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#66720 - 10/09/12 10:46 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Dana]
Rickster Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 853
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
Originally Posted By: Dana
I only did this once, in late 1979. What is that pitch like to lead now?


Still looks like a candidate for double ropes. eek

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#66721 - 10/09/12 11:59 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Rickster]
cfrac Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 462
It's quite a nice line, then we finished on some 10+ G roof to the left off the GT ledge which must have been done previously but it's not in Swain or Williams. It made for a nice link up.

Properly slung:
Still rated R though.

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#66722 - 10/10/12 11:19 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: cfrac]
cfrac Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 462
Speaking of that final pitch not in the guidebook, has anyone else done it? It's the roof 15-20 feet left of the final pitch of Gaston/Gorilla My Dreams. It is the notch about 2/3 of the way out the Gaston variation traverse. I'm just shocked it's not recorded, especially because the gear is good and it's an obvious line.

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#66723 - 10/10/12 02:56 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: cfrac]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Hi Chris,

Check your Swain guide if you have one. He has it written up as Gaston Direct, 5.10, FA unknown. Ivan also has something similar in his first (1981) Shanwangunk Grit guide, and he indicates that he did the FA in 1975.

Dana

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#66731 - 10/11/12 07:21 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Dana]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
And you thought you were being a pioneer!

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#66797 - 10/22/12 09:48 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: RangerRob]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 713
Loc: NYC
New one:

_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#66799 - 10/23/12 12:57 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: SethG]
Frank Florence Offline
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 528
Loc: moved to Bend
There's enough lichen there to make me think it's Casanova.

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#66800 - 10/23/12 01:49 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: Frank Florence]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 713
Loc: NYC
You got it, Frank, good call! No chalk highway on this one. Nice pitch, I really liked it. Watch out for loose rock once you get around the corner, though. And on the ledge right below the crux too, lots of little rocks there.
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#66810 - 10/23/12 11:50 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: SethG]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Jesus Frank, that was impressive! I was going to guess one of the upper pitches in the Stubai To You area.

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#66812 - 10/24/12 12:35 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: RangerRob]
curmudgeon Offline
addict

Registered: 10/27/10
Posts: 466

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