I just spent a couple of days looking at that monster from the northwest side of the lake, but didn't get a chance to do any closer perusing. I know it's the beast for ice, but what are the rock routes like?

Wet?

(just a guess)

That's funny. I was just there this weekend as well. Probably just missed bumping into you. We did the Mt. Pisgah hike on the Eastern side of the lake. I thought I spotted a pair of bolts thru my binocs on a southeastern facing wall. Looked suitable for one good route.

-em

Well, rc has the following beta, and has recorded a 9 and a 10b.
...some good rock there. It is quite undeveloped, and potential exists for more lines, provided you want to spend the time cleaning them! The cliffs are fractured granite... worth a visit only if you are in the area.

Did someone say Ice? Oh wait…

I know there was some talk (from the owners of the land VT DEC? ) of Ice climbing being tolerated and allowed since it does not damage the natural environment, but that rock climbing access was suspect. At least thats what I heard, your results may vary.

Pretty much guarantee if it was to be a mecca for rock climbing, that it would have not gone unnoticed, but as for the person that values adventure over *** chalked upped routes, it may provide a wealth of opportunity. (Which is surprisingly abundant in the NE)

while it is probably the best ice climbing venue in the lower 48, rock climbing there is illegal. however, across the lake is fair game last I heard...
good luck getting beta, the locals are pretty stingy giving it out. Ed Webster put up a route there and can probably be found on-line or ask at NEClimbs.com (think its 5.11 and called the Great Dihedral or Book); I know there are a few others.

recent donations and workings with the local authorities and park people have allowed for rescue litters to be installed at a few locations at the base of the cliff.

hope this answers some of peoples' questions

That is funny, Evan. We were all water oriented: fly fishing, boating and swimming.

I've never heard a peep about the rock there, and I'm guessing it's because the Daks and New Hampshire are bigger draws. But I'm betting some sly hard-men have been in there for decades keepin it quiet, having the place to themsleves. That thing sees a lot of sun right up until dark comes down.

Someone mentioned a rock closure due to rare plant species.

I don't climb ice but was in that part of VT last year and saw some Ice Hounds. You dudes are nuts
Rock On!
Beth