Lisa,
Interestingly enough while I was at J tree this year I was loading up on fuel in JTree the town and was with my partner who has a gunks sticker on his car (and NY plates). Anyway, met this woman in the van behind us on line who asked us about the Gunks. Apparently she always heard how wonderful it was and we just added on to that.
She then asked us what we thought of the ratings at Josh. Well, since we are e. coast climber who can't climb cracks to save our butts, we thought they were pretty right on but just a different type of climbing.
She then told us that she is good friends with Alan Bartlett and he would ask her to climb with him and work on a consensus grade. Really nice folks.
Anyway, Vogel will be out with a new guide soon and you can get a copy of his old one still through him or you can pick up a Bartlett guide, the sportclimbing guide (hardly "sporty"), or the bouldering guide.
You also can just ask one of the hundreds of climbers around you. It's akin to being on the carrage road and asking to see someone's guidebook for a second. And folks will point you the right way.
Also, at night in the campgrounds you can peruse guidebooks and write down areas and routes for the next day.
You would probably like the DQ wall.
Enjoy it.
Cheers,
Christian :?)