|
1 registered (oenophore),
6
Guests and
1
Spider online. |
|
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
#19470 - 04/15/06 06:42 PM
Re: 5.8's in the Nears
[Re: Steven Cherry]
|
Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
|
Quote:
What's the crux move on Outer Space that would leave you hanging? I've always thought the hardest climbing was in the final corner.
The balancy steps to the left from the little arete below the first o/hang. It involves a long reach left, esp. if you're short, then a few steps leftward (a little reminiscent of Jim's Gem but going in the other direction) till you can step up and reach the holds below the big, long roof, where you traverse left again to the hanging corner, up that, then hand traverse left once more to the little belay out on the point.
The leader's protection is at the arete (used to be a fixed lost arrow). The next piece is about 10' - 12' left and above the o/h. All this is going on just above a very large roof - if the second blows that initial step left (crux) s/he gets to do a big swing below that roof.
[Disclaimer: it's been a number of years since I've done this route, so protection now may be different, esp. with micro cams, et al. However, that doesn't alter my perception of which move is the crux. While the upper corner and traverse is scrunchy and a bit awkward, it always seemed about 5.7 (and this coming from a 6' person who feels Le Plie is about 10b! ]
_________________________
- Marc
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#19471 - 04/15/06 07:44 PM
Re: 5.8's in the Nears
[Re: MarcC]
|
addict
Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 529
|
The last time I did this route - albeit some years ago - the protection for the move Mark mentions was a knifeblade. If that pulls, you might hit the ground, and I don't think there are other protection possibilities in the area. Once you do this move and enter the corner, it might be possble (with double ropes) to move back right under the roof, place a piece, and by doing so, protect the second for that part of the route.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
#19474 - 04/16/06 04:52 AM
Re: 5.8's in the Nears
[Re: Tom Breloff]
|
journeyman
Registered: 07/12/04
Posts: 56
|
Broken Sling has the scary boulder move off the ground that everyone mentioned. I don't remember anything hard about the rest of the climb.
Birdland is one of my all time favorite climbs on the planet. Much like Son of Easy O. Don't miss the second pitch. Probably stiff for someone just breaking into 5.8s.
I thought Eastertime Too was a cakewalk. But I'm 6'1" and the opening moves were easy for me. I saw a strong climber get shut down on that section.
Farewell to Arms was scary, and I've only climbed it on toprope :-) I need to lead that one of these days and see if it feels as hard.
Yellow Belly (and Yellow Ridge at 5.7) are two that I'd add to the list.
If 5.8 starts feeling easy, check out Roseland. It is a soft 5.9 with a well protected crux.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
|