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#16427 - 09/29/05 03:28 PM Re: cam suggestions [Re: Architect]
D75 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/18/05
Posts: 293
Loc: Holiday Inn Express
Quote:

A word for the Tri cam discussion.
As of this coming weekend, I will have finished EVERY 5.5 pitch in the trapps* and I have yet to need a tri cam. ...
I gave all of my tricams away this year because I have not used them in over 2 seasons.
* blah blah.




Didn't need them. Didn't have them. Hmm. So not having one, never found place for one
Of course, (since you are spraying and have not yet finished anyway), I guess one could solo all those routes and say you don't need no stinkin' cams. or passive pro either.

There are places where tricams work and cams don't. Saw one a couple weeks ago in those grades. Of course, I didn't need it since it was not on my rack at the time . But I sure would have slotted it in instead of running it out, had it been there.

BTW. Analyzing post hoc is not the problem that the new leader faces. He needs to rack for what he might encounter on the as yet unknown pro opportunities. So the fact that afterwards he finds pieces on his rack that he did not use is evidence that they were not needed (that time). But the routes don't have tape on them. So when he does a route, he could do it differently from you, and he could even do it differently the second time. Or he might do it differently depending on what gear he has.

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#16428 - 09/29/05 03:37 PM Re: cam suggestions [Re: D75]
Architect Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/19/04
Posts: 210
Loc: north by northeast (from jerse...
absolutely

I think I missed my own point...
_________________________
-Karl - Looking for a clucking partner
www.genxclimbing.com

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#16429 - 09/29/05 04:34 PM Re: cam suggestions [Re: edk]
CrackBoy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
well you shouldn't be doing a route as a begining leader if you can't climb your way out of trouble.


maybe i am a sick hard climber™ but i make it a point to not push both gear and difficulty at the same time. this is a good rule of thumb for someone who is just starting out.

doubles on tricams..hell yea, i carry that even out here where everyone carries all cams. its like carrying two piece for the price of 1/5th a cam as Murph pointed out. just because you either a) hate them or b) suck at placing/cleaning em doesn't deny their versatility. and i think a new leader should be proficient in his/her nutcraft, it will help them out when pushing harder grades

i never climbed with a double set of cams at the gunks, yes i added several cams to my rack as i progressed (and could afford them) but the rack i suggested and maybe a red alien got me up to at least 5.7 and i never felt like i needed more.

i guess that does make me a sick hard climber™
_________________________
Just Call me Mr. Enthusiasm

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#16430 - 09/29/05 04:43 PM Re: cam suggestions [Re: CrackBoy]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
Quote:

The blue Camelot is key on easier climbs.


I've been thinking the same thing this whole thread. For easy routes, I think the #3 is more important than the green Alien.

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#16431 - 09/29/05 05:43 PM Re: cam suggestions [Re: MurphysLaw]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2468
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Quote:

I must be channeling RG here, I'm feeling quite retro-grouchy at the moment




You want retro-grouchage? I'll give you retro-grouchage:

Gunks rack:

short -thin
short-medium
short-thick
long-thin
long-medium
long-thick
1/2" angle
5/8" angle
3/4" angle, maybe two.
1" angle, maybe also 1.25" angle
1.5" angle

Now that's a gunks rack. Dig it.

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#16432 - 09/29/05 05:46 PM Re: cam suggestions [Re: rg@ofmc]
Architect Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/19/04
Posts: 210
Loc: north by northeast (from jerse...
Quote:

Quote:

I must be channeling RG here, I'm feeling quite retro-grouchy at the moment




You want retro-grouchage? I'll give you retro-grouchage:

Gunks rack:

short -thin
short-medium
short-thick
long-thin
long-medium
long-thick
1/2" angle
5/8" angle
3/4" angle, maybe two.
1" angle, maybe also 1.25" angle
1.5" angle

Now that's a gunks rack. Dig it.




Yeah but how do you color code those to your biners?

And what about rope?

I don't like angles so much because they are not shinny enough!
_________________________
-Karl - Looking for a clucking partner
www.genxclimbing.com

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#16433 - 09/29/05 05:55 PM Re: cam suggestions [Re: Architect]
browndog2 Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/24/01
Posts: 767
Loc: livin' on the edge
Ting!
Ting!
Ting!
Tangg!
Tungg!
TUNG!
Clip. Clip.
Climb, climb, climb.
Lather, rinse, repeat.

see how far ya get making those noises in the Trapps without some guy pecking at you with a 30.06. But you will feel retro(grouchy).
_________________________
(not that there's anything wrong with that...sorta)

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#16434 - 09/29/05 07:44 PM Re: cam suggestions [Re: MurphysLaw]
edk Offline
addict

Registered: 05/06/02
Posts: 441
Loc: allentown, NJ
Quote:



And of course often go where nothing else will.

For a smidge more than the cost and weight of ONE extra cam, you can have FIVE Tricams.





You are wierd....



we did all know that, but it's good to see you accept yourself

Anyway - I don't claim to climb to have climbed everything, but I cant think of one single instance -- not one -- not even when I carried 2 pinks, one red, and one brown -- where the only think I could have placed was a tri-cam.

From G to R I've never had to skip a placement becuase a tri-cam would only go.

That said - I really am being to hard on the little guys, They work, they are cheap, they hold..... well if you place them right.

Given the choice -- 5 tri-cams OR 1 CAM. SOme other might jump on the TC, but I'd have to think about that one.

My rack is divided into STAPEL and SPECIALITY

STAPELS are
Camalots: .5, .75, 1, 2, 3.5
Aliens: Blue, 2 green, 2 yellow, grey, red
Nuts: 1 set BD stoppers double 5,6 & 8 - Astro nuts - Wallnuts 9 & 10 1 set Wild Country superllights (single wire)

Specialty is
Alien hybrids
micro-camalots
Tri-cams
HB off-sets
CAMALOTS 3, 4

Mix and match, have fun deciding, but so far this season I have placed ONE tri-cam (brown on the belay at Doubleisima) That's just me. My pink Tri-cam is still stained with blood from the last time I "cleaned it" as I fell past it.

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#16435 - 09/29/05 08:03 PM Re: cam suggestions [Re: edk]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
Quote:

I cant think of one single instance -- not one -- not even when I carried 2 pinks, one red, and one brown -- where the only think I could have placed was a tri-cam.


Dude, you need to learn to place tricams. They definitely go where nothing else will in pockets and other not-quite-a-cam, not-quite-a-nut spots.

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#16436 - 09/29/05 08:07 PM Re: cam suggestions [Re: CrackBoy]
edk Offline
addict

Registered: 05/06/02
Posts: 441
Loc: allentown, NJ
Quote:

maybe i am a sick hard climber™ but i make it a point to not push both gear and difficulty at the same time. this is a good rule of thumb for someone who is just starting out.





Seems like a good point for NOT carrying a tri-cam. IMO it is one tricky piece to place well, requires practice, and having cleaned them some.

Now if a new leader hasn't the experiance with them then obviously they dont belong on that rack right?

Should a new leader NOT lead until they know how to place a tri-cam? I wouldn't say so.

Anyway, some of what you said sounded like an indictment and a little out of context,my paranoia might having me reading a little too much into it - but you wouldn't do that Mitch. right? Mitch?

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