Shout Box

Who's Online
0 registered (), 18 Guests and 3 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 1 of 2 1 2 >
Topic Options
#2324 - 05/24/01 04:59 PM next in line...
superfli137 Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/28/00
Posts: 191
Loc: Portland, OR
To all you yosemite climbers out there:
I want to go and try my hand at a big wall within the year. I live in NY, so its a bit of a hike to get there. What is the realistic wait to get on an easy / moderate (clean) aid wall? ie. would a week and two weekends suffice? What are the chances of getting a campsite. The only thing I ever hear about yosemite is that it is crowded and cramped. I am hoping its a little better than that :-\

Thanks,
superfli


Top
#2325 - 05/24/01 05:04 PM Re: next in line... [Re: superfli137]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1763
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
That depends on when you go. The man you want to get in touch with is Chuck. Try sending him a personal message.

-Arms
_________________________
Arms

Top
#2326 - 05/24/01 05:16 PM Re: next in line... [Re: superfli137]
andrew Offline

Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
Any route in mind? You can definitely do most walls in that time frame except some of the longer El Cap routes.

I've only been on El Cap, so I can't speak for the other walls. You can probably expect a 2 day wait for the Nose, Salathe, Zodiac, or Lurking Fear. The bail rate is quite high(I'd estimate that 80% were bailing earlier this week because of the heat), so carry loads to the base of your route and hang out-you may be able to get on it earlier than you think. Walking around the base is kind of fun anyway-most people there are very nice and interesting, and there is lots of booty to be found. I scored a #2 Lost Arrow and some stoppers last week.

Camping in the Valley sucks. Its not hard to get a site at Camp 4 during the week, but weekends are tough. Show up early and be prepared to wait in line for several hours. The rangers arrive at 8:30, but the line usually starts forming around dawn. If you can't get a site in Camp 4, you can take your chances bivying clandestinely in the Valley, try a campground outside of the Valley(Crane Flat had sites available in October), or find somewhere outside of the park. I don't much care for Camp 4 in any event-it is very noisy until at least 10 PM.

Have fun,
andrew


Its all A1 until you fall.
_________________________
This isn't an office. It's Hell with fluorescent lighting.

Top
#2327 - 05/24/01 05:36 PM Re: next in line... [Re: superfli137]
Eddie Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1446
Loc: NP. NY
The valley is great. do not be discouraged. When i was there in Oct. there was no line for the tangerine trip. zodiac, the nose are always busy. i plan to get out to half dome this year to beat the heat and the crowds.
lost in america looks like a great line too. never much of a line on it either.
The A4 pitches are not tooo bad if the stuff is fixed(it is alot of the time) if not it may be time consuming and scary copperheading....but that is what you are there for huh?
good luck.
when do you leave?
eddie







Too much fun stirring it up
_________________________
http://oldstyleportraits.com/

Top
#2328 - 05/24/01 08:07 PM Re: next in line... [Re: Eddie]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
The wait for routes really depends on (a) what you are doing, (b) the time of the year (c) how lucky you are. A friend of mine (Hugo) did the Nose last year and had it nearly to himself (1 other party on it). Other times you can wait for a 2-5 day wait. Not only can you have a wait to get on the wall but when you are on it you can run into a party who is REALLY slow and won't let you pass. I had run into a party who took 8 hours to aid a 150ft A1 pitch and his partner 2 hours to clean it (and my partner had dealt with them on another wall). Met a woman from the Gunks who was attempting to do her first wall, the Prow, who got stuck behind a party who did 4 pitches in 4 days; she bailed on the 4th day.

Ok, there are horror stories but don't let that discourage you. Now, the weather and camping.

I will say early summer (mid-May to Mid-June appears to be the absolute worst time to get on a wall if you are doing anything easy or moderate; with the few weeks around Memorial Day being the worst interms of crowds; so like a fool I am hoping to jump on one myself this upcoming weekend). Mid-June things tend to become quiet in the Valley (in terms of climbers- the touroids are becoming their worst) and in the last few years climbers have lucked out and have been blessed with slightly cooler weather for a few days in this period the last couple of years, but don't bet on it- it can be absolutely blistering. Mid-sept to mid-Oct can be really good; but snow is also a possibility; (but ask Vlad; a couple years ago they had snow the first week of June so go figure). Some years anytime can be good (my friends did a wall for the New Year), but between the end of Oct to mid-April, you can bet on snow.

So the answer is..... probably the end of March to mid-May you will have the least crowds for climbing and a reasonable probablity of good weather (but can have a raging snowstorm also), and then again from Sept to late Oct, is the same. In the summer it can be blistering, and the winter- leave to the seasoned wallrat.

As for camping; you hear nothing from me, but time it so you can be at the kiosk at Camp 4 early. Early is dependent on the time of the year. Before May; before midnight, between May and mid-May that would be before 7am, between mid-May and the end of August, I used to get there at 5:30am and bring my sleeping bag and crash in line, after mid-Sept you can get there by 6:30am.

With all that said, it is a really great place to do long routes and cragging. You just have to not all that sh&t get to you.


Top
#2329 - 05/24/01 08:21 PM Re: next in line... [Re: Chas]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Oh yeah, in that time you could jump on a wall and finish it.

As starter routes, try the Prow or South Face of Washingtons Column. Regular Route on Half Dome, or a couple of my friends first route, Leaning Tower (ok; it is REALLY exposed from the start). All the routes can be completed in two days.

For good advise, ask Adrian Hill on Gunks.com. Adrian has been really active doing walls in Yosemite, or Ranger Frank.

Top
#2330 - 05/25/01 03:56 PM Re: next in line... [Re: andrew]
d-elvis Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/26/00
Posts: 3650
Loc: Central PA
Do you think with recent developments (Lurking fear, etc) that aid climbing will eventually become history in Yosemite?

_________________________
"Marriage Survivor"

Top
#2331 - 05/25/01 03:56 PM Re: next in line... [Re: Chas]
superfli137 Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/28/00
Posts: 191
Loc: Portland, OR
Thanks guys; all this is really helpful. I have a few more questions while we're all waiting for the work week to end...

How are waiting lines "managed" if they're 2 days long? I guess Im used to the gunks where if you turn your back for 30 seconds, someone will jump on before you.

How safe is your gear at basecamp (wherever that may be)? I cant even leave my rope tarp at the bottom of a climb in the gunks and expect to see it ever again, not to mention anything expensive.

Can you start routes at night so you dont have to camp on the ground?

sorry for all the questions; im getting excited c(- :
superfli


Top
#2332 - 05/25/01 04:13 PM Re: next in line... [Re: superfli137]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Last (maybe) post before leaving for the Valley myself.

Safety of gear in Camp 4. Sure, you can leave your stuff (tent, sleeping bag, cooking stuff,...) at Camp 4. But , there has been transient and not so transient thieves in the past, so don't leave expensive clothes, fleece, goretex jackets, climbing gear, cameras...... in camp (unless it goes into a bear box and you place a padlock on it).

You can start a wall at night (i'm doing that tonight) but by in large, its not worth the bother. If its your first wall, enjoy the trip and forget the clusterf%ck in the Valley below . Don't let the horror stories bother you. It can be a three ring circus/ clusterf%ck on some of the routes in hih season, but go in with the attitude that you are just going to enjoy the ride since its a beautiful place.

PS: when you are standing at pitch 1; everything seems so HUGE and massive, but remember, its just 1 pitch, and the next climb is 1 pitch. You are just doing 36 different climbs over the day(s).


Top
#2333 - 05/25/01 06:28 PM Re: next in line... [Re: d-elvis]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1763
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
I don't aid myself but I think there will always be a place for aid in climbing--clean and hammer.

The big debate will be what goes clean and what doesn't. What goes clean easilly for Andrew may turn into a nightmare for me. So when the going gets tough, should I bail, or break out the hammer?

I other words, whats a nailup to one climber may be a clean line to another.

Another consideration, Lynn Hill freed The Nose in a day. Is it a free line now. Clearly, in this case, it is not. But, where do you draw the line? If 10% of climbers can free it? 25%? Same case could be made for clean -vs- hammer.

Well that's probably enough said from a person who doesn't even know how to aid. Just trying to throw out a few Ideas. This might make a good topic for a separate thread.

-Arms
_________________________
Arms

Top
Page 1 of 2 1 2 >


Moderator:  andrew, Mike Rawdon 
Sponsored