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#2067 - 04/25/01 10:15 AM Rumney conditions
kevin boyle Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 276
Loc: NY, Westport
Someone mentioned Rumney in a previous post and I wonder if the cliffs there are drying out? Where do you people stay/camp when you are not within driving distance from your home?

Thanks


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#2068 - 04/25/01 03:03 PM Re: Rumney conditions [Re: kevin boyle]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
you can camp across the street from the main parking lot in the peoples field most of the time. they have the house next to the red barn and are really rather friendly new england types.


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#2069 - 04/25/01 03:03 PM Re: Rumney conditions [Re: kevin boyle]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Yes, they're dry, and already completely overrun by big outing-club groups of newbies TRing at every crag. I wonder when a concession on guiding will start.

There are 2 or 3 commercial campgrounds nearby, and the Whites aren't far either. As of last year, the RCA was trying to discourage car-camping in the parking lot; I can't imagine the folks across the street would be too psyched about a field full of climbers every weekend, so I'd be a bit hesitant to stealth there. Too high-impact, ultimately.

I've heard all kinds of things about when the new guidebook is due, but it's not out yet.


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#2070 - 04/25/01 03:05 PM Re: Rumney conditions [Re: Julie]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
ward is really sitting on it for some reason. he told me last april it would be printed by august...


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#2071 - 04/26/01 01:45 AM Re: Rumney conditions [Re: Julie]
kevin boyle Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 276
Loc: NY, Westport
Julie,

Thanks for the heads up about the crowds. I would love to come down before blackfly season and if I do I may take off a couple of week days to avoid the crowds. In case you didn't remember my last name, I'm the one that climbed with you at the gunks a few weeks ago.

Kev


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#2072 - 04/26/01 03:15 PM Re: Rumney conditions [Re: kevin boyle]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Hi Kevin - yep, I remember you!
Come out to Rumney soon - mosquitos are already popping up, and the blackflies can't be far behind. If you need partners, give me a shout, I know a few people who might be able to get out on a weekday.


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#2073 - 05/02/01 11:50 AM Re: Rumney conditions [Re: kevin boyle]
Anonymous
Unregistered



Was at Rumney Saturday 4/28. Conditions were fine. Man,
is that schist tough on the hands after a winter of just ice !
There were patches of snow where the sun doesn't touch.
The belayer was more comfortable in a jacket.

Geezer Bill


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#2074 - 05/04/01 03:41 PM Re: Rumney conditions [Re: Julie]
Edgy Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/17/00
Posts: 393
Hi,

The mass top-roping of routes can always be a problem at any crag... and Rumney is no worse any any other. I think a very good way to deal with it is to be pushy, but polite. There are only so many routes and climbers are going to have to share. Since almost all routes have bomber fixed anchors, it's all the more reason to have to share. (You're not using somebody elses' rattty sling wrapped around a 2" sapling.) The people who've placed the bolts (all at their own expense) have been pretty unselfish, so there no reason for the users of the bolts to be selfish. I also don't have a problem pointing that out.... but politely.

On easier routes (well, ones that are easy to me.... ) personally, I have no problem asking if I can pull the Tr rope and lead the route, providing I put their rope back up when I'm done. Again, you have to be firm, but very polite.... I may ask (depending on a lot of factors,) if I can "take a run'" on the already set up rope....again done in my best polite manner....

If it a harder route, that I may flail on (read, "working a route," in sport-dog speak) for a while, it's generally easy to engage the people on the route to see if you can climb with them. You get to chat, work out the beta, you might even get to met a new friend. (I feel like Mr. Rogers... "Will you be my friend???")

If individuals, outing club groups and the guides who use the area are exposed to this type of sharing behavior right from the start, it will become the tradition of the area... "It's just the way we do it here...."

As for "stealth" camping in the lot... I see the enforcement ranger (the guy with the gun...) there every weekend morning.... early. You can take your chances.... but, I think it's a $50 fine....

I don't think W. Smith is "sitting" on the Guide Book.... I'm positive he wants it to be done even more than anyone else.

One last thought, when we complain about the crowds... remember, we are the crowd...

edgy, aka Polite Man


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#2075 - 05/04/01 05:02 PM Re: Rumney conditions [Re: Edgy]
Anonymous
Unregistered


I heard the people across the street or close by, let you camp in their field. they charge like $5 or something.

Not 100% sure so don't count on it.


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