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#21717 - 06/15/06 07:03 PM What if....
JoeKayak Offline
old hand

Registered: 06/21/02
Posts: 970
Loc: Manhattan had one weekend in late July or late August to fly anywhere in the lower 48 states to do a single amazing climb (mountaineering route or rock, 5.9 or less) with a local guide at an elevation low enough to not require acclimatizing (roughly 11,000' or less I guess), where/what would it be?

Logistically, it could be a flight out of NYC on Friday afternoon, with one of the following:

climb Saturday, morning start, climb Sunday too.
approach Saturday for pre-dawn climbing start Sunday.

Redeye back to NYC Sunday night. enquiring mind wants to know.

#21718 - 06/15/06 07:17 PM Re: What if.... [Re: JoeKayak]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
If I had only one weekend, I don't think I'd spend half of it in an airplane.

But that's just me... I never go anywhere.

#21719 - 06/15/06 07:39 PM Re: What if.... [Re: JoeKayak]
andrew Offline


Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
i'd probably say the petit grepon in rocky mountain national park. its 5.8, spectacular, and only a 2 hour drive from denver international airport. summit is at around 12K i think.

keep in mind that a lot of the classic alpine routes in the west are really tough car to car, like anything on the grand teton or in the wind rivers, and much of the cascades.

anywhere in the mountains you may very well be shut down by weather.
This isn't an office. It's Hell with fluorescent lighting.

#21720 - 06/15/06 08:07 PM Re: What if.... [Re: JoeKayak]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
The Petit Grepon suggestion is a good one (a friend of mine just climbed it this past weekend). But I'd also suggest going out to the Tetons and doing Irene's Arete. Fantastic climb in a spectacular setting. Can be done in a day car to car. And Jackson Hole is just a very cool place to spend your non-climbing time.
we're all living proof that nothing lasts

#21721 - 06/15/06 09:22 PM Re: What if.... [Re: JoeKayak]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote: an elevation low enough to not require acclimatizing (roughly 11,000' or less I guess)...

Everyone is different and YMMV of course, but when I lived on the East coast and was in my mid-30's (ie: 15 years younger), it would take me about 2-3 days of sleeping at 8500' and climbing between 9K - 10K to not feel shitty.

Regarding some of the suggestions, Petit Grepon is stellar and tops out at 11K. The down side is the ~5 mile approach. A possible alternative is something on Hallet's Peak as the approach is quite a bit shorter. Even maybe one of the longer routes at Lumpy Ridge (the names escape me right now).

I see Irene's Arete was mentioned - an alternative there might be Baxter's Pinnacle/Guide's Wall, again because of the shorter approach.

Regular Route on Fairview Dome in Tuolumne Meadows. Possibly another Meadows classic as well, depending on timing: South Crack, Great White Book (5.6 easy but pretty unique), Cryin' Time Again, Dike Route, West Crack, Hobbit Book....there are so many to choose from! (I'd check on flights in and out of Reno and Fresno as well as SFO)

White Punks On Dope in the Sierra Needles.

One or two of the classics at Tahquitz - Open Book, Finger Trip, Super Pooper.

Although you did say anywhere, is New Hampshire too close to home? What about one or two of the classics on Cannon - Moby Grape, Whitney G, Sams Swan Song come to mind.
- Marc

#21722 - 06/15/06 11:32 PM Re: What if.... [Re: MarcC]
andrew Offline


Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
the routes on sundance buttress at lumpy ridge to think about would be kor's flake and mainliner. both are fantastic, but they just feel like big cragging routes. i wouldn't suggest coming out specifically to do one of those and then go home.

the 5 miles into the petit is a very easy 5 miles, especially if you bivy at sky pond - though you need a permit for that. big approaches are good for you!
This isn't an office. It's Hell with fluorescent lighting.

#21723 - 06/16/06 01:24 AM Re: What if.... [Re: MarcC]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4242
If I went to the Tetons and climbed Baxter's Pinnacle or Guides Wall- and that was it- I would probably be satisfied because I didn't know any better as they are great but I could probably have a pretty similar experience on, say Whitney-Gilman. * But, if I knew better, I would wish someone would have told me to climb Irene's Arete instead. More work getting there, no doubt, but, so much worth the extra effort. A long weekend to Jackson Hole would be tough.

Similar experience meaning short approach, nice setting, say length, etc etc.

#21724 - 06/16/06 10:18 AM Re: What if.... [Re: Mike Rawdon]
oenophore Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5981
Loc: 212 land
I'm with Mr. Rawdon here. The flight would leave one jet-lagged and sleep-deprived -- not in best climbing trim. Add a redeye flight back home and feel like you-know-what on Monday.

#21725 - 06/16/06 11:26 AM Re: What if.... [Re: oenophore]
Chas Offline

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
The question doesn't answer a lot of questions, like how fit are you for long approaches.... and what are you willing to spend on airfare, and in what range.

You can fly into Jackson Hole for the Tetons, but you will really pay a lot for airline tickets. The other option is to fly into Salt Lake City and then drive 5 hours but that adds 10hrs of drivig to your weekend so its not that reasonable. Otherwise if you are VERY fit you can do many of the routes in a day. Did 3 routes in 3 days in the Tetons last summer but the catch was I needed to meet people in Jackson Hole every night for dinner, but then again I ws very fit.

You can fly into Reno for the Eastern Sierras and do many things there in a reasonable manner (ie: someone of decent but not extrordinary fitness), things in the 5.6 to 5.9 in the Bear Creek area. A bunch of other things listed in the Supertopo Sierras are possible car-car in a day (but not the Minirets, since they sit back a bit...)

You can fly into Reno, Sacramento, San Jose of San Fransisco for Yosemite or Tuolumne. MarcC gives good suggestions for Tuolumne. In Yosemite East Butt Middle Cathedral or East Butt of El Cap would be classic, moderate day ascents and would leave time for classic moderates since as Nutcracker or Central Pillar of Frenzy, all with no approaches....

#21726 - 06/16/06 01:25 PM Re: What if.... [Re: Chas]
Timbo Online   content

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 696
Loc: Delaware

You can fly into Reno, Sacramento, San Jose of San Fransisco for Yosemite or Tuolumne.

Take the word of a frequent East Bay visitor, Oakland is the airport of choice. 45 minutes closer to Yos, cheaper flights, smaller airport (i.e. - no hassle).

SFO means driving through shitty traffic for 45 minutes just to get to where you are when you fly into Oakland.

San Jose, well its about the crappiest airport I have ever seen. Perpetually under construction, with long waits to get a shuttle to the rental car center.

Oakland, definitely.


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