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#17361 - 11/30/05 03:11 PM Re: 5.6 Roof Recommendations? [Re: maimed]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3416
Loc: pdx
how about Arch/Wrist?

i think that's a worthwhile combo of roofiness even if it's a bit easier than 5.6.

I'd do drunkard's in 1 up to the GT...

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#17362 - 11/30/05 03:28 PM Re: 5.6 Roof Recommendations? [Re: crackers]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

I'd do drunkard's in 1 up to the GT...



We discussed this just a few months ago. Your second risks an ankle spraining/breaking ground fall from the crux due to rope stretch. It's happened more than once.
_________________________
- Marc

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#17363 - 11/30/05 03:33 PM Re: 5.6 Roof Recommendations? [Re: dalguard]
Architect Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/19/04
Posts: 210
Loc: north by northeast (from jerse...
Quote:

You would really send a 5.6 leader to do Colorful Crack?




No kidding!

my suggestion, Double Chin. the second bulge is more then you think. and its 5.5 G.

Just protect your second, they may get sketched out if you go straight to the anchor!
_________________________
-Karl - Looking for a clucking partner
www.genxclimbing.com

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#17364 - 11/30/05 04:14 PM Re: 5.6 Roof Recommendations? [Re: maimed]
GOclimb Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2326
Loc: Boston
Jacky and, and, the one next to it (is it called Classic)?

GO

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#17365 - 11/30/05 04:23 PM Re: 5.6 Roof Recommendations? [Re: GOclimb]
pitfall Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/01/00
Posts: 1159
Loc: Albany
Lead the ones you've followed. It will be a very different experience.

But save Stricly for last, it may not be a roof but it's pumpy and if you sketch on lead there can be very bad consequences.
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#17366 - 11/30/05 05:30 PM Re: 5.6 Roof Recommendations? [Re: pitfall]
maimed Offline
newbie

Registered: 07/12/05
Posts: 26
Loc: Jersey City, NJ
Thanks a lot for all of the suggestions. (And not a single STFU).
Let's hope another beautiful day like today comes along before spring.

-Matt

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#17367 - 11/30/05 05:35 PM Re: 5.6 Roof Recommendations? [Re: dalguard]
D75 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/18/05
Posts: 293
Loc: Holiday Inn Express
Quote:

You would really send a 5.6 leader to do Colorful Crack?



I suggested two possibilities (other than leading). But if it is really important to you! I will now try to be more explicit.

Don't lead Colorful Crack - maybe it is sandbagged at a 6, or maybe you won't have gear large enough to protect the moves necessary to make the exit (Like Boston - Bigger than typical Gunks cam, because your whole leg will fit in the crack). Plus if the usual bouldering guys are there they may scratch their heads like you are nuts.

Really - Do not lead it. It could be upsetting. And it really is not worth the effort (IMO). I am guessing you just need one BIG piece. I think it protects the entire climb. But you can reverse it before the crux moves. (I suck - so you can believe that). One of the days that I TR'ed it, it was raining. After reversing the crack part, went and got gear and rope for TR. Of course if you TR it, the bouldering guys won't be impressed with that either.
But they won't be there in the rain. And the exit moves are a little more exciting that way - not that you will feel the need for extra excitement if you are at the 6 level!

OK, Resume flame or normal thread.

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#17368 - 11/30/05 10:37 PM Re: 5.6 Roof Recommendations? [Re: crackers]
fear Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/27/03
Posts: 220
Loc: New England
Quote:

I'd do drunkard's in 1 up to the GT...




And the P1 of Drunkards ain't 5.6.....

Wait until your solid at 5.8.

-Fear

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#17369 - 11/30/05 11:44 PM Re: 5.6 Roof Recommendations? [Re: fear]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
well, roofs are my specialty and I don't know how to grade them, so take my advice with a grain of salt. however, these haven't been mentioned:

3rd pitch variation to yum yum yab yum (5.6)
bunny's roof variation (5.6)
disneyland roof variation (5.??? or go around)
sundance (not really a roof, but overhangs for a few moves in a row, and worth doing for practice for something like high e)
then walk over on the ledge and set up a toprope on ghostdance (5.7R roof)
frogshead variation roof finish (5.6)

1st pitch of modern times (5.6 or 5.7 debatable)

all the above are good. in the "to do when feeling confident" category:

tequila mockingbird/dry martini (5.6 or 5.7+ ish) you can swing leads and just do the 5.6 roof on the short p1 and then set up a gear anchor if you want, if you want to avoid the 5.7 crux

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