Hi!

Does anyone know anything about this route? I got weathered out in October, but am going back in a little over a week. I did a little more research this time though, and I think it has 1/4" bolts. I was always under the impression that you should avoid these at all cost, but a lot of people seem to climb this route (usually a line!).

Also, you have to rap down the route, or one next to it. How do you share a 3 bolt anchor with a group that may be coming up after you??

Anything else I might not have considered??

Thanks for the help!!!

Prince of Darkness has recently (within the last month) been rebolted. No more manky bolts. Some recommend a smattering of gear to supplement the bolts. Check out the discussion on rec.climbing or check Dawn's website (www.tradgirl.com) for a summary. One might ask why you're attempting a six-pitch climb and rap with all hanging belays if you don't know how to share a belay with another party.

Timbo

I climbed this route last november and it still had the old 1/4" bolts. There are two 5.9 pitches that take gear (smaller cams and medium nuts if my memory serves). Also, on the second 5.9 pitch, there are some hangerless bolts that you need to use nuts on. The raps are pretty straightforward, just make sure you carry double ropes. The route to the right of it (I think it is called dream of wild turkeys) is fairly popular, and I wouldn't count on using those rap rings because chances are, if someone is following you up Prince of Darkness, someone will be on the other route. THat said, I liked climbing the route, but the moves are sooo repetitive. Small crimps on plates. After leading all of the face pitches, the cracks are a real treat, though.

Have fun!




David