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#16361 - 09/20/05 09:12 PM one pitch 5.10s to rap clean
rw2157 Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/12/05
Posts: 5
Suggestions?

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#16362 - 09/20/05 09:19 PM Re: one pitch 5.10s to rap clean [Re: rw2157]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
mac wall.

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#16363 - 09/20/05 09:44 PM Re: one pitch 5.10s to rap clean [Re: crackers]
ScottR Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/27/05
Posts: 99
Frustration Syndrome

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#16364 - 09/21/05 01:16 AM Re: one pitch 5.10s to rap clean [Re: rw2157]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
You've got to clarify this for me. Are you looking to brush lichen off while rapping? Or to do a free-hanging sport rappel? Or simply looking for pitch where the gear can be removed whilst rapping? That last one is easy. My answer: most of them.

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#16365 - 09/21/05 02:21 AM Re: one pitch 5.10s to rap clean [Re: Mike Rawdon]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Do not try this on Erect Direction or Fat City...

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#16366 - 09/21/05 04:12 AM Re: one pitch 5.10s to rap clean [Re: rg@ofmc]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

Do not try this on Erect Direction or Fat City...



...or Stirrup Trouble or Matinee or ....
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#16367 - 09/21/05 01:39 PM Re: one pitch 5.10s to rap clean [Re: MarcC]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
Stirrup Trouble you can lower off and clean while following your own lead. Same for the first two pitches of Matinee or it could probably be rap cleaned if you ran the pitches together without the traverse over and back for the first belay, which is what you would do if a partner weren't following you.

Nosedive and Retribution, obviously.

If you include the possibility of lowering off and following your own lead, I'd agree that the answer is "most of them."

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#16368 - 09/21/05 03:53 PM Re: one pitch 5.10s to rap clean [Re: dalguard]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Some overhanging and diagonal leads can be rap-cleaned (which is what the question asks) if you anchor a strand at the bottom, do a single-strand rappel on the other (untensioned) strand, and use a quick draw from your harness to the anchored strand to guide you along the line of ascent. But there can be problems with this if the lead line has sections that make much less than a 45 degree angle with a horizontal plane, and other problems occur if the cliff geometry causes the tensioned lead line to be held tightly against the rock in some sections, or if unclipping from a piece causes the lead line to shift far way from the placement.

I think you could rap clean Stirrup Trouble this way, but I doubt Matinee or Erect Direction would cooperate.

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#16369 - 09/21/05 07:17 PM Re: one pitch 5.10s to rap clean [Re: rg@ofmc]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Quote:

I think you could rap clean Stirrup Trouble this way, but I doubt Matinee or Erect Direction would cooperate.




Well they're not really ONE PITCH 10's anyway...

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#16370 - 09/21/05 08:30 PM Re: one pitch 5.10s to rap clean [Re: Mike Rawdon]
browndog2 Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/24/01
Posts: 767
Loc: livin' on the edge
Quote:

Quote:

I think you could rap clean Stirrup Trouble this way, but I doubt Matinee or Erect Direction would cooperate.




Well they're not really ONE PITCH 10's anyway...




Yeah, like the nature of a question should influence the nature of a reply on this site. Like watta you thinking.
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