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#14361 - 03/06/05 04:32 AM How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s?
apsmith Offline
stranger

Registered: 06/18/03
Posts: 4
Hi- This season i will be breaking into the .9s and easier .10s on lead.

I have been eyeing getting some micro-nuts. . . but i am also thinking that i might just be better off getting another green alien.

so my questions are-

1)how useful would micro-nuts be for leading .9s and easier 10s?

2) if they are useful then what would be the best to get for the gunks-
RPs?
HBs?
BD?
which sizes?

or what about a set of rock empire brassies for $30?
http://www.rockempire.com/catalog?category=cams#nuts

thanks

aaron


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#14362 - 03/06/05 02:51 PM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: apsmith]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1763
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
I like HB Offsets. I only carry sizes smaller than my regular nuts.

You don't often need them but they're great when you do.

Also, they weigh practically nothing.
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#14363 - 03/06/05 03:19 PM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: apsmith]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
Those look like the Trango brassies which, let me tell you, aren't micro-nuts. Just cause they're brass . . . I got the Trango brassies off the net without seeing them in real life and was very disappointed. They're the size of regular nuts, only awkwardly shaped and the nuts slide down the cables and stick so you have to fiddle them back into place when you want to place them. These are definitely not the same thing as the little HBs, for instance.

Whether you need micro-nuts or not, I don't know. Depends whether you trust them when you place them, I guess. Although they weigh practically nothing, there's not much point in carrying them if you don't trust them. Some of the larger sizes are just a different shape of a reasonably sized nut but the tiny, tiny ones are only psuedo-gear.

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#14364 - 03/06/05 06:58 PM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: apsmith]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2471
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
As Arms says, you don't use 'em all the time, but they are definitely worth having along. I find I place them pretty regularly from 5.8 up, and in spots you wouldn't be able to place a micro cam. The best strategy is to use them for overhead protection with double ropes so that you don't pay any penalty if the high tiny pro pulls. Screamers are probably a good idea.

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#14365 - 03/06/05 08:40 PM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: rg@ofmc]
paborden Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/18/03
Posts: 366
Loc: On the road...
I use mine all the time and carry a mixture of HB offsets and RPs. I have the BD ones as well, but find I don't use them nearly as much in the Gunks. Whatever you decide, they'll take a little getting used to -- but once you get the hang of them, you will place them plenty.

Rock and Snow allows you to mix and match any brands to make a set and still gives you the batch discount. Its a killer deal and how I bought mine.

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#14366 - 03/06/05 09:37 PM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: dalguard]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1763
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
". . . there's not much point in carrying them if you don't trust them"

Wether or not you trust a piece matters little if it's all you get. Lets face it, you don't place those little guys if there is something beefier nearby.

An exception would be as a directional--a common use for micros.
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#14367 - 03/06/05 11:07 PM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: Arms]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2471
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
When it comes to trust, I've always thought that micro cams are no more reliable than micro nuts, but I use both. To make Arms' point in a different way, the idea is to try to raise the probability that something will stop a fall.

In Gunks horizontal placements, if you can get in one micronut, you can often get in several and clip 'em all together. If you can place two and run each strand of a double through each, then each one only has to hold half the fall impact.

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#14368 - 03/06/05 11:12 PM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: apsmith]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
I generally always carry my HB offsets unless I am climbing something that I know and I don't need the gear. There are many 5.9' snd 5.10's at the gunks where the micros will come in handy. I use my HB's on Gunks routes such as Wasp, The Spring, Grand Central, Wegetables, Three Doves, Comando Rave, Never Neverland, Proctoscope, just to name a few routes in the range that you were asking about. You can keep 6 or 7 of these nuts on a biner and they weigh nothing, If you don't need them so what if you do need them you will be very happy to have them as they generally will fit where nothing else will.

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#14369 - 03/07/05 12:10 AM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: Coppertone]
apsmith Offline
stranger

Registered: 06/18/03
Posts: 4
thanks all for the information
it sounds like they would be useful for routes that are in my range

the rock and snow deal sounds great

and it confirms what i was thinking---more gear is always good

cheers

aaron

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#14370 - 03/07/05 01:59 AM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: rg@ofmc]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1763
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
I'm not Catholic but I often cross myself when placing micros; it might not help but what can it hurt.

Anyone recall stainless glue?

Dizz?
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