Had a nice weekend up in the Adirondacks, finally giving up on the ice to concentrate fully on the rock. Ice was still possible, but time to turn the page.

I was hoping someone familiar with Poke-O could clarify on a route just left of Phase Three. Book indicates Mother's Day Variation but description doesn't seem to fit. We climbed up left past a small roof corner and face climbed straight up(with arete side-pull) to a bolt at about 20 or more feet. Up past second bolt, meander right to a nice right to left leaning flake crack angling back to the chains.

Anyone to clarify? Nice route anyway.

Thanks, Rockanice

Dear Rockandice,

I'm a local boy here in the Daks, and I can help you with your route. The flake that you climbed up high is the mother's day variation. It was originally climbed by coming in from phase three. My friend and climbing partner Dennis Luther put in the direct start, making it a separate route instead of a variation. That end of Poke-O has some great one pitch climbs. If you haven't done Certified Raw just to the left, you should. The top is wild and scary. Hope to see you out there.

Kevin

Kevin,

We thought it was a great route. Recommendable if you're solid at the grade, though a little dicy if you're not. Well placed bolt makes for exciting clip.

I assume that this didn't make it into the current edition guide book. Is there a concensus on the grade? I wonder if it's a little harder than the old variation written up in the book (which I didn't do). I am curious and maybe others will be inspired to take your direct line too.

Thanks, Brian

Brian,

The direct start was put in two or three years ago, so it didn't make the latest guide book. We think the route grade is in the mid ten range. That route is like so many others that have bolts at Poke-O. You need to have good nut placing skill to supplement the fixed gear.

Kevin

I'll second the motion on the grade. Crux is well protected,though you've earned it just to get there. Thanks for the info, and again a nice route that deserves the direct start.

I'll second the motion on the grade. Crux is well protected,though you've earned it just to get there. Thanks for the info, and again a nice route that deserves the direct start.

Rockanice - Brian