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#19467 - 04/14/06 11:48 PM Re: 5.8's in the Nears [Re: RangerRob]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4117
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Or a yellow Metolius TCU.

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#19468 - 04/15/06 04:21 AM Re: 5.8's in the Nears [Re: MarcC]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1299
Loc: New York, N.Y.
What's the crux move on Outer Space that would leave you hanging? I've always thought the hardest climbing was in the final corner.

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#19469 - 04/15/06 12:53 PM Re: 5.8's in the Nears [Re: Julie]
Timbo Offline
addict

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 693
Loc: Delaware
Quote:

So what the hell am I missing?

A yellow//green hybrid?




I don't have a hybrid, so I just put a yellow & a green Alien there.

T
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#19470 - 04/15/06 06:42 PM Re: 5.8's in the Nears [Re: Steven Cherry]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

What's the crux move on Outer Space that would leave you hanging? I've always thought the hardest climbing was in the final corner.



The balancy steps to the left from the little arete below the first o/hang. It involves a long reach left, esp. if you're short, then a few steps leftward (a little reminiscent of Jim's Gem but going in the other direction) till you can step up and reach the holds below the big, long roof, where you traverse left again to the hanging corner, up that, then hand traverse left once more to the little belay out on the point.

The leader's protection is at the arete (used to be a fixed lost arrow). The next piece is about 10' - 12' left and above the o/h. All this is going on just above a very large roof - if the second blows that initial step left (crux) s/he gets to do a big swing below that roof.

[Disclaimer: it's been a number of years since I've done this route, so protection now may be different, esp. with micro cams, et al. However, that doesn't alter my perception of which move is the crux. While the upper corner and traverse is scrunchy and a bit awkward, it always seemed about 5.7 (and this coming from a 6' person who feels Le Plie is about 10b! ]
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#19471 - 04/15/06 07:44 PM Re: 5.8's in the Nears [Re: MarcC]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 529
The last time I did this route - albeit some years ago - the protection for the move Mark mentions was a knifeblade. If that pulls, you might hit the ground, and I don't think there are other protection possibilities in the area. Once you do this move and enter the corner, it might be possble (with double ropes) to move back right under the roof, place a piece, and by doing so, protect the second for that part of the route.

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#19472 - 04/16/06 12:40 AM Re: 5.8's in the Nears [Re: Dana]
caver Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/11/03
Posts: 260
Loc: High Falls
I did O.S. twice last summer, and your biggest nemesis is going to be rope drag, when you first go up the opening slab, be careful of how you set your rope to turn the cormer, because you will also be doing a couple more jogs in the small inside corner leading to the long traverse. I don't remember the gear being bad, but I do carry the 0, and 00, metolius TCU's. I think it's relatively straght forward and not hard for the grade. On the otherhand, be prepared for some serious opening unprotected moves on Broken Sling or you will have a broken tail bone!
-M

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#19473 - 04/16/06 04:07 AM Re: 5.8's in the Nears [Re: MarcC]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1299
Loc: New York, N.Y.
I agree the move you're talking about is balancy and the protection isn't so great, especially for the second, but I just don't remember it being even close to 5.8-. I guess I need to do the route again soon.

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#19474 - 04/16/06 04:52 AM Re: 5.8's in the Nears [Re: Tom Breloff]
Cornell Climber Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/12/04
Posts: 56
Broken Sling has the scary boulder move off the ground that everyone mentioned. I don't remember anything hard about the rest of the climb.

Birdland is one of my all time favorite climbs on the planet. Much like Son of Easy O. Don't miss the second pitch. Probably stiff for someone just breaking into 5.8s.

I thought Eastertime Too was a cakewalk. But I'm 6'1" and the opening moves were easy for me. I saw a strong climber get shut down on that section.

Farewell to Arms was scary, and I've only climbed it on toprope :-) I need to lead that one of these days and see if it feels as hard.

Yellow Belly (and Yellow Ridge at 5.7) are two that I'd add to the list.

If 5.8 starts feeling easy, check out Roseland. It is a soft 5.9 with a well protected crux.


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#19475 - 04/16/06 05:34 PM Re: 5.8's in the Nears [Re: Tom Breloff]
Tom Breloff Offline
newbie

Registered: 03/28/06
Posts: 27
Loc: NYC
I climbed Alphose this weekend, as suggested by some of you. I thought it was a pretty good choice. I belayed right below the notch, which turned out to be a pain. I might have skipped it, but I placed too much gear coming up the corner, and I was out of slings. Climbing through the crux, I stopped to place gear and pumped myself out, but still pulled through to claim the onsight. Next time I climb it, I'll probably belay from the first ledge and skip the hanging belay, and I'll also avoid placing gear during the crux.

Thanks to everyone for the help! Here I come, Modern Times!

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#19476 - 04/16/06 08:23 PM Re: 5.8's in the Nears [Re: Tom Breloff]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2187
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Quote:


Thanks to everyone for the help! Here I come, Modern Times!




Good luck on Modern Times - if you want it to stay 5.8, then stay away from that tree! Keep going right at the crux and you'll be fine.

Jannette
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If you can't be a good example, then you'll have to be a horrible warning.

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