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#17110 - 11/09/05 12:48 PM 1First pitch only 5.easy...
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Yahoo... there might be a million threads, but you know that everyone always loves a chance to spew their opinion and a reason to take a minute or two out of the workday.....

This weekend I might be going up with someone who hasn't climbed in about ten years. I'm also going up with my dog, whom it is not an option to leave at home. Unless someone is going to volunteer to babysit her this weekend, it looks like I'm going to be limited to single pitch stuff so that she will not be left alone at the bottom. There are tons of obvious choices in the Uberfall area, and we may just end up hanging there, but what other climbs are there out there in the 5.3-5.6 range where it would be easy to set up an anchor after the first pitch, rap down, and give my friend a toprope belay up?

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#17111 - 11/09/05 01:39 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: Aya]
learningtolead Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/16/02
Posts: 981
Loc: a wanna be kerhonkson-er
I think Peterskill is a much better option in this situation that the Uberfall. There are plenty of easy routes and everything is one pitch. Plus it's a lot more chill than the Uberfall so you can TR without waiting in a line for a route or frustrating other climbers.

Another option might be to stroll out fairly far in the Nears. I've done some nice 1 pitch 5.5s out there that would fit the bill.

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#17112 - 11/09/05 03:16 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: learningtolead]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
Frog's Head, Finger Locks or Cedar Box, and Jackie all come to mind.

On weekends, I second the "way out in the Nears" suggestion. Little White Mushroom, the unnamed crack next to L.P., another 5.7 with a 5.6 P1 that I can't remember, just to the left of Little White Mushroom, and Eowyn.
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#17113 - 11/09/05 06:19 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: nerdom]
Terrie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/14/04
Posts: 247
I third Peterskill. It's easy to keep your eye on the doggy and the walkoffs are easy and quick. Far down the Nears is nice, so you don't have to worry about some self-elected police-y type reminding you of the preserve rules just because you happen to be there with your dog.....but the trails are pretty obstacle ridden. If /when your dog is on leash, be very careful about setting it up in a length that he/she can't get in trouble(jump off a small raised section and be hanging on the leash....sorry, I know that is a horrible image, but.....).
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#17114 - 11/09/05 11:53 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: Terrie]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Thanks - never been to Peterskill do the thought never even occurred to me. May just have to check it out... The pup's generally good at waiting when I tell her to wait (though she managed to pull me off my feet and onto my elbow a couple of weeks ago being too eager to jump a gap..) and she's an experienced climbing companion so we should be ok in that regard. I'm really looking for nothing that needs to be walked off of so I guess I'll go consult the guidebook!
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#17115 - 11/10/05 12:52 AM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: Aya]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Quote:

I'm really looking for nothing that needs to be walked off of so I guess I'll go consult the guidebook!




Well just about everything at PK needs a visit to the top to break down your anchor, and since the fixed anchors are for the most part unsuitable for rapping (i.e. there are no chains on the PK bolts; I think only two sets of bolts - at Ooops and Psycho Right, both are above NON-beginner terrain -have welded rings) then you have to walk off. But the walk offs are short and pleasant.

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#17116 - 11/10/05 04:30 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: Mike Rawdon]
climbEEr Offline
member

Registered: 03/10/04
Posts: 110
Loc: Boston, MA
At Peterskill, if you make gear anchors for climbs that do not have bolts at the top for anchors....they have regulations against using trees for anchors (not certain if it is one kind of treee or all of them, personally I just steer clear of them altogether). Also on certain climbs good positions for an all gear anchor are back a little way from the edge so some long cordage can be very useful.

Have fun!

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#17117 - 11/10/05 08:28 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: Mike Rawdon]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Quote:

I think only two sets of bolts - at Ooops and Psycho Right, both are above NON-beginner terrain -have welded rings) then you have to walk off. But the walk offs are short and pleasant.




Add the Scrotum Pole to that list...

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#17118 - 11/10/05 09:24 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2225
Loc: Gardiner, NY

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#17119 - 11/11/05 02:56 AM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: pedestrian]
Tai Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/02/03
Posts: 290
Loc: Middle of nowhere: South Salem...
Quote:

Quote:

I think only two sets of bolts - at Ooops and Psycho Right, both are above NON-beginner terrain -have welded rings) then you have to walk off. But the walk offs are short and pleasant.




Add the Scrotum Pole to that list...




The Scrotum Pole has bolts, but not welded rap rings. Rapping through the bolts... isn't advised, if you want your rope.

T
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#17120 - 11/11/05 03:47 AM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: Tai]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
Aren't they all rap hangers? I could have sworn someone said they were all rap hangers and you could rap through them.
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#17121 - 11/11/05 01:49 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: quanto_the_mad]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4242
Quote:

Aren't they all rap hangers? I could have sworn someone said they were all rap hangers and you could rap through them.




Tai is the mayor of Peter's Kill. What he says about the place is truth.

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#17122 - 11/11/05 02:07 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: quanto_the_mad]
Tai Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/02/03
Posts: 290
Loc: Middle of nowhere: South Salem...
Quote:

Aren't they all rap hangers? I could have sworn someone said they were all rap hangers and you could rap through them.




Someone might have said that. I propose that they're wrong. You're welcome to discover for yourself; rappel off the bolts on top of the Enterprise Wall, and let me know if you can pull your rope afterwards.

And I'm just the Treasurer of Peterskill. Strat is the Ombudsman and resident TR soloist.

T
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#17123 - 11/11/05 03:43 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: Tai]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

Quote:

Aren't they all rap hangers? I could have sworn someone said they were all rap hangers and you could rap through them.




Someone might have said that. I propose that they're wrong. You're welcome to discover for yourself; rappel off the bolts on top of the Enterprise Wall, and let me know if you can pull your rope afterwards.



Do they look like the ones on Jackie or the protection bolts on Arrow? The former are rap hangers. If bolts are placed in the wrong spot, a pull-down can be impossible, even with rap hangers or chains.
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#17124 - 11/11/05 03:59 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: Tai]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
No thanks. I used to tell people not to rap directly off the hangers at PK, but someone got on my case about the hangers being rap hangers and that rapping and pulling the rope through them was perfectly fine. Since then I've been telling people to walk off, seems better than ruffling feathers.
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#17125 - 11/11/05 04:45 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: Tai]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Quote:

The Scrotum Pole has bolts, but not welded rap rings. Rapping through the bolts... isn't advised, if you want your rope.




Back when I did it, it had permanent fixed slings with rap rings run through the bolt hangers on the Arete I side. Rapping was not a problem. Some idiot cut 'em?

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#17126 - 11/11/05 05:02 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: pedestrian]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
I put the webbing and rap rings there last year (or was it early this year? I don't remember). It was raining, I didn't want to downclimb nor pull my rope through the hangers. The webbing was short enough not to hang over the edge, so they wouldn't be visible from the ground, and not ideal for TR. Made getting down much easier.

Can't imagine why someone would cut them, they were probably the least obtrusive anchors at PK.
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#17127 - 11/11/05 05:10 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: quanto_the_mad]
Tai Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/02/03
Posts: 290
Loc: Middle of nowhere: South Salem...
Quote:

I put the webbing and rap rings there last year (or was it early this year? I don't remember). It was raining, I didn't want to downclimb nor pull my rope through the hangers. The webbing was short enough not to hang over the edge, so they wouldn't be visible from the ground, and not ideal for TR. Made getting down much easier.

Can't imagine why someone would cut them, they were probably the least obtrusive anchors at PK.




I didn't cut them away (really, I didn't), but I did see people TRing through the rap rings above the Scrotum Pole. IMHO it's a good idea for a rap station to be there because it protects the tree from rappel damage and not everyone knows the Texas Rope Trick, but people still think it's SOP to TR through rap rings. Perhaps a less-intrusive color webbing, on a different section of the tree instead of that branch right over the route?

I remember, last year, when someone put in rap rings on the Chalkboard Wall bolts with a single piece of webbing going from bolt to bolt - and people were TRing using them. I did cut that one away.

T
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#17128 - 11/11/05 05:18 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: quanto_the_mad]
Tai Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/02/03
Posts: 290
Loc: Middle of nowhere: South Salem...
Quote:

No thanks. I used to tell people not to rap directly off the hangers at PK, but someone got on my case about the hangers being rap hangers and that rapping and pulling the rope through them was perfectly fine. Since then I've been telling people to walk off, seems better than ruffling feathers.




Jerks, they were.

Walking off is definitely better.

T
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#17129 - 11/11/05 06:15 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: Tai]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

...but people still think it's SOP to TR through rap rings. Perhaps a less-intrusive color webbing,...

I remember, last year, when someone put in rap rings on the Chalkboard Wall bolts with a single piece of webbing going from bolt to bolt - and people were TRing using them. I did cut that one away.




Sigh. Why don't Gunkies use the standard chains and quick-links like almost everywhere else on fixed community anchors? It's a given - the clueless will continue to TR through fixed hardware. So why not use something that is both robust and easily replaced when necessary?
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#17130 - 11/11/05 09:19 PM Re: 1First pitch only 5.easy... [Re: MarcC]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
some people carry rap webbing and rings "just in case." not so with chains...

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