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#20758 - 05/23/06 06:25 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: talus]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Talus, still not sure, but this one does have some features of the top pitch of Cruise Control (small roof to vertical crack in shallow corner).

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#20759 - 05/23/06 06:36 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: rg@ofmc]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
Quote:

Talus, still not sure, but this one does have some features of the top pitch of Cruise Control (small roof to vertical crack in shallow corner).




rg is correct. the black and white is also Cruise Control.
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#20760 - 05/23/06 06:45 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: talus]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
Quote:






rg any guess on this one. i think you did this route last year w/ Bragg. i was out there that day and was worried about the 2 guys having an epic out in millbrook. then only to learn it was you and Bragg climbing.
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#20761 - 05/24/06 05:22 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: Alex]
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 192
Time's up, and nobody guessed correct. I guess the middle of the Near Trapps is unfamiliar to a lot of people. The answer is.......... Zachariah !! Used to be 5.6 but now its 5.8

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#20762 - 05/24/06 06:13 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: rg@ofmc]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
This is a slightly different type of puzzle. I don't know the name of this route. Its at Lost City, 5.10, maybe 5.11 at the poorly protected start. From where Bragg is in the picture, it goes more or less straight up and over the overhang. There are rappel slings immediately over the roof.


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#20763 - 05/24/06 10:01 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: rg@ofmc]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
RG's LC route - if there's a huge inside corner to your right, that's the route I heard called Cars That Eat People.

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#20764 - 05/24/06 12:02 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Mike Rawdon]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Now now...are we naming LC routes and providing images of them??? Against the rules. You shall be banished from the kingdom!

RR

P.S. I'm pretty sure that's not Cars That Eat People

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#20765 - 05/24/06 12:05 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: RangerRob]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
if I was as big a geekhead as the rest of you I could figure out how to attach a picture to the post. I'mnot, so I can't

RR


Edited by RangerRob (05/24/06 12:08 PM)

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#20766 - 05/24/06 04:22 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: talus]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Talus: "rg any guess on this one. i think you did this route last year w/ Bragg. i was out there that day and was worried about the 2 guys having an epic out in millbrook. then only to learn it was you and Bragg climbing."

The route we did that day was Side Pocket---with a variation called Writhe to the Occasion because I couldn't for the life of me figure out where Side Pocket was supposed to go at a point where the "variation" was totally obvious. I can't recognize any part of the route from your picture.

Our only epic was finding the route. We began by climbing thirty or forty feet of dirty loose 5.easy, which got progressively 5.not-so-easy, only to realize, teetering around on a slab with no decent holds or anchor possibilities, that we were probably in the wrong spot. Discretion set in and we traversed to a tree and rappelled back to the Death Ledge rather than reversing the unroped scramble. We had already done other routes and by the time we found Side Pocket for sure it was relatively late in the day.

Once on Side Pocket, we were slowed by route-finding and protecting, and not only at the spot I mentioned above. I remember one 5.8-5.9 section I ended up protecting with two small Aliens, placed at the same level but twenty feet apart. Do not try this with a single rope.

The idea of watching out for other climbers at Millbrook is a mark of decency and reflects, I think, the generally more civil attitude that comes with low population density. Thanks for your concern.

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#20767 - 05/24/06 06:39 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: rg@ofmc]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
RG correct: Rich Romano (who happens to be my favorite climber, ok Rich ties w/ Peter Croft) near the top of Side Pocket

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