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#21568 - 06/13/06 07:47 PM Re: Adirondack Rock - a new rock climbing guide [Re: Jim Lawyer]
fallenglass Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/01/03
Posts: 276
Loc: cornwall
i think a guide book can really affect the culture of a climbing area. It can choose to celebrate some traditions and tone down others. of particular concern to me is the use of fixed anchors -- i'd hate to see bolted sport routes appearing on the spider's web, for example.

mellor's approach is an excellent one to follow.

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#21569 - 06/13/06 08:09 PM Re: Adirondack Rock - a new rock climbing guide [Re: Aya]
Tom Breloff Offline
newbie

Registered: 03/28/06
Posts: 27
Loc: NYC
Quote:

I don't understand your complaint - the 10 year old guide didn't detail the "new" approach? That the "old" approach was too difficult? Not well described?



The person I talked to seemed to imply that the "old" trail is never used anymore...maybe they were wrong (and maybe my wife and I were just plain lost in the woods). The "complaint" was more that I'm sure there is information in the Mellor guide which is no longer accurate (or was never accurate), and it couldn't hurt have some updated descriptions. Even just a similarly vague, but rewritten, description may help in route finding.

Long story short...I'll be looking forward to using both guides when I climb in the Dacks.

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#21570 - 06/13/06 10:16 PM Re: Adirondack Rock - a new rock climbing guide [Re: mworking]
Jim Lawyer Offline
member

Registered: 08/23/00
Posts: 157
Loc: Pompey, NY
Quote:

Is the Mellor Guide inadequate?




Fair question, which is answered on the AdirondackRock web site. To summarize, I've been using the Mellor guide for years, and it is adequate for the information it contains. The new guide will include new crags (and there are many), new routes on existing crags, updated approach information, updated descent information, stories, photos, and lots of other goodies.

Thanks for all the good comments.

Jim

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#21571 - 06/14/06 02:55 AM Re: Adirondack Rock - a new rock climbing guide [Re: Jim Lawyer]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2778
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Thanks Jim. It will be great to see the new book. What's been going on at Azure Mtn. I love the Daks.

Chris (formerly Bill) Moratz
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#21572 - 06/14/06 03:42 AM Re: Adirondack Rock - a new rock climbing guide [Re: phlan]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Quote:

Thanks Jim. It will be great to see the new book. What's been going on at Azure Mtn.




Now I can understand people driving to Chapel Pond, the High Peaks, maybe even to Poko and Moss Cliff. But Azure Mt is the northernmost ADK rock. That's quite a ways to go from anywhere downstate. I surprised to see anyone mention it here.

(to the rest of you, Azure is a 250 ft overhanging granite face near the northen edge of the ADK Park boundary, near St Regis Falls as you head to Potsdam. HUGE aid potential, and some activity there)

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#21573 - 06/14/06 12:44 PM Re: Adirondack Rock - a new rock climbing guide [Re: Mike Rawdon]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2778
Loc: Gardiner, NY
I liked Azure, admitted most people would never go there but I was attending engineering school at Clarkson so it was convenient.

That headwall is stupendous, really blank looking and kind of gently overhanging. It should be bolted, bring in Chris Sharma and there might be a couple of 5.14's on there. That'll put the ADK's on the map for sure.
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Support Your Local Farmer!

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#21574 - 06/14/06 12:48 PM Re: Adirondack Rock - a new rock climbing guide [Re: phlan]
fallenglass Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/01/03
Posts: 276
Loc: cornwall
ok, push my buttons why don't you! (actually, i'm thinking of doing a little sport climbing at west point today for lunch -- i know, i'm a hypocrite)

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#21575 - 06/14/06 08:12 PM Re: Adirondack Rock - a new rock climbing guide [Re: phlan]
Frank Florence Online   content
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 528
Loc: moved to Bend
Jim,

Great to learn about your project. You've mentioned to the two aspects I'd most like to see in a new Dacks guide: updated approach and descent information. Azure Mountain is a perfect example. The cabin's gone, the trail's been modified, and the distances in Mellor's guide were/are inaccurate. Close enough to get you to the place, but definitely in need of ground-truthing.

As far as a need for a new guide, I think the experience I had over the Memorial Day weekend points out why one is in order. Because of the extensive peregrine closure on Poke-O at the time, as well as on Moss and Washbowl cliffs, it seemed to me that there were an awful lot of climbers congregated on just a few crags along Route 73. True, that attests to a lack of imagination or an unwillingness to hike a little by the folks lining up. But I have to believe that a new guide will encourage more of us to head for new places to explore and new lines to try.

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#21576 - 06/16/06 01:58 AM Re: Adirondack Rock - a new rock climbing guide [Re: Frank Florence]
ScottR Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/27/05
Posts: 99
Make the hard sell. Lots of nice pics of classic routes at obscure cliffs and few pics of routes at crowded crags will help spread the crowds out.

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#21577 - 06/16/06 02:16 AM Re: Adirondack Rock - a new rock climbing guide [Re: ScottR]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
Just stop by Rock and River one morning and have Ed P dangle pic after pic of hardly known obscure routes off the beaten path and drool.


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