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#19478 - 04/17/06 01:24 PM
Re: 5.8's in the Nears
[Re: Steven Cherry]
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Pooh-Bah *
Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
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congrats! But you might want to get Mainline and Son of Easy O under your belt before jumping on Modern Times! ah, what the hell do I know? If you've got the sac, just friggin' go for it, bro!
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we're all living proof that nothing lasts
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#19479 - 04/17/06 07:10 PM
Re: 5.8's in the Nears
[Re: fear]
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newbie
Registered: 08/20/05
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Alpine Diversions is also a good one. A bit pumpy but good smaller gear and a fixed nut below the crux roof. Nothing but air to hit.
-Fear
You can thank me for that fixed nut. I did it about 3 weeks ago. If anyone extracts it and wants to return it, I'll offer a nice reward.
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#19480 - 04/17/06 07:16 PM
Re: 5.8's in the Nears
[Re: Steven Cherry]
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newbie
Registered: 03/28/06
Posts: 27
Loc: NYC
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Quote:
I don't see the advantage of linking pitches 2 and 3
In my case, I placed so much gear on the 1st pitch that I was out of slings (and most of my cams) by the time I made it to the crux. I might have skipped the hanging belay all together if I had enough gear to finish the climb. I suppose the hanging belay wouldn't have been so bad if I actually hung, instead of trying to sit on the ledge.
By the way...I don't quite have the sac for Modern Times yet...I think that will be one of the last 5.8's to attempt, especially since I suck at roofs.
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#19481 - 04/17/06 08:18 PM
Re: 5.8's in the Nears
[Re: Tom Breloff]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
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If we're talking about which 5.8's are hardest, IMO Bonnie's is a lot harder than Modern Times, at least if you do MT properly, which means staying on a sequence of holds dictated by where the route goes, not by where you want the gear to be, and moving quickly.
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#19482 - 04/18/06 01:14 AM
Re: 5.8's in the Nears
[Re: pedestrian]
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member
Registered: 06/27/03
Posts: 189
Loc: New England
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'Cause Bonnie's is a solid 5.9.
-Fear
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#19483 - 04/18/06 01:43 AM
Re: 5.8's in the Nears
[Re: fear]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
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#19484 - 04/18/06 12:44 PM
Re: 5.8's in the Nears
[Re: pedestrian]
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Pooh-Bah *
Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
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Just MHO, but I think MT is harder than Bonnie's. I led Bonnie's long before I jumped on MT. In fact, I'd say that MT is harder than Bonnie's Direct even. For me, anyway.
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we're all living proof that nothing lasts
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#19485 - 04/18/06 02:39 PM
Re: 5.8's in the Nears
[Re: nerdom]
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newbie
Registered: 05/24/05
Posts: 25
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Modern Times is pumpy but well protected. Great route, Favorite 5.7+ at the Gunks.. Not one nmove on it harder than 5.7+...just a string of pumpy moves,. All jugs.. Ape Call is harder and so is Casablanca. Birdland is well protected at the crux. Just slam in a yellow alien or TCU. Bomber. Best 5.8 face climb in the Nears. Exquisite movement.
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#19486 - 04/18/06 05:16 PM
Re: 5.8's in the Nears
[Re: B_9]
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enthusiast
Registered: 08/19/04
Posts: 210
Loc: north by northeast (from jerse...
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Quote:
Modern Times is pumpy but well protected. Great route, Favorite 5.7+ at the Gunks.. Not one nmove on it harder than 5.7+...just a string of pumpy moves,. All jugs.. Ape Call is harder and so is Casablanca. Birdland is well protected at the crux. Just slam in a yellow alien or TCU. Bomber. Best 5.8 face climb in the Nears. Exquisite movement.
Ape Call is not harder Then the second pitch of MT. (maybe the first pitch...)
your just being a sillyhead
but, it is a spectacular climb in its own right, get past the start and the top will have you all gitty.
Not recommended for new 8 leaders.
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