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#21747 - 06/23/06 04:52 PM Re: What if... [Re: nerdom]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

The Irene's approach is not that bad, and for a day trip, you're not carrying much weight. A fit person sans overnight pack could do the hike in 1 1/2 hours.



You're an animal! ~5 miles and over a 2500' elevation gain, with about 1200' of it occurring in 1.5 miles of murderous switchbacks, notorious for being thigh-burningly steep? I think it took me an hour and a half just to get up the switchbacks!
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#21748 - 06/23/06 05:14 PM Re: What if... [Re: MarcC]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
haha! dislaimer - it was an hour and a half (give or take 5-10 minutes) of actual hiking. We rested a couple times for a few minutes. Oh yeah, and now that I think of it, we were totally acclimatized, having done The Snaz and Moran's DSB in the previous 3 days (including a night up on the wall @ 10,000 feet)! haha!

Jannette: also check out Leemouse's very good Tetons TR for The Snaz and Irene's info (MarcC - she did the approach to Irene's in 2 hours! with Rolo Garibotti! haha!).

At any rate, it's still a totally doable car-to-car climb, especially if you're going with a guide, as I believe Jannette said she was, since you're spared the extra energy output associated with leading!

one more thing - the worst part about the switchbacks on the Apex trail is the friggin' dust! Once you gain the canyon proper, it's pretty sweet!
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#21749 - 06/23/06 06:38 PM Re: What if... [Re: nerdom]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2470
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Nerdom:"with all due respect to our resident legend, RG, the East Face of Teewinot is simply a 4th class scramble. Sure, you top out on a cool, tiny peak, with a stunning view of Mt. Owen, the North Ridge of the Grand Teton and other stuff, but the "climbing" such as it is, is nothing (and it tops out at better than 12,000 feet)."

Thanks for the respect, but I think I've pretty much blown whatever "legendary" status I might have enjoyed by continuing to climb long after I'm particularly good at it. Still havin' fun though, headin' into my 50th year of climbing...

As for Teewinot, the Exum Guides take is, "Some say that with its amazing views and exposure, Teewinot Mountain (12,325 feet) is the most spectacular summit in the range." They grade the East Face II, 5.4 (but almost all is indeed scrambling), and the East Ridge (my primary recommendation) III, 5.8 with "approximately six pitches of excellent rock climbing in cracks and chimneys."

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#21750 - 06/23/06 08:45 PM Re: What if... [Re: rg@ofmc]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
I love teewinot, and i liked the east ridge a lot.

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#21751 - 06/24/06 07:58 PM Re: What if... [Re: nerdom]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2225
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Quote:

Jannette:

The Irene's approach is not that bad, and for a day trip, you're not carrying much weight. A fit person sans overnight pack could do the hike in 1 1/2 hours. Also, there's water practically all the way up, so no need to carry much on the approach.





You said a fit person... ummm, if you're talking about me, then there's where the problem is! I've been aerobically challenged even when I was a child.

Jannette

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#21752 - 06/26/06 12:15 AM Re: What if.... [Re: Jannette]
Daniel Offline
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
I recently got back from a week in Jackson and did guided ascents of both The Snaz and Irene's Arete. The Snaz was great, a fine, rewarding route, a terrific change of pace for this Gunkie, and I didn't much care that it didn't go to the top of anything--especially since the tops of things still had lots of snow on them, and still will for some time. I did it on my 3rd day out and felt that altitude wasn't much of a factor; the approach was about an hour and a half, I'd say.

I did Irene's on the 5th day, and the approach took us 3+ hours (my guide said I was hiking pretty well, and I don't think it was just to make me feel good). If I have my stats correct, Jackson Hole this winter got its third highest snowfall total since they've been keeping records. Saw plenty of ski tracks above the Meadows, and we had to cross several snow slopes to get to the climb, including one that was rock-hard (already had steps across it, but I didn't want to fall; my guide couldn't even pound in his ice axe halfway across to provide an additional protection point). We descended via Amphetheater and Surprise lakes, requiring negotiating still more snow which didn't clear out entirely until we were below the lakes. Despite the snow, we got back to the car before the party behind us who was planning on returning via the gully descent. It was close to a 12 hour day car-to-car, and I don't think we wasted a whole lot of time, though we were certainly slowed somewhat by the snow. I did feel the altitude on the climb: that 5.8 exit with a pack at almost 11,000 ft. definitely felt hard, even though I had been out hiking or climbing the prior four days.

Comparing it to The Snaz, I thought The Snaz had more great moves on it, while Irene's provided more of a full-day adventure with an extremely nice climb that's worth the time to get to if you've got the legs and the lungs for it (I was very beat the next day!). And The Snaz blows away Guides Wall, IMO; lots more great climbing with only a marginally longer approach.

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#21753 - 06/26/06 06:03 PM Re: What if.... [Re: Daniel]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
One more thing on Irene's and The Snaz:

This is John Bragg's take on these two climbs (from the Exum Guides website):

• Irene’s Arete: Six to eight pitches of difficult, exposed climbing on beautiful rock follow this spectacluar fin of rock which rises high above the mountain scenery of Garnet Canyon. Arguably one of the world’s top ten climbs. Rating, 5.8.


• The Snaz: This steep wall of rock which soars above Death Canyon yields only to an experienced, fit climber. The climb features nine steep, sustained pitches of up to 5.9 to 5.10 climbing.

You'll recall that our own LesterLeblanc availed himself of Mr. Bragg's services on Irene's a couple years back, and spoke very highly of the experience (see his Tetons TR in the Trip Report section).
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#21754 - 06/27/06 06:00 PM Re: What if.... [Re: nerdom]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Quote:

One more thing on Irene's and The Snaz:

This is John Bragg's take on these two climbs (from the Exum Guides website):

• Irene’s Arete: ....... Arguably one of the world’s top ten climbs. Rating, 5.8.





I know its advertising but I wouldn't even put it in the top 20 climbs I've done (which right now the Rostrum in Yosemite is at the top, but I'm desperately looking for something to knock that out of its spot )

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#21755 - 06/28/06 01:25 PM Re: What if.... [Re: Chas]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
chas let's go do positive vibrations
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#21756 - 06/28/06 01:40 PM Re: What if.... [Re: talus]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
I'd be up for it in the mid-end of August if you are in the Sierras. I love the Incrediable Hulk....

Don't know how you are climbing but I am also looking for a partner for Rainbow Wall, Original Route or Rainbow Country which goes 5.12a/b or 5.12d in Red Rocks


Edited by Chas (06/28/06 01:55 PM)

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