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#21969 - 06/24/06 06:47 PM A flimsy, boring trip report for the east coast
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
For some odd reason I planned to go to The New for 6 days, followed immediately by driving up to Cannon in New Hampshire. Don't ask me why, it just seemd like a fun idea. Anyhoo, we got to the New on a sunday evening, and as usual it was absolutely pouring out. I thought the tent was actually going to float away at one point. Luckily Rogers yard is relatively well drained. Suprisingly enough though, it cleared up and we barely saw a cloud the rest of the week, and temps were in the 70's...marevlous!
We warmed up on Monday by playing 9 holes while the rock dried out. My score isn't even worth mentioning. Afterwards we went to the Bridge Buttress to try some trad. We had come down last year to enjoy clipping bolts and found out that the New has some awesome looking trad lines. So we did Layback Flake at 5.9, Zag at 5.8, and easily Flakey at 5.7ish. Love the 30 second approach here.....makes up for the fact that the wall is only 50 feet tall.
Tuesday we went back and did Jaws 5.9. Everyone said it was a great route. Personally, I thought it rather sucked. greasy laybacking on a polished and rounded crack in a corner. Not my idea of a stellar route. However, Tree Route 5.10a is a good pitch. Much more friction, interesting and varied climbing, and pretty damned continuous. We wound up seiging this the rest of the afternoon.
Wednesday we went to Central Endless and did Fantasy 5.8, Grafenberg Crack 5.9-, and The Legacy 11b. Fantasy was fun, Grafenberg was okay. The Legacy was on eof the bolted lines we tried last year. I actually pieced it all together this time and got the rope to the top. It's such a shame this line is bolted. Incredible climbing in great positions. Other than the first 35 feet or so, the gear is damn near perfect. Anyway...still a lot of fun climbing it.
Thursday we went to Junkyardm having never been there either. We did some 5.7 to the left of Yosemtie Crack, we did Yosemite Crack at 5.9, and Four Sheets at 5.9. Four Sheets is really good climbing with a pumpy and long crux section. Uber fun. Another roun dof golf was had after flopping around on Four sheets. I don't know which was worse, my golf game, or my climbing.
We headed back north, played 9 hiles someplace off of I-81, picked up Mr. O'Brien in New Paltz, and headed for Cannon. Strangely enoughm the weather at Cannon was super humid and in the 90's. Neitherof my partners had ever been to Cannon before, so we had to the obligatory ascent of Moby Grape and Whitney G. I managed to snag the first 3 pitches of Union Jack though as on onsite. After slipping and sliding in smooth greasy cracks at the New, I felt like a fly stuck on flypaper here. Every jam just stuck. Every smear stayed put. I love Cannon. Still want to get on Vertigo, Sam's Swan Song, and Duet Direct. Next time though.

RR

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#21970 - 06/26/06 07:26 PM Re: A flimsy, boring trip report for the east coast [Re: RangerRob]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2219
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Tuesday we went back and did Jaws 5.9. Everyone said it was a great route. Personally, I thought it rather sucked. greasy laybacking on a polished and rounded crack in a corner. Not my idea of a stellar route.

I've done that route as well. And yes, I thought "what's the big deal about this climb?". Plus there was an angry snake in the crack, so it was more challenging trying to get around it.

I would skip the trad theme for the opportunity to climb Angel's Arete again - that's a stellar route in the Bridge section. One of the best climbs I've done at NRG. If I recall, it goes at 5.10a.

Jannette

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#21971 - 06/26/06 08:00 PM Re: A flimsy, boring trip report for the east coast [Re: Jannette]
CrackBoy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
i really liked tree route at the bridge buttress, i think it was 10a.

Jaws was alright. i liked some of the stuff at junkyard....new river gunks and yosemite were fun, as were four sheets to the wind
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#21972 - 06/26/06 11:19 PM Re: A flimsy, boring trip report for the east coast [Re: Jannette]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
We looked at it. Gear looked to be rather marginal, so we skipped it. We did toprope Englishmans Crack however....without success.

RR

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#21973 - 03/03/07 04:19 PM Re: A flimsy, boring trip report for the east coast [Re: RangerRob]
Eddie Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1446
Loc: NP. NY
Quote:

We looked at it. Gear looked to be rather marginal, so we skipped it. We did toprope Englishmans Crack however....without success.

RR




what did you do with the englishman's crack?

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