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#16397 - 09/26/05 01:48 AM cam suggestions
skillet Offline
journeyman

Registered: 12/09/04
Posts: 73
Loc: long island,ny
finally getting into leading this year. need recommendations on what to get in the way of camming devices. most familiar with extracting BD and aliens so i'd like to probably stay with these brands. thanks for any help!
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#16398 - 09/26/05 02:31 AM Re: cam suggestions [Re: skillet]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
pink and red tricams
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#16399 - 09/26/05 02:58 AM Re: cam suggestions [Re: skillet]
intrepid02 Offline
Snarky Bastard

Registered: 06/24/02
Posts: 1421
Loc: Boulder
You really can't go wrong with the # 0.5 to # 3 camalots and the black to yellow (or maybe red) aliens. All solid pieces. And of course you NEED a pink and red tri-cam. If you have extra money after getting all that then I'd try out:

-Those new BD micros that look sweet... But no one has really tried them yet.
-The Trango Max Cams. They have an incredible expansion range.
-Metolius TCU's. I think these work better than aliens (non-offset) in pin scars
-Metolius Power Cams. Solid pieces for less money than BD's and a good way to acquire doubles of some of the key sizes.

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#16400 - 09/26/05 04:31 AM Re: cam suggestions [Re: skillet]
rackrat Offline
member

Registered: 12/20/02
Posts: 160
Loc: NYC - UWS
Here's a good basic start...

Green Alien
Yellow Alien
Red Alien
#0.75 Camalot
#1 Camalot
#2 Camalot

Red Tri-Cam
Pink Tri-Cam

Totals around $400

You can extend with a Blue Alien and Blue #3 Camalot. But, for most routes as a beginning leader, you won't need these.

RR
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#16401 - 09/26/05 11:12 AM Re: cam suggestions [Re: rackrat]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Stay with the well established manufactures, Black Diamond, Metolius, Wild Country, and you won't go wrong. Since you already use black diamond cams and like them, I'd go that way. Myself, I like (and use extensively) their microcams from 0.3 (the blue micro) to the full range. In the gunks, the blue micro and grey micro will get a bit of use, the purple and green cam jrs will get used extensively as will the red and yellow camalots. Definately get stoppers and get good with them. As you go up in grades, being proficient with them is important.

Tri-cam (warning this is blasphemy) I put in the same catagory (atleast for my climbng style) as cowbells (sorry, hexes), mainly good for beating the S%^& into frozen cracks for mixed climbing, just me.

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#16402 - 09/26/05 12:19 PM Re: cam suggestions [Re: skillet]
D75 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/18/05
Posts: 293
Loc: Holiday Inn Express
Skillet, maybe you should post the grades that you intend to start leading. You might get different recommendations on things like cam sizes depending on your target climbs.

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#16403 - 09/26/05 01:03 PM Re: cam suggestions [Re: rackrat]
edk Offline
addict

Registered: 05/06/02
Posts: 441
Loc: allentown, NJ
Quote:

Here's a good basic start...

Green Alien
Yellow Alien
Red Alien
#0.75 Camalot
#1 Camalot
#2 Camalot

Red Tri-Cam
Pink Tri-Cam

Totals around $400

You can extend with a Blue Alien and Blue #3 Camalot. But, for most routes as a beginning leader, you won't need these.

RR




huh - I think for TONS of routes you will be glad to have BD (old) #3.5 or (new - C4) #3 double the green and yellow aliens and/or get a grey. Forget the Tri-cams, utterly useless. get a full set of BD stoppers - you'll need them if the rack is light.

Stick with what you know Aliens and BD really are the shit.

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#16404 - 09/26/05 01:56 PM Re: cam suggestions [Re: edk]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
I take it he/she won't be starting on anything higher the 5.10 and black diamond 0.3, 0.4. 0.5, 0.75, 1 and 2.0 along with a full set of stoppers will be a good start in the Gunks, maybe with green and a blue aliens if you are starting in the higher grades (which I don't recommend but I do know a woman who started trad at 5.10c and she's developed into a pretty damn good climber but its better to work your way up through the grades since you have all the time in the world, hey I'm hoping to break into the .13's before I'm 45). I'm not recommending the blue for beginner leaders since the expansion range is deceptively little and its easy to misjudge as a new leader.

As I said, between Black Diamond, Metolius, CCH and Wild Country you won't go wrong, so go with what you like and works for you.

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#16405 - 09/26/05 05:45 PM Re: cam suggestions [Re: Chas]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
in defense of the tri-cams, I think that for their miniscule weight, it's worth having the pink and red on your rack. I've found many, many places where tey were the only pro worth placing. If nothing else, you can use them at anchors and save the cams for leading.

as for cowbells (hexes), they are by far the most indispensible pieces for long alpine rock routes, IMHO. I would never head into the mountains without them (BD #'s 8, 9, 10).
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#16406 - 09/26/05 06:59 PM Re: cam suggestions [Re: nerdom]
Architect Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/19/04
Posts: 210
Loc: north by northeast (from jerse...
The BEST Cams You could use (or lose) are your Partners...
Nuff Said.

oh but my favorites are my Aliens... All of them! don't forget the Hybrids.

-TROUT
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