Does anyone know about the alpine routes on Katahdin in Baxter State Park in ME? I know the names (Armadillo Buttress, Flatiron Buttress, chimney etc.) But other then class and difficulty I know nothing else.
Thanks!
Seth Maciejowski
sethm@wpi.edu

Seth:
Katahdin's Armadillo Butress has to be the Northeasts most stunning alpine line. 2000' off the pond and overlooking the huge s. basin. one couldn't get a better view. The climb is detailed in Waterman's Yankee rock and ice (pg's 164-169). Other than that , Stewart Guay the alpine ranger at Chimney Pond ( At Roaring Brook in the summer.) could give you specific beta once your thier. Also, try Jon Tierney at the University of Maine at Orano ( Maine Bound )& Acadia mnt. guides in Bar Harbor. ( both have web sites, just do a search on Yahoo.)
Long approach....and unless you've booked a site at Chimney pond your hiking in / out to at least roaring brook's parking lot ( 6 miles total.) ....mabey longer. Plus you'll have to deal with the park authorities unending BS . All together though , well worth it...if you don't mind BIG BROTHER watching your every move !!!
Sean T. Bowen
(flashnem@aol.com)

The armadillo climbs an obvious flake for one pitch (5.8 offwidth and chimmney moves) then a crack (2 fixed pins) then a 5.4-5.6 pitch to the ridge a few fourth class pitches and one 5.7 pitch in between. If you dont reserve a campground be at the park gate before 5a.m. or they wont let you up to the lot to hike to Chimmney Pond. The new ranger is the dumbest man on earth so plan on dealing with alot of BS. He will do everything in his power to not let you climb reguardless of what you tell him your resume includes. He will inspect all your gear so bring a helmet. Pick an agenda and stick to it if you come off the climb a second after dark the ranger will call you irresponsable and tell you never to come back. Dont count on them for a rescue either because none of the current rangers have climbed any of the routes there. Its a great place to climb though and the route is well worth the burocratic bs you deal with.

And as we move into the twenty first century we have.... dumb rangers and bureaucratic bullshit... gotta love progress. Seems like Katahdin was easier to climb with hemp ropes and rope soled shoes back in the 30's.