I thought I remember seeing a post about this book somewhere. It was reviewed in the NY Times and given positive reviews. I'm about 2/3rds of the way through it. The author focused on Alaska and had many first ascents.

Of particular note to us is that on one first ascent he took with him Al De Maria, local hero (hey Al!). The author trashed the other guy on this expedition (who I think later died), but Al comes out clean (he better!).

The guy was pretty accident prone, although it was back in the day when every slip was fatal. Problem was a few of them slipped right in front of him. I would definitely have freaked out if that happened to me, but he survived. Pretty good book.