" on the iron... you don't want to use it accidentally.

#14107 - 01/13/05 06:36 PM Re: Ski waxing [Re: quanto_the_mad]
zachres Offline

Registered: 04/03/03
Posts: 495
Loc: In the midst of a "psychotic b...
I rewax my board, pretty much every time I go out, if I have the time.

Powder, crud, Sierra Cement, corn, resort-groomed.... it will all suck the wax out of your bases. If I'm on an overnighter in the backcountry or even longer, I also take a stick of DaKine rub-on, non-flouride wax that i use before every run. I like for my board to be especially slick when I'm dropping in on hairy lines.... more control, and if I'm earning my turns, i want them to be good. Also, if you have time, use a structuring brush or buffing pad to get that rub-on wax all the way into the patterns of your bases. This will make it last a little longer.

For hot waxing, I use Toko waxes, and I apply it with an old iron set to "wool"... like someone else said, it it's smoking, it's too hot. When I iron it in, I take enough time with it such that I can feel the heat coming through the other side of the board. Most of my boards have graphite bases, and this really helps to open up the pores. After scraping, I always use a structuring pad... counter-clockwise with the rough side, and clockwise, long strokes with the softer side.

Give me liberty, or give me death!

#14108 - 01/15/05 02:37 AM Re: Ski waxing [Re: zachres]
rocks Offline

Registered: 09/27/04
Posts: 4
Thank you to everyone who responded. I just waxed my skis tonight and they came out well. Although, tomorrow will be the real test.

Thanks again.

#14109 - 01/15/05 10:38 PM Re: Ski waxing [Re: rocks]
TimTheClimber Offline

Registered: 10/31/03
Posts: 187
Loc: New Paltz
Hope you have a good day out tommorow...

I purchased a wax kit a couple of years ago and it is till going strong. Actually, it is not very complicated, and I am happy with it's performance. It is basically a deoderant stic, but instead of deoderant, there is wax. You just apply strokes up and down the length of the ski. Attached to this is a sort of Brillo pad, and all you have to do is rub in circular motions up and down the ski. Each ski only takes about 3 minutes to do- and no meltin involved.


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