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#16052 - 08/24/05 11:26 AM Hard Variations on Easier Routes
Chooch Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1184
Loc: South East PA
The Pic of Three Pines from the film festival site got me thinking.



What other cool, harder variations are there on the fairly easy routes?
I know I have done some 5.9 moves just off route on some 5.3 climbs, but Im not talking about routefinding mistakes. I'm looking for noteworthy pitches or variations.
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Charlie

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#16053 - 08/24/05 12:17 PM Re: Hard Variations on Easier Routes [Re: Chooch]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
Just did Maria Direct the other day, makes for a complete *** classic

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#16054 - 08/24/05 12:34 PM Re: Hard Variations on Easier Routes [Re: Smike]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
Disney Point (5.10a) variation to Disneyland. Way cool.
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we're all living proof that nothing lasts

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#16055 - 08/24/05 01:48 PM Re: Hard Variations on Easier Routes [Re: nerdom]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
Slightly Roddy is a bit harder than Roddy.

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#16056 - 08/24/05 03:15 PM Re: Hard Variations on Easier Routes [Re: dalguard]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I know Minty has a 5.5 or 5.6 variation to it's middle pitch. It goes right into a right facing corner. Also the last section of Frog's Head can stay right and go out a little steep face at 5.6. Lots of others. Yes Disney Point is a great variation to the 5.6. Makes it about 10a or so.

RR

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#16057 - 08/24/05 05:20 PM Re: Hard Variations on Easier Routes [Re: RangerRob]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

I know Minty has a 5.5 or 5.6 variation to it's middle pitch.



There's also the Minty Overhang variation on the last pitch - sandbag 5.5.

Cemetary Wall - 5.8 var to the last pitch of Northern Pillar (but feels harder 'cause of the creaky flakes and the hollow sound of what you're climbing on).

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#16058 - 08/27/05 03:55 PM Re: Hard Variations on Easier Routes [Re: Chooch]
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
There are 2 better variations to the ending of Yum Yum Yab Yum:
1. half way across the traverse pull the roof on jugs then up a small face. (might need cleaned of lichen) 5.6
2. instead of the traverse, continue up the big inside corner further until you can traverse left out a hanging face then up. 5.5

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#16059 - 08/27/05 04:33 PM Re: Hard Variations on Easier Routes [Re: Alex]
DollarBill Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/08/04
Posts: 56
Loc: Billerica, MA

After three pitches of Southern Pillar, 5.2 one star, instead of escaping out right, try the
arching corner left (if not wet), past the large overhang. 5.7 fourth pitch (to avoid bad
communications and rope management trouble).

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#16060 - 09/07/05 03:11 AM Re: Hard Variations on Easier Routes [Re: Chooch]
fear Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/27/03
Posts: 221
Loc: New England
Do the Hawkeye notch in the top of the Three Doves route. Instead of stepping right and around the roof at the top of the 2nd pitch, go left and through the wild notch. I came in from the left side(Red Pillar?) which sucks due to heinous rope drag.

I'd call it 10a without heinous rope drag but what the hell do I know...

Bomber #3 and #2 Camalot placement under the roof before you launch with a clean fall so give it a go.....

-Fear

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#16061 - 09/07/05 10:04 AM Re: Hard Variations on Easier Routes [Re: fear]
D75 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/18/05
Posts: 293
Loc: Holiday Inn Express
Quote:

I came in from the left side(Red Pillar?) which sucks due to heinous rope drag.
-Fear



Red Pillar goes up the grungy (grass, shrub, pine straw) right facing corner at far left end of that face. Broom helpful

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