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#14619 - 03/21/05 09:56 PM Yosemite with the family
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2224
Loc: Gardiner, NY
I'm heading out to Yosemite in late August for a week .... but as a family vacation. My husband can TR 5.7 at the Gunks, and my kids (by then 8 and 11 years old) can TR easy 5.5-5.6 (if not overhanging or reachy). So since I'll be stuck with the family, can anyone recommend an area with easy 1 pitch climbing we can do? I can lead and set up TRs or suggest something with an easy approach to the top to set up TRs. Could perhaps go up a grade harder and let them play around/thrash as well. But I'll be doing all the ropegun work (hubby doesn't lead or set up anchors).

Hopefully I'll get to find someone I can escape with for a day and do some more substantial climbing (hint hint if any Yosemite locals are reading this).

Thanks!

Jannette

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#14620 - 03/21/05 10:35 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Jannette]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
There are a few areas that are friendly for those grades, but not the classic climbing that Yosemite is known for.

Swan Slabs has plenty of single pitch stuff. You can do a 5.6 to get a TR on Grants Crack, thin and somewhat soft 5.9, and two 5.10's to the right of it.

Over by the Yosemite Falls is a crack (name is eluding me) where its a friendly 5.7 crack and puts you at a point where you can TR Lazy Bum and Bummer (5.10d and 5.10c). To the left of it is a 5.8 (lemon something) and takes a red camalot at the corner of the undercling and then a yellow and blue camalot ... (sorry for the gear beta)

To the left of the falls is Munginella a soft 5.6 and to the right of it is Commitment, a one move 5.9 (mostly 5.7 moves) (but both climbs are 4 pitch climbs)

The most productive area you'll find is at Churchbowl where there are several climbs in the 5.4 to 5.9 range.

Sorry, I've moved from the area (and my vacations are set aside for the Tetons and a month in Nepal)otherwise I'd have shown you around.

Have fun.....

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#14621 - 03/22/05 02:15 AM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Jannette]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1763
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
There is a "guidebook" "Yosemite Topropes" by Rob Floyd. It has the above-mentioned Grant's Crack (Which the Mighty Arms has led) and a very few others.

The guidebook is $8.95 and about 1/16" thick. It includes icons that tell wether an area ia child friendly or not.

Pretty sad pickins'
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#14622 - 03/22/05 02:26 AM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Jannette]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1763
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
Sorry, as with everything anyone ever had a use for, this guide seems to be out of print.
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#14623 - 03/22/05 03:02 AM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Arms]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2224
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Arms, thanks for the book tip, I just found it on sale on http://www.lattaoutdoors.com and purchased it. Thanks!

Jannette

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#14624 - 03/22/05 05:20 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Jannette]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Don't forget to see the sights. Redwood groves, Tuolumne, Vernal & Nevada Falls, rafting trips on the Merced?

Clouds Rest is a great hike IF your kids have a long attention span for hiking. From the summit, you can see Half Dome, North Dome, El Cap, most of the valley, Tenaya Canyon & Lake, all sorts of Tuolumne domes, and neighboring mountain ranges.

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#14625 - 03/22/05 05:36 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Chas]
CrackBoy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
yup i second church bowl and swan slab area, plenty easy to set up TR's especially after you lead something. plus it shouldn't be too crowded since its tuolomne season. you probably could lead the first pitch of after 6 or after seven and drop a rope on that or walk over to some of the other variations ..but keep in mind this are some easier classics so there is usually a line of people who would take unkindly to a top rope party ..they are at manure pile buttress. i also think there are some harder lines to the left of them which you can walk up to.
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#14626 - 03/22/05 08:49 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Chas]
chazman Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/07/02
Posts: 944
Quote:

Over by the Yosemite Falls is a crack (name is eluding me) where its a friendly 5.7 crack and puts you at a point where you can TR Lazy Bum and Bummer (5.10d and 5.10c).



I agree with Chas with the exception of this one... if you mean Sunnyside Jamcrack (which I think you do) it's 5.9 and the lower 1/3 is about as polished as a fine diamond I wouldn't hop on it thinking its 5.7

My vote is the Church Bowl area, lots of fun moderate stuff. Bishop's Terrace is a must if you can keep the kids occupied while you run up a long single pitch. Have fun.

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#14627 - 03/23/05 01:14 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: chazman]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Seems likely to me that in late August (I'll be bringing my gang through in mid-August) you'll find some pretty warm weather. Combined with the incredible amount of polish on the popular one pitch routes, things can be way greased. Very pretty and easily approached are some bolted top rope areas in Tuolumne. The topography/scenery is quite different than the valley and a cool 1and 1/2 hour drive. Additionally, the climbing is generally of a slab nature on big crystals of feldspar, which is very reach friendly to kids. Approach time to Pothole Dome climbs is less than 15 minutes through open meadow and along the top of the dome.

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#14628 - 03/23/05 04:01 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: chazman]
intrepid02 Offline
Snarky Bastard

Registered: 06/24/02
Posts: 1421
Loc: Boulder
Have you thought about dragging your husband up Snake Dike (5.7)?

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#14629 - 03/23/05 04:52 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: intrepid02]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2224
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Have you thought about dragging your husband up Snake Dike (5.7)?

Are you offering to watch my kids while I climb with my husband? ;-)

Jannette

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#14630 - 03/23/05 05:25 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: chazman]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Sunnyside Jamcrack,... thats the name. The 5.9 is for the esecond pitch (which goes just above Bummer and Lazy Bum). It is very polished but if you have decent technique (hand jamming) it is easy 5.7. If you don't hand jam that well, then all bets are off.

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#14631 - 03/24/05 07:30 AM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Chas]
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
The above advice is all good, but please consider the "Gollum, Right Side" a 5.8 just right of the Nose of El Cap. It's not a far walk and not a bad climb, with great presence and power looming above. AND, they can always thenafter brag about having climbed on El Cap. Plus there's the easier option of "The Footstool" 5.2 or 5.8 just to the right. Both have great ledges for a picnic while soaking up the vibes. (There are some good 1 pitches left of the Nose but maybe a bit too tough)

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#14632 - 03/24/05 07:44 AM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Alex]
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
Oops, I reread your post. The kids might be too young for Gollum. But "The Footstool, Right" would be the ticket. It's just a bit harder than 5.2. Then you can toprope the 5.8 or the harder center routes.

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#14633 - 03/24/05 02:32 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Alex]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Remember that if you're going to do climbs at the base of El Cap, it is critical that everyone wears a helmet at all times. All kinds of stuff gets dropped off the walls all the time. While putting on his harness at the base of the Nose, my partner was hit with a short -thick Lost Arrow piton that was dropped by the party on The Shield, 15 pitches above. It gave a pretty nasty bruise on his arm. I've also found biners, food cans, other misc gear, a camera, and a boom box at the base of El Cap.
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#14634 - 03/24/05 02:44 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: MarcC]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1763
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
I found an exploded poop tube. Shards of PVC everywhere. The same day a bowlingball-size chunk came off the top. It made an impressive sound on the way down. I think something like that would just turn you into a red spray.
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#14635 - 03/24/05 05:16 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Jannette]
CrackBoy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
depending on the days you come out,, i may be able to coe down and rope gun a little for you if you wanted.. but my summer is a little booked right now (ie wedding, honeymoon, studying for qualifying exams) so i can't promise anything this far in advance.
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#14636 - 03/26/05 12:20 AM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: CrackBoy]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Snake dike is cool but not for the faint of heart. Even following the crux leaves one looking at a pretty impressive swing off an improbbable looking slab. The above pitches are all easy, fun and no gear between belay anchors on 5.4 terrain.
There are baby sitting services available in the valley.

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#14637 - 03/26/05 02:39 AM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: chip]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Are there some things were you can put your kids in a guided group climb (so they can meet other kids) while Jannette & hubby go do multipitch?

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#14638 - 03/26/05 09:36 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: pedestrian]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
The Awanechee (sp?) village and museum has some impressive courses for kids which go all day. Wish they would let me in!

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#14639 - 03/29/05 03:20 AM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: chip]
SkurdeyCat Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/14/03
Posts: 40
Loc: PA
Babysitting services in the Valley? Tell us more, I may need to replan a late year trip!

My son just laybacked his way INTO his crib this evening, mom didn't appreciate it when I got him to try again... gotta start em early.

Skurdey

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#14640 - 03/31/05 01:32 AM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: SkurdeyCat]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I know there is babysitting at the Awanee, but that might be a bit steep. I would call the Delaware North Companies, based in Fresno. They run most of the concessions, including Camp Curry, etc. You might also try the Mountaineering store. I thought I saw that a day camp was available at the Happy Isles area, which is also the start to some great hiking like to Half Dome. Good Luck.

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#14641 - 03/31/05 11:17 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: chip]
chazman Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/07/02
Posts: 944
Last trip we stayed at the Ahwahnee... hold on, I need a moment... sorry about that, but the trip prior we stayed at Yos Lodge and just called the Ahwahnee and got a sitter to have a nice quiet kid free dinner there. The girl came over to the lodge and watched the kids in our room and she was totally reasonable... and it was a great meal! I think getting a sitter for the day while you go out and multi-pitch could get costly but for a little alone time it's worth it.

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#14642 - 04/01/05 08:53 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: chazman]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1763
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
If you're wondering, Ahwahnee = $300/night.
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Arms

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#14643 - 04/02/05 05:07 AM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Arms]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2224
Loc: Gardiner, NY
We're staying in those tent cabins - we were happy to get any accommodations! However, with the money we saved on not staying at the fancier places, perhaps we can get ourselves some babysitting! Still isn't cheap, those tent cabins as $65 a day!

By the way, I got the Yosemite Topropes guidebook. For a place with that much rock, it's a teeny tiny guidebook. Sigh.

Jannette

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#14644 - 04/02/05 01:51 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Jannette]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1763
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
The tent cabins MAY be gone.
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Arms

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#14645 - 04/02/05 04:48 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Jannette]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

By the way, I got the Yosemite Topropes guidebook. For a place with that much rock, it's a teeny tiny guidebook. Sigh.



A testament to actually how little can be TR'd in the Valley. As you also may have noticed, there is relatively little for the sub-5.9 climber. Not to say that a climber at that level will not have a fun time - I/we could barely climb 5.9 on our first 2-week trip to the Valley and we still had a blast (got spanked a lot, too, but that's another story) - but it's amazing how many more options there are when you go there being able to handle mid-hard 5.10.
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#14646 - 04/03/05 12:01 AM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Arms]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2224
Loc: Gardiner, NY
The tent cabins MAY be gone.

They'd better not be, Yosemite happily took our money for reservations.

Jannette

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#14647 - 04/03/05 06:40 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Jannette]
onionman Offline
member

Registered: 07/09/01
Posts: 178
Another option is to sign the kids up for some of the YMS classes. The "Go Climb a Rock" classes I saw last summer were filled with kids. You might need to call YMS ahead of time, though, and check if they have any age restrictions. They might ask that a parent or guardian join the class, too, for very young kids. (Sorry I don't have great beta on that... our kid was only 10months at the time, so we left him at the lodge with Grandma.)

Good luck!

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#14648 - 04/03/05 07:21 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: onionman]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1763
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
Don't forget a "Go Climb a Rock" shirt. I wanted one ever since I saw Captain Kirk's. Remember that one? Kirk soloing El Cap?

"Beans and burbon, an explosive combination."
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Arms

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#14649 - 04/10/05 10:47 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Arms]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Regarding the sub-thread about stuff being dropped off of walls, here are two threads that are worth a read for the easily amused:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=67788#msg68198

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=104337#104337
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- Marc

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#14650 - 07/19/05 05:53 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Jannette]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2224
Loc: Gardiner, NY
OK, our Yosemite trip is planned, we'll be out there from Sunday August 7th to Fri August 12th. It will be hot, but that's when we're in California...will probably head to Tuolumne. Bought a book called "Tuolumne Topropes" which had some, albeit limited, climbing possibilities for us, including which areas were safe for kids to hang out around.

Was wondering if any west-coast gunks.com'ers or their friends are available to spend a day climbing for a day or two? I'd love a tour guide. I'd like to spend 1 or 2 days away from the family and doing multi-pitch and another day top-roping with the family. The rest of the week is for hiking and such... Any recommendations on where to find partners for Yosemite climbing? Last time I was there, I climbed for a day with the guy who answered the phone at the rock shop when I called to ask where to find partners.

Jannette

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#14651 - 07/26/05 06:48 PM Re: Yosemite with the family [Re: Jannette]
tradjunkie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 364
The climbing rangers are currently running 9am coffee on Sundays in Tuolumne instead of the Valley since it's too hot in the valley and all the climbers are camped up at Tuolumne. If it's still running on Aug 7, try there for a partner.
Also, people tend to put notes up at the store in Tuolumne.

I think you'll do better TRing with kids in Tuolumne than the valley anyway. There's a fair amount of moderate stuff.

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