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#16626 - 10/17/05 02:10 AM metolius PAS
skillet Offline
journeyman

Registered: 12/09/04
Posts: 73
Loc: long island,ny
(personal anchor system). anyone use this system? feedback? thanks!
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#16627 - 10/17/05 02:42 AM Re: metolius PAS [Re: skillet]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2082
Loc: SoCal
I use it. I like it. It's a bit bulky, but the flexibility of its length is nice.

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#16628 - 10/17/05 08:57 AM Re: metolius PAS [Re: Julie]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
I've thought about it, but for trad I usually just clip both ropes to the anchor so there's not much need for another backup. I do have a long sling girth hitched to my belay loop, but for the most part I just use the ropes.

When climbing sport, I've thought it might be useful, but clipping the rope and a nylon sling as a backup work just fine. The 48" sling can easily be doubled or tripled to give you three easy lengths; if you just have to be a few more inches one way or another, the PAS would give you a bit more range. But I don't think that flexibility is really worth $20 more than a nylon sling, especially when it's so bulky.

I've seen other pas-like devices at Rumney that were various colors, so they probably weren't Metolius but I didn't get a chance to ask who made them.

I thought I saw a new Metolius PAS that uses thinner webbing two weeks ago at EMS, but I was in a rush so I didn't get to check it out. I'm overseas on business so I can't confirm it. Not too much thinner, just enough to notice it looked a bit different.

If Mammut came out with one using the 8mm floss (or the new 6mm stuff) I'd be very tempted to buy it. But even with the new design I think the Metolius PAS is too bulky.
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#16629 - 10/17/05 12:13 PM Re: metolius PAS [Re: quanto_the_mad]
intrepid02 Offline
Snarky Bastard

Registered: 06/24/02
Posts: 1421
Loc: Boulder
I'd buy it if they cut the price in half.

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#16630 - 10/17/05 12:36 PM Re: metolius PAS [Re: intrepid02]
Architect Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/19/04
Posts: 210
Loc: north by northeast (from jerse...
Too many loops to get gear or body parts caught in. The BD daisy chain works better for me when I know I'll be doing a lot of anchor work. otherwise I just girth hitch my lead line to two lockers on the chains.
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#16631 - 10/17/05 01:52 PM Re: metolius PAS [Re: Architect]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
I prefer the daisy I used to use but my partners prefer the PAS for its full strength. The PAS is bulkier and not as flexible (not as many loops) compared to a daisy but I can use it as my sole connection to the anchor and not worry about the strength issue.

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#16632 - 10/17/05 01:56 PM Re: metolius PAS [Re: dalguard]
d-elvis Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/26/00
Posts: 3650
Loc: Central PA
I use it, #1 reason is the full strength loops
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#16633 - 10/17/05 02:22 PM Re: metolius PAS [Re: Architect]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4269
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Quote:

Too many loops to get gear or body parts caught in. The BD daisy chain works better for me when I know I'll be doing a lot of anchor work. otherwise I just girth hitch my lead line to two lockers on the chains.





Don't you mean "clove hitch"? Pulling one end of a girth hitch will usually make it slip. In a fall I would expect this to glaze the sheath.

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#16634 - 10/17/05 03:20 PM Re: metolius PAS [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Architect Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/19/04
Posts: 210
Loc: north by northeast (from jerse...
Yep
Thats what I get fro posting pre coffee.
I think I was thinking about the daisy being girthed to my belay loop thanks Mike.

,,,
c\_/

coffees done!
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-Karl - Looking for a clucking partner
www.genxclimbing.com

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#16635 - 10/17/05 04:20 PM Re: metolius PAS [Re: quanto_the_mad]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2082
Loc: SoCal
Clipping in (or even making the belay) with the rope is nice, but only if you're swinging leads. If you're not leading the next pitch, or if you're setting up to rap, you'll have to tie in to the anchor with some kind of sling.

I'd love to see a dyneema PAS, too.

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