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#16310 - 09/17/05 08:32 PM New Safe Harbor Guide Book
Beth Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/17/05
Posts: 5
I'm new to this site and this may be a long shot but does anyone here climb at Safe Harbor. I was out there recently and saw some dudes with a new guidebook for the place. I should have asked them but does anyone out there have one? If so could you photocopy one for me and either e-mail or send me it?

Keep on climbing


Beth


Edited by Beth (09/17/05 08:34 PM)

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#16311 - 09/17/05 10:44 PM Re: New Safe Harbor Guide Book [Re: Beth]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Reading "Safe Harbor" sparked a memory. This paragraph appears on the Access Fund site on the Pennsylvania Closures and Restrictions page:

Safe Harbor and Bellefonte Quarry are closed. Lancaster Climbing Club is working with the Lancaster County Park to get a climbing management plan in place and discourages climbing in Safe Harbor to help the effort.


I can only assume that this info is still accurate.
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- Marc

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#16312 - 09/18/05 01:28 PM Re: New Safe Harbor Guide Book [Re: MarcC]
Chooch Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1184
Loc: South East PA
Holy Crap.
Will people ever stop climbing there. Safe Harbor is closed and has been closed for years.
Climbers that go there only hurt access possibilities for the future.

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#16313 - 09/23/05 02:10 AM Re: New Safe Harbor Guide Book [Re: Chooch]
gunkie Offline
member

Registered: 07/19/00
Posts: 120
Loc: New Hope, PA
Safe Harbor was a nice area BEFORE the R&I guide was published circa 1992 [?]. Those guys really got some whiplash on that ego trip. I imagine the thinking went something like...

Douche Bag #1: I've saved my dope money for a year so we could buy some bolts, man.
Douche Bag #2: Cool dude! Chicks will dig us if we get a mini-guide published in one of those climbing rags!
Douche Bag #3: I just put that kick-ass 20 watt stero in my step dad's Firebird. We could blast that and put up some lines.
Douche Bag #1: Let's do this thing!
Douche Bag #3: Right on!

two years later...

Douche Bag #2: We fucked up dudes. Now every geek from Brooklyn to Richmond has decended on our little secret spot like locusts on corn.
Douche Bag #1: Yeah man, this is OUR spot. I'm going to get the neighbors to make some complaints to the cops. My half sister lives over the berm with her boy friend.
Douche Bag #3: My Yugo just dropped the pan. We need to walk home.

today...

Douche Bag #3: It's nice here now. Only our buds get to score the same 40' climbs over and over and over...
Douche Bag #2: Killer!
Douche Bag #1: Let's cut down some more trees.

-------------

Autumn Arch was a better climb without the bolts or crowds. And I wasn't Douche Bag #1 or #3

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#16314 - 09/25/05 09:32 PM Re: New Safe Harbor Guide Book [Re: gunkie]
Beth Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/17/05
Posts: 5
Mark and Chooch,

Thanks for your replies but safe Harbor must be open because a new guidebook just came out for the place. My bud Kasandra goes to Lehigh U. and has one she is going to copy and mail me.

She said the dude who did the guide is Todd Garcia and he is currantly selling the brand spankin new guidebook for Safe Harbor out of a climbing shop in the Lehigh Valley.

So the place must be open cause who would put a new guide out to a closed area. Thanks for the help anhoo.

To the other fella who PM'd me and offered to send me a copy. Thanks again.
Kind Reguards to all and climb your best
Beth

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#16315 - 09/26/05 12:07 AM Re: New Safe Harbor Guide Book [Re: Beth]
Mark Heyman Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1123
Loc: South Jersey (Pinelands)
Thanks for your replies but safe Harbor must be open because a new guidebook just came out for the place....the dude who did the guide is Todd Garcia......So the place must be open cause who would put a new guide out to a closed area.

Let me guess, Todd Garcia?


Edited by Mark Heyman (09/26/05 12:08 AM)

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#16316 - 09/26/05 05:00 PM Re: New Safe Harbor Guide Book [Re: Beth]
GymClimbingPoser Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/01
Posts: 285
Loc: Logan, UT
Safe Harbor is not open to climbing (it was open for a few weeks over the summer, and then the issue went back to court). During those few weeks many of the bolts were replaced and a lot of gardening was done (bolts replaced by Eric Horst and the ARI, gardening done by many).

There is in fact a new guidebook out, and it is a nice guidebook indeed. Why would Todd put out a guidebook to a closed area? (Speaking on his behalf): To get people to climb there so that a nice crag doesn't become completely overgrown and unclimbable (which is happening, although a lot of work went in this summer). The first page of the guidebook states that the area is closed and that climbing there may result in legal penalties. The guidebook also does NOT provide directions to the crag.

Safe Harbor has been closed for ten years and will likely stay that way as this backwater issue sits in files and on desks of the policymakers involved. People climbing at Safe Harbor while it is closed may contribute to getting it closed forever. On the other hand, the issue could also sit on the backburner for another ten years and then end up closed anyway.

*Climbers are free to decide if they would like to risk the legal penalties and climb there*

I personally make this decision pretty rarely since the crag is not much closer than the Gunks for me, but keep in mind that we are talking about the best roped climbing in PA (not that that is saying much).
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GymClimbingPoser

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#16317 - 09/26/05 05:31 PM Re: New Safe Harbor Guide Book [Re: GymClimbingPoser]
Mark Heyman Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1123
Loc: South Jersey (Pinelands)
Safe Harbor is not open to climbing

Glad you posted this

first page of the guidebook states that the area is closed

and this.

But the climbing there is nothing compared to the Gap.
I thought there were better places in western PA, but being from the East I'll let my comment stand alone with the Gap. Besides, it's legal to climb at the Gap.

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#16318 - 09/26/05 05:56 PM Re: New Safe Harbor Guide Book [Re: Mark Heyman]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
But the climbing there is nothing compared to the Gap.

Humm...lets see, I can't comment on SH but the gap features mucho vegetation, *good bit* lose rock in places, and route finding nightmares. Been to a few spots in western PA and if 25' high blocks of sandstone is your thing then it’s the schiznatch. High Rocks is more of developed “crag” with a lot to offer (minus some of the quality rock) There are a couple others thrown here and there, but none are destination places (even for the 3 hours road tripper)

I think I've finally come to the conclusion that PA Mountains are best left to Fly-fishing, for at least they are the best on the east coast for that.


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#16319 - 09/26/05 06:18 PM Re: New Safe Harbor Guide Book [Re: Smike]
GymClimbingPoser Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/01
Posts: 285
Loc: Logan, UT
I agree that PA is an awesome state for hiking and mountain biking, and actually bouldering as well, but not much in the way of rock climbing. I avoid the gap at all costs, nothing compared to some of the other areas. I live twenty minutes from High Rocks and ditto, it is not even in the top several areas. Mocanaqua in the Poconos has some really good stuff, it's actually Gunks rock and very steep, the area is like Lost City, but not as extensive. Birdsboro is decent, same with Stony Ridge, I like SH the best though. Wonderama and Blood Sugar Magic are hard to beat. I have always thought of Wonderama as the single best roped climb in PA.
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GymClimbingPoser

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