Shout Box

Who's Online
0 registered (), 14 Guests and 4 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 1 of 5 1 2 3 4 5 >
Topic Options
#18480 - 03/13/06 07:14 PM Springtime in the Gunks
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
The weather last Saturday was inviting:



There were more people on the crag above than there are in this picture, and there are at least five more people on the ground not in this view.

Top
#18481 - 03/13/06 07:33 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: rg@ofmc]
MurphysLaw Offline
gumby

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
There was a crowd on the Frog's Head wall?

That *never* happens.....

Congrats to those who got out and enjoyed the lovely weather for some vertical silliness.

I opted for a family bike ride, which was lovely.
Em wanted to go again on Sunday, she was bummed that we couldn't cuz it was raining.
_________________________
"Flailing?" "Flail on!"

Top
#18482 - 03/13/06 08:27 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: MurphysLaw]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
There were parties all over Madame G's as well. I counted 4 simultaneous rope teams at one point. Which on a (one or) two pitch route, makes for some interesting traffic issues!

But everyone seemed polite and just too happy to be out on a great day. Too bad it can't be like that all summer. The difference could also be that it is the most serious climbers that rush to get their season underway in March, and these folks generally have a good handle on behavior and climbing etiquette.

Top
#18483 - 03/13/06 09:30 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
Ya I we ran into 2!!! other parties at Lost City....ugg

Of course too bad since Winter Round 2 is coming up by end of this week.

Top
#18484 - 03/13/06 09:59 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Smike]
Terrie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/14/04
Posts: 247
We were in the Nears, avoiding crowds.... there were probably 5 or 6 parties that we ran into the whole day.

As for this coming weekend - that is just not fair! Still time for the weather to shift back to a more respectable position, though....
_________________________
Links to my blog, and online t-shirt shop

Top
#18485 - 03/13/06 10:55 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Smike]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Sunday was good too, if you woke up early enough. I'm guessing the Mike and Molly household didnt take advantage of the early morning climbing weather. I did though, and bagged my first 5.10 lead of the year! yippee for me. I'm paying for it today though.

RR

Top
#18486 - 03/13/06 10:56 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: rg@ofmc]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2362
Loc: Boston
Cool!

Four friends of mine drove out from Boston on Saturday. They had a great time - would have joined them if I hadn't had an obligation that evening. Here's my friend Jen on Shockley's. It's her hardest lead to date!



As for me, at least I had time to enjoy the fantastic weather at a local crag. Urban climbing at its finest!




Looking forward to seeing some of y'all out at the Gunks soon!

GO

Top
#18487 - 03/13/06 11:08 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: rg@ofmc]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2362
Loc: Boston
Speaking of spring climbing - has anyone ever run into exfoliated stuff on the first climbing days of the season? Most other places I've been have this problem - where the freeze-thaw cycles of the winter separate blocks that were still barely connected in the fall, and the first one to come across it in the spring gets an unhappy surprise. Seems like this wouldn't be as much of an issue - the Gunks doesn't exfoliate like granite does, but there's still got to be some action - that huge talus field the the stairmaster goes up didn't get placed there on its own!

Anyone have any experience with this at the Gunks? Any areas or climbs you'd avoid early in the season?

GO

Top
#18488 - 03/13/06 11:23 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: GOclimb]
D75 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/18/05
Posts: 293
Loc: Holiday Inn Express
You and all the friends you can convince might just want to stay away until mid july when it warms up and the crowds thin a bit.

Must be some reason everybody is wearing helmets.

Maybe even work on urban climbing guide book. Be sure to include a chapter on all of the dangers of climbing outside urban areas like the gunks - copperheads, raptor closures, mountain lions, bears, rockfall - especially the kind of exfoliation caused by not so nimble noobs.

Seriously, all the talus was trucked in by appies to make it look scary.

Top
#18489 - 03/14/06 02:17 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: D75]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
RR wrote:
I'm paying for it today though.
Sunday I was paying for the Rollie's competition that broke out at around mid-night, oh ya btw, your significant other puts us all to same. She is the Rollie goddess....

Top
#18490 - 03/14/06 02:25 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Smike]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Well, I climbed ice AND rock on Saturday - I did Crystal Ice Tower (go me!) first thing in the AM and then headed across the road to the Spiders Web and climbed a bunch of classic crack climbs. Starting off the season following 10s and 11s wasn't really what I was planning, but I'm kind of enjoying the wow I climbed really hard ache that I've got going on in my back today. Here's a tip, though, don't climb rock in your ice harness. Mine just doesn't fit right without all the layers of padding and I've got some nasty bruises on my hips today....

I can't wait for my first climb at the gunks this year!
_________________________
Gunks T-Shirts!

Top
#18491 - 03/14/06 03:45 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Aya]
D75 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/18/05
Posts: 293
Loc: Holiday Inn Express
good aya. then maybe it would be on topic

Top
#18492 - 03/14/06 05:36 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: D75]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2362
Loc: Boston
Quote:

You and all the friends you can convince might just want to stay away until mid july when it warms up and the crowds thin a bit.

Must be some reason everybody is wearing helmets.

Maybe even work on urban climbing guide book. Be sure to include a chapter on all of the dangers of climbing outside urban areas like the gunks - copperheads, raptor closures, mountain lions, bears, rockfall - especially the kind of exfoliation caused by not so nimble noobs.

Seriously, all the talus was trucked in by appies to make it look scary.




D75, I may be drunk right now, but you'll still be an ass in the morning.

Oh yeah...

GO

Top
#18493 - 03/14/06 04:03 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: GOclimb]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
bah, it's still ski/riding season! Killington was fantastic this weekend. Saturday started a little hard, but quickly loosened up when the sun came out. A temperature inversion kept the mountain soft all night, and on Sunday, despite a frozen parking lot, the mountain was in spectacular condition. Perfect, soft, spring corn everywhere. It paid to be out early, because at around 1:30, it rained to beat the band. But man was it a fun day while it lasted.
_________________________
we're all living proof that nothing lasts

Top
#18494 - 03/14/06 04:17 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: GOclimb]
climbEEr Offline
member

Registered: 03/10/04
Posts: 110
Loc: Boston, MA
Quote:

Speaking of spring climbing - has anyone ever run into exfoliated stuff on the first climbing days of the season? Most other places I've been have this problem - where the freeze-thaw cycles of the winter separate blocks that were still barely connected in the fall, and the first one to come across it in the spring gets an unhappy surprise. Seems like this wouldn't be as much of an issue - the Gunks doesn't exfoliate like granite does, but there's still got to be some action - that huge talus field the the stairmaster goes up didn't get placed there on its own!

Anyone have any experience with this at the Gunks? Any areas or climbs you'd avoid early in the season?

GO




While we were racking up on Maria Direct, there was a party up on City Lights or in that area that kept dislodging softball sized rocks and allowing them to rain down on to the people below. Occasionally they would call rock. So that kept us on our toes but we didn't find anything loose while climbing.

Top
#18495 - 03/14/06 04:50 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: climbEEr]
greyalien Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/06/05
Posts: 86
Loc: Central NJ and Upstate NY
Well I didnt get up to the gunks last weekend, but I did go bouldering here yesterday. We were expecting the usual 40 degrees and numb fingers, but it was 75! I was too hot the whole time. Not only was I climbing without a shirt on, but I wished i had been wearing shorts! Might go again today, so at least it will be cooler. We have recently found a TON of awesome bouldering around here so were pretty psyched on that, but hopefully we can get up to ny next weekend. (Dont worry, Im not crazy and prefer a day of trad to bouldering).
_________________________
- Will

Top
#18496 - 03/14/06 04:53 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: greyalien]
GeeVee Offline
Auto Reply

Registered: 11/14/00
Posts: 4403
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Speaking of bouldering, there was a bunch of folks out on Cat Rock in Central Park on Saturday. I was walking by with some friends and WeeVee made a dash for some of the small rocks nearby shouting "Me climb, me climb."

Daddy was very proud of his boy.
_________________________
So long as you can boogie you ain't too old.

Top
#18497 - 03/14/06 05:57 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: GeeVee]
chazman Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/07/02
Posts: 944
GV, Is Heckscher Playground open yet?

Top
#18498 - 03/14/06 06:43 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: chazman]
GeeVee Offline
Auto Reply

Registered: 11/14/00
Posts: 4403
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Didn't walk right by it to see what's going on but from where I was it looks like one big construction site.
_________________________
So long as you can boogie you ain't too old.

Top
#18499 - 03/16/06 01:31 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Aya]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
Quote:

Here's a tip, though, don't climb rock in your ice harness. Mine just doesn't fit right without all the layers of padding and I've got some nasty bruises on my hips today....





Here's a shocker, some people use the same harness all year long!!!!
_________________________
tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Top
#18500 - 03/16/06 02:04 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: empicard]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Yeah well my rock harness didn't fit over all the layers when I started ice climbing so I bought a Blizzard for that. I need to stick to womens specific harnesses because of my hips... Anyways... to get back on topic... I wanted to head up this weekend but it looks like it will be a little too cold.

All the better; I can sleep off the inevitable St. Patty's hangover that way, I guess.
_________________________
Gunks T-Shirts!

Top
#18501 - 03/16/06 02:13 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Aya]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
or you could go to NH. there should be a foot+ of freshies by the time the present stretch of flurries are done. (you'll only get to play in it if you stay out of the resorts)

Top
#18502 - 03/16/06 05:27 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: nerdom]
Daniel Offline
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
bah, it's still ski/riding season!

Knee-deep powder (in spots) at Jackson Hole today.

Off to Squaw Valley on Saturday, where they're reporting a base of 280 inches at mid-mountain.

I think spring can wait a little while longer.

Top
#18503 - 03/16/06 01:59 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Daniel]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
oh, you lucky bastard!! Squaw is getting pounded again today, expecting 2-3 feet of new fluff! You'd better have chains!

Closer to home, Killington is reporting they got 7" of new snow in the last 24 hours.
_________________________
we're all living proof that nothing lasts

Top
#18504 - 03/16/06 10:35 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: nerdom]
CrackBoy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
seriously, its been snowing for like 2 weeks straight in tahoe. though be prepared, after tommorow i am done studying ont he weekends so that means the weather should turn to crap for skiing.

_________________________
Just Call me Mr. Enthusiasm

Top
#18505 - 03/17/06 03:34 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: nerdom]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Quote:

Closer to home, Killington is reporting they got 7" of new snow in the last 24 hours.




Yeah, but that's been spread across two skiing days. It'll be tracked off by the time you get there this weekend (if you're going)

go backcountry somewhere that holds powder. do yourself a favor.

i have to use up my mEticket too but i ain't doing it this icy weekend. (anyone who skis with me in late march/early april can get a discount hint hint)

wish i were at squaw again. i was there in february and they got a lot of snow but not as much as they were getting now. don't forget to hike the Palisades

Top
#18506 - 03/17/06 03:50 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: pedestrian]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Well nevermind. It looks like I'll be the idiot trying to climb rock at the gunks this weekend. 10-1 I propose quitting at noon to retire to Bacchus.
_________________________
Gunks T-Shirts!

Top
#18507 - 03/17/06 01:37 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Aya]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
Ya whos gonna be around? Home im provement will be the order of the weekend, but me thinks running into town to down some suds might be in order.

Top
#18508 - 03/17/06 01:49 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Smike]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
aid climbing
_________________________
John Okner Photography

Top
#18509 - 03/17/06 01:56 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: nerdom]
chazman Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/07/02
Posts: 944
Quote:

Closer to home, Killington is reporting they got 7" of new snow in the last 24 hours.



Don't even get me started... we just got back from the annual "Dad's Ski Trip" at Killington and while it was a blast as usual (I entered the world of free heel skiing and suspect I may never look back ) but back to my rant... that mountain is in the worst shape I have even seen it for early/mid March. They need 7 FEET of snow to recover... or just call it a season. What pisses me off is the trail reports indicating a 20-30" avg base depth... trust me... Dirt - 12" is more realistic

Top
#18510 - 03/17/06 03:05 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: chazman]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
Yeah, a lot of trails are closed, but you should have been there this past weekend before the rains came. I'm not kidding, it was spectacular. Dream Maker was perfect moguls top to bottom, and all of Bear Mountain was beautiful. Unfortunately, the warm weekend temps, and the rain that blew in Sunday afternoon, hurt 'em pretty bad.
_________________________
we're all living proof that nothing lasts

Top
#18511 - 03/20/06 03:50 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Smike]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Quote:

Ya whos gonna be around? Home im provement will be the order of the weekend, but me thinks running into town to down some suds might be in order.




You get much home improvement done???

Well, I fufilled my climbing quota for the next few weeks I think. My arms are shot. What an awesome weekend - how often do you get the gunks to yourself on a weekend??
_________________________
Gunks T-Shirts!

Top
#18512 - 03/20/06 03:52 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Aya]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
News flash, this weekend was not springtime at the Gunks, either by the calendar or in terms of temperature

Skied Right Gully on Tuckermans today. Hahaha powder*!!!1





* ok, and lots and lots of ice. we're talking NHL regulation size ice. But, powder! Hahaha!


Edited by pedestrian (03/20/06 03:54 AM)

Top
#18513 - 03/20/06 02:42 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: pedestrian]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
You get much home improvement done???
Not much, too busy shooting photos of you...

Anyway I thought you're done climbing for the season now that you have lead the two routes you wanted for the season? Nice job on both climbs.

Top
#18514 - 03/21/06 12:36 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Smike]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Awesome awesome photos, thanks.

And it was 3 routes, actually, because I wanted to lead Arrow, as well. I'm busy consulting my book and coming up with a long list of 7's and 8's to do, but while I'm at it, I think I'm going to throw this out there; we'll see how realistic it is. My new goals are to lead Son of Easy O (incentive to work on that upper body strength, so I need more of those slightly steeper 6's to get strong on!) and Ant's Line (because I just want to add another 9 for the heck of it and I think I can do it).

Hope the weather is as nice next weekend - when it's properly springtime...!
_________________________
Gunks T-Shirts!

Top
#18515 - 03/21/06 02:09 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Aya]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Aya--did you lead WASP? Finally got your first 9, not bad...

That was an earlyish 9 for me as well. Not sure I want to go back there again, especially now that I'm fat and old and weak.

Top
#18516 - 03/21/06 02:11 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: pedestrian]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
I did do Wasp!
It wasn't too bad. I liked it a lot.
High E was a horrorshow. Good thing I wasn't wearing mascara because I was pretty much crying. I'm such a wimp!
_________________________
Gunks T-Shirts!

Top
#18517 - 03/21/06 02:24 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Aya]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
I will repeat my usual:

If I can lead Ants line, you can cruise it for sure!

Groovy's a good stepping stone for Ants. Wasp was my first (intentional) 9 too

Top
#18518 - 03/21/06 04:03 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Aya]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Aya, heh did I tell you my High E story? Oy vay...

Top
#18519 - 03/21/06 12:06 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: pedestrian]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Let's hear it.
_________________________
Gunks T-Shirts!

Top
#18520 - 03/21/06 01:43 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: pedestrian]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Well, I read the moves wrong -- I hand traversed and heel hooked under the block, tried to swing up, realized I was making it into a 10 and backed off. I got super pumped and sat in the alcove for a while shaking out and panicing (trying the patience of the pair of Valley climbers below who eventually just gave me the beta.)

So I made the move, got some gear a little too often, and spent a lot of time hanging out on gear or at the stance on top of the block trying to measure my remaining strength and psych myself up to go for the rest. Eventually I just dealt with it...

Top
#18521 - 03/21/06 04:57 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: pedestrian]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
Skied Right Gully on Tuckermans today. Hahaha powder*!!!1

ped - how's it looking up there? I'm hoiping for a mid-to-late April trip up there. Is there enough snow to last until then?
_________________________
we're all living proof that nothing lasts

Top
#18522 - 03/21/06 11:41 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: nerdom]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
I expect by then it may be down to Left Gully below the entrances, and the Chute. Some folks are saying it'll be a short season.

It was icy this weekend and things were filled in OK (with alpine ice that probably goes all the way to China) but not as well as it was in late February '05. There was some fresh pow in the form of windslab that had been blown down low. Some scarier hanging slabs high up. East Snowfields, however, were holding up surprisingly well.

I'm going up April 8th most likely and camping with a group at the field.

Top
#67675 - 03/24/13 06:17 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Smike]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1536
Loc: New Jersey
Anyone have any new climbing photos at the Gunks? This helps get one off the couch.
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#67697 - 03/28/13 01:31 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: donald perry]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Wow gunks season is underway. No snow and dry yesterday. Enjoy and be safe

Top
#67701 - 03/29/13 02:41 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: worthrussell]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Yesterday was spent climbing oodles of fat blue hero ice in the Adirondacks!

Top
#67710 - 03/31/13 02:26 AM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: RangerRob]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 227
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Yesterday was spent paddling up 1/4 mile of slabs at Stone Mountain in North Carolina!

Top
#67712 - 03/31/13 01:31 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Lucander]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Yesterday was spent climbing sweet blue plastic ice in the Catskills.

Top
#67719 - 04/01/13 04:34 PM Re: Springtime in the Gunks [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Frank Florence Online   content
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 529
Loc: moved to Bend
I put the crampons back on the shelf this week.

As RR says, there's still good ice in the Daks, including some backcountry spots. Trap Dyke is fat right now. On the other hand, a couple of weeks ago Gothics N Face was just snow, meaning snow-filled cracks and tree anchors. That's enough to put me in the mood for dry rock where I can see the quality of my gear placements.


Top
Page 1 of 5 1 2 3 4 5 >


Moderator:  webmaster 
Sponsored