I backed off Outer Space the first time I tried to lead it because of how hard it was to get the pin clipped and how scary it was to start that traverse seeing no more gear ahead of you. The trick, to both, is to ignore all the chalked jugs on the right and approach the pin from the left. Not only is the pin waaaaay easier to clip for us short folks from the left, but there aren't any hard moves left after you clip it. You do have to go a ways before the next gear but it's all pretty solid from there and if you step up to the horizontal and place as far right as you can it's not that bad for the second (who should clean the pin from the left as well).

I seem to recall that a tricam works at the crux of Birdland too. I usually get two pieces in there, I think. Also, if you find the secret hold at the "crux" then the crux really is down there at the first pin, especially for shorter folks.

Tom I climbed Alphonse on the same weekend and i think we went after you.
I did it in a single pitch, it was great , but next time i will carry more double runners to lessen the drag

Michael H

while waiting for farewell to arms i witnessed leader fall at the start of birdland, he had a deck touch down, due to the fact that belayer stumbled and lost footing...
Message need a belayer with a keen eye to your move on that opening sequence

Now that I've been on a few 5.8's, I figured I'd share my experience:

Alphonse - The crux is not that hard, but it's somewhat commiting. The rest of the climb is pretty straightforward. Skip the hanging belay.

Eastertime Too (P1) - Good gear, and the climbing isn't that bad. I felt pretty safe, although still pumped.

Birdland - Awesome face climb. I cruised both cruxes on the first pitch only to take a fall making the short traverse around the arete...boy did I feel stupid. I came back another day to onsight the second pitch.

Drunkards Delight - Twice I did this route, and both times I was more scared on the roof than the crux. The crux is balancy, but I can take my time figuring out the exact sequence, whereas the roof forces you to "just do it".

Arrow - This is a safe/easy 5.8 IMO. The roof has good gear and isn't too hard, and the final crux has a "hidden" crimper that I can reach.

Moxie - This started so well, until I stood up in the corner and realized I had no gear and no handholds. I spent 10 minutes with just my right thumb keeping me on the rock until I figured out the sequence to get out. I think it will be much easier on the repeat attempt.

Annie Oh! - Except for the 5.7R first pitch, this climb was awesome. I think I had a shaky brown tricam and a black alien as my only gear 40 feet up the climb, and the situation didn't improve for another 15 feet. Do people normally climb this, or do you climb P1 of Three Doves instead?

Son of Easy O (P1) - Sweet! This is the best face climb I've ever been on! I took a couple short falls on the opening move, protected by an equalized black alien and small nut. I came back another day to climb it clean. Both times I didn't have the strength (balls) to climb the second pitch, but I'll be coming back to it soon.

Morning After (P1) - The crux was somewhat awkward and reachy, but not too difficult. We rapped off the first belay because the 2nd pitch overhang was swarming with wasps. It looked nice, though.

Hyjek's Horror (TR) - I toproped this yesterday, and lets just say that I'm very glad I didn't lead it. Oh, the horror!


High on my tick list: Mainline, Pas De Deux, Airy Area, Farewell to Arms, Son of Easy O (P2), Three Doves, Broken Sling, Double Crack, and Modern Times (roughly in that order)

Thanks again for all the advice.

Tom

Annie Oh is one of my favorite climbs in The Trapps.
And Annie is one of my favorite people's in New Paltz.

The second pitch of Annie Oh is just amazing. The color and texture of the rock. The moves.
Just a great pich!
BUT the first pitch.....YIKES.
After leading the first pitch a few times and feeling totally unprotected, I finally was able to sew it up with a number of small cams, to the point that I actually felt secure and proud too, proud that I could actually get enough gear in that pitch.

A great climb. A fitting tribute/legacy to the first two who climbed it. Ivan and Annie.

(Here comes the killjoy )

What is the title of this thread now?

People lead P1 of Annie Oh because it has a REPUTATION. It's the sort of thing that once you've done it you don't necessarily have to do it again, although once you've done it you kind of know the trick. The trick is that you get no gear for 40 feet and it mellows after that.

I'd agree about P2 of Son of Easy O. It's not tricky. Three Doves is a 9 in some books and is at least PG and maybe worse at the start of the second pitch. I'd leave that one for moving into 9s. The trick to MT is that it's got a trick. If done right, it's easily 5.8 but you'll never do it right on the first try. Make sure your second can follow it or at least knows how to prusik. Many a second has had an epic old time under the MT roof.