I've just finished up my first season of leading (barring more mild weather like the last couple of days). I've been comfortable well above gear on The Last Shall Be First, but took a whipper on Unholy Wick and got sketched below the final roof on Madame G's (I eventually exited left). Any suggestions on basic roofs to try to pull on lead next? I've followed Strictly's, Shockley's, Classic, Red Pillar and Baby.

-Matt

Jackie and Triple Bulges both have fun, juggy roofs that are quite protectable.

I had a bunch of fun leading Triple Bulges, but I remember being at a committing move and traversing right, then back left to avoid pulling directly into the unknown above. I did the same thing leading P2 of Shockley's as well. Jackie is on my list for the next warm day.

Thanks!

P2 of Shockley's is considered 5.7 in at least one guidebook. And it can be scary if all you've got is that bad pin under the overhang move.

Takethe lead for the last pitch of Yellow Ridge (5.6 in many folks' opinion, no harder than 6+ in mine, but certainly thrilling). P3 of Middle Earth is 5.6 if you're tall, I think. Maria P3 is another 6+. Baby P2 is a good one. The straight up version of Horseman, perhaps. Double Chin. Bunny roof option (5.6) And of course the Granddaddy of all "passing a roof" moves (yea, another 6+): High Exposure.

And by all means go back and fire straight up Triple Bulges to the top - it's a great pitch.

The initial move or two on Classic is 7(+) but the rest of the climb is much easier with a great 6 roof at the end.

You've followed Baby; I think the p2 overhang is absolutely sweet. Just take it one move at a time, and it's solid all the way. Maria's p3 roof is exciting, but definitely more "out there" for the grade. Still, if you felt comfortable on The Last Shall Be First, which I thought was thin on gear, and felt OK up to the end of Madame G's, which I consider a "testpiece" 6, I'd think these leads would be on your list. I still haven't found the 5.6 sequence on Shockley's (I think I got it down to 5.7 last time, though my second thinks he found the 5.9 way of doing it), but if you blow it the fall is clean with gear that should hold an SUV and should be pretty obvoius to place.

And, of course, the ever-present High E . . . .

(Pet peeve: why does just about everyone call it "Strictly's"? Strickly's what? Strictly speaking, it's "Strictly," isn't it?)

I seem to recall a fun 5.6ish roof on P2 of Drunkards Delight.

Another really neat 5.6 roof / blind step around thing is Credibility Gap over near Asphodel. Bomber gear and I swear it's 5.6 even though it won't look like it. Plus then you can TR Laughing Man or WTTG.

-Fear

Colorful Crack - Though the route is so short, why not just TR it. Or you could pull the roof, skip the next 8 feet, and drop onto a bouldering pad (or two ). This is definitely different than the others mentioned, which are all good.

Wisecrack crux is roof-like just off the ground and protectable. Calisthenic (if you are tall enough to reach or jump to the starting hold. Partner has to be able to also!) - but the rest of the climb does not really live up to the start. You could just boulder this, down climb a couple moves and drop - good landing. (Ok, it says it is a seven, but YMMV, probably a 10+ if you are under 5'6" and have white man's legs.)

On the final pitch of Minty, there is a overhang variation (minty overhang). This may be a good one. This variation statrs right off the GT ledge.

You would really send a 5.6 leader to do Colorful Crack?

how about Arch/Wrist?

i think that's a worthwhile combo of roofiness even if it's a bit easier than 5.6.

I'd do drunkard's in 1 up to the GT...

Jacky and, and, the one next to it (is it called Classic)?

GO

Lead the ones you've followed. It will be a very different experience.

But save Stricly for last, it may not be a roof but it's pumpy and if you sketch on lead there can be very bad consequences.

Thanks a lot for all of the suggestions. (And not a single STFU).
Let's hope another beautiful day like today comes along before spring.

-Matt

well, roofs are my specialty and I don't know how to grade them, so take my advice with a grain of salt. however, these haven't been mentioned:

3rd pitch variation to yum yum yab yum (5.6)
bunny's roof variation (5.6)
disneyland roof variation (5.??? or go around)
sundance (not really a roof, but overhangs for a few moves in a row, and worth doing for practice for something like high e)
then walk over on the ledge and set up a toprope on ghostdance (5.7R roof)
frogshead variation roof finish (5.6)

1st pitch of modern times (5.6 or 5.7 debatable)

all the above are good. in the "to do when feeling confident" category:

tequila mockingbird/dry martini (5.6 or 5.7+ ish) you can swing leads and just do the 5.6 roof on the short p1 and then set up a gear anchor if you want, if you want to avoid the 5.7 crux