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#19507 - 06/16/06 02:17 AM Re: 5.8's in the Nears [Re: greyalien]
ScottR Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/27/05
Posts: 99
Quote:

Are you totally clueless as to how a route gets its grade?




No, but obviously you are. A first ascent party with skills and a sense of adventure comes along and climbs a line that strikes them as interesting. They stick a number on it. They tell their friends, who also have skills, about it. They hem and haw with the FA team and finally come to agreement about the number. The route gets a reputation. It goes in a guide book. Years later herds of gumby hacks fall their way to the top. They all gather around singing kum-by-ya and whine about the difficulty of the route and decide to call it a bigger number to stroke their delicate egos. Years later a new guide book comes out with the new grade. Voila ! Everything becomes 2 grades harder.

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#19508 - 06/17/06 01:29 AM Re: 5.8's in the Nears [Re: ScottR]
greyalien Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/06/05
Posts: 84
Loc: Central Nj
Quote:

Quote:

Are you totally clueless as to how a route gets its grade?




No, but obviously you are. A first ascent party with skills and a sense of adventure comes along and climbs a line that strikes them as interesting. They stick a number on it. They tell their friends, who also have skills, about it. They hem and haw with the FA team and finally come to agreement about the number. The route gets a reputation. It goes in a guide book. Years later herds of gumby hacks fall their way to the top. They all gather around singing kum-by-ya and whine about the difficulty of the route and decide to call it a bigger number to stroke their delicate egos. Years later a new guide book comes out with the new grade. Voila ! Everything becomes 2 grades harder.




That really only happens at manicured crags... like the trapps.
_________________________
- Grey

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#19509 - 06/19/06 01:36 PM Re: 5.8's in the Nears [Re: Tom Breloff]
Tom Breloff Offline
newbie

Registered: 03/28/06
Posts: 27
Loc: NYC
Quote:

Now that I've been on a few 5.8's, I figured I'd share my experience:




I have a few more to add!

Son of Easy O (P2) - Awesome! Combined with the sweet face climbing below, this is now my favorite climb in the gunks.

Three Doves (P2) - I thought the final moves through the flake would be the crux, but it was actually the blank face below the roof. I screwed up my feet, and ended up deadpointing to a hold during that sequence. Fun fun!

Casablanca - This gets the award for the most wild roof I've ever been on. I can't claim the onsight because I rested on my gear before I pulled the roof, but I still climbed it without falling.

What a great day of climbing!

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