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#14371 - 03/07/05 02:13 AM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: Arms]
paborden Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/18/03
Posts: 366
Loc: On the road...
I second what RG said about RP 'nests' -- when it comes to micros, more is better.

Also, when I bought my set I picked up a screamer to go with them. People will debate me on this point, but when I clip micros or pins its usually with a screamer.

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#14372 - 03/07/05 01:35 PM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: paborden]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1763
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
What harm could a screamer do?
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#14373 - 03/07/05 02:56 PM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: Arms]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
my buddy unzipped several strands of a Screamer on the super-manky, upward-driven pin at the crux of On Any Monday. It was an onsight attempt, so you can bet he was glad to have it!
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#14374 - 03/07/05 03:23 PM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: nerdom]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

my buddy unzipped several strands of a Screamer on the super-manky, upward-driven pin at the crux of On Any Monday.



I'm not sure which I find more surprising - that the pin is still there or that it actually held a fall (even with the screamer).
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#14375 - 03/07/05 05:01 PM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: MarcC]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Quote:

Quote:

my buddy unzipped several strands of a Screamer on the super-manky, upward-driven pin at the crux of On Any Monday.



I'm not sure which I find more surprising - that the pin is still there or that it actually held a fall (even with the screamer).



That pin can be backed up with a bomber nut right next to it. Its a good stance there too as long as you can deal with that large pebble under your foot.

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#14376 - 03/07/05 06:23 PM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: paborden]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
Quote:

I second what RG said about RP 'nests' -- when it comes to micros, more is better.

Also, when I bought my set I picked up a screamer to go with them. People will debate me on this point, but when I clip micros or pins its usually with a screamer.




peter stop being a wuss or you can't climb with the demolition team this year
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#14377 - 03/07/05 06:37 PM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: apsmith]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
Micro nuts are fine, but you can never have enough green aliens!
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#14378 - 03/07/05 07:21 PM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: apsmith]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
As for brands, I've got the BD Micros, and I like them. But take this with a grain of salt, as I use them more on NH granite than I do on the Gunks.

Actually, my opinion is probably pretty worthless, since in addition to using them for NH granite more often than Gunks conglomerate, I also:
- Am only just breaking into Gunks 9s and 10s myself, and
- Only get to the Gunks maybe a half a dozen times a season.

So there's my $0.0002. Take it (or leave it) with a few grains of salt.

GO

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#14379 - 03/07/05 08:16 PM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: apsmith]
MurphysLaw Offline
gumby

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
HB offsets. They rule at the Gunks.

#5 is my personal wubbie. I have placed it so many times where other gear wouldn't go, I've lost track.
There are pitches where I've placed both #5's, and several of the other sizes too.
( I have doubles from 3-6, but this is admittedly overkill)
The #5 is to offsets, what the green is to Aliens.

Sizes #3-#6 are the 'real' gear, they are very strong and can hold a decent fall.

The smaller ones are good for oppositional pieces, or as headpieces maybe. (or for aid, if yer into that sorta thing)

You'd be surprised how often you can find a home for one on an 8 or 7 too; but for 9's and easier 10's (which is exactly where I'm at, or was at when I left off last yr) they are damn near indispensable IMHO.

Pick up #6, 5, 4, and 3 and a biner to rack 'em. You'll be glad ya did.

And don't bother with another green Alien, get a green/ yellow offset instead.
mmmmMMMMmmmmmm Alien offsets, mmmMMMMmmmmm

PS - edited to add: 2nd or 3rd of 4th the idea that a screamer ain't a bad idea either.... 'specialy on the smaller guys.
See attached for kN ratings:

no dims wt strength color price
inches gm kN lbf
0 .15 x .22 4 2.5 562 black $13.95
1 .15 x .31 4 4.5 1012 burgandy 13.95
2 .17 x .24 8 6 1350 red 13.95
3 .24 x .31 9 6 1350 orange 13.95
4 .28 x .37 13 8 1800 yellow 14.95
5 .31 x .43 16 7 1575 green 14.95
6 .38 x .51 24 10 2250 blue 14.95



Edited by MurphysLaw (03/07/05 08:25 PM)
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#14380 - 03/08/05 04:16 AM Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? [Re: MurphysLaw]
andrew Offline

Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
if you travel you'll really like the micronuts as well. many 9s and 10s in places like little cottonwood or eldorado canyon pretty much require them.
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