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A word for the Tri cam discussion.
As of this coming weekend, I will have finished EVERY 5.5 pitch in the trapps* and I have yet to need a tri cam. ...
I gave all of my tricams away this year because I have not used them in over 2 seasons.
* blah blah.

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Didn't need them. Didn't have them. Hmm. So not having one, never found place for one
Of course, (since you are spraying and have not yet finished anyway), I guess one could solo all those routes and say you don't need no stinkin' cams. or passive pro either.

There are places where tricams work and cams don't. Saw one a couple weeks ago in those grades. Of course, I didn't need it since it was not on my rack at the time . But I sure would have slotted it in instead of running it out, had it been there.

BTW. Analyzing post hoc is not the problem that the new leader faces. He needs to rack for what he might encounter on the as yet unknown pro opportunities. So the fact that afterwards he finds pieces on his rack that he did not use is evidence that they were not needed (that time). But the routes don't have tape on them. So when he does a route, he could do it differently from you, and he could even do it differently the second time. Or he might do it differently depending on what gear he has.

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The blue Camelot is key on easier climbs.

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I must be channeling RG here, I'm feeling quite retro-grouchy at the moment

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I must be channeling RG here, I'm feeling quite retro-grouchy at the moment

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You want retro-grouchage? I'll give you retro-grouchage:

Gunks rack:

short -thin
short-medium
short-thick
long-thin
long-medium
long-thick
1/2" angle
5/8" angle
3/4" angle, maybe two.
1" angle, maybe also 1.25" angle
1.5" angle

Now that's a gunks rack. Dig it.

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And of course often go where nothing else will.

For a smidge more than the cost and weight of ONE extra cam, you can have FIVE Tricams.

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You are wierd....



we did all know that, but it's good to see you accept yourself

Anyway - I don't claim to climb to have climbed everything, but I cant think of one single instance -- not one -- not even when I carried 2 pinks, one red, and one brown -- where the only think I could have placed was a tri-cam.

From G to R I've never had to skip a placement becuase a tri-cam would only go.

That said - I really am being to hard on the little guys, They work, they are cheap, they hold..... well if you place them right.

Given the choice -- 5 tri-cams OR 1 CAM. SOme other might jump on the TC, but I'd have to think about that one.

My rack is divided into STAPEL and SPECIALITY

STAPELS are
Camalots: .5, .75, 1, 2, 3.5
Aliens: Blue, 2 green, 2 yellow, grey, red
Nuts: 1 set BD stoppers double 5,6 & 8 - Astro nuts - Wallnuts 9 & 10 1 set Wild Country superllights (single wire)

Specialty is
Alien hybrids
micro-camalots
Tri-cams
HB off-sets
CAMALOTS 3, 4

Mix and match, have fun deciding, but so far this season I have placed ONE tri-cam (brown on the belay at Doubleisima) That's just me. My pink Tri-cam is still stained with blood from the last time I "cleaned it" as I fell past it.

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I cant think of one single instance -- not one -- not even when I carried 2 pinks, one red, and one brown -- where the only think I could have placed was a tri-cam.

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maybe i am a sick hard climber™ but i make it a point to not push both gear and difficulty at the same time. this is a good rule of thumb for someone who is just starting out.

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