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#23298 - 08/23/06 01:53 PM Long Pitches
d-elvis Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/26/00
Posts: 3650
Loc: Central PA
In a rope stretching pitch with lots of gear, is it safer to place gear equally on either side of the rope's line or does it not matter?
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#23299 - 08/23/06 07:22 PM Re: Long Pitches [Re: d-elvis]
Architect Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/19/04
Posts: 210
Loc: north by northeast (from jerse...
I could only imagine that would cause some rope drag and one more overly thought out process to contend with.
especially on a long pitch. It would be better to use doubles on said route. i guess but What the heck do I know these days. I post more then I climb now. URG!
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#23300 - 08/23/06 07:47 PM Re: Long Pitches [Re: d-elvis]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
nobody actually knows. the italian mountaineering club's research division is working on the precursors to this problem now...

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#23301 - 08/23/06 08:01 PM Re: Long Pitches [Re: d-elvis]
quanto_the_mad Offline
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Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
only when climbing splitters.
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#23302 - 08/24/06 01:08 AM Re: Long Pitches [Re: d-elvis]
rackrat Offline
member

Registered: 12/20/02
Posts: 160
Loc: NYC - UWS
Safer to place gear in a straight line... however that is easiest.
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#23303 - 08/24/06 01:35 AM Re: Long Pitches [Re: d-elvis]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
If it's a crack, part of the work of leading is keeping the gear and the rope out of the way of the jams and out of the way for putting your foot in the crack. Putting the gear all on one side is a big advantage along those lines.

The only time I can think putting gear on opposite sides is safer is when you want to trap the rope where a fall involves some penduluming. For example, say your gear is 4 feet off to the left from where you're going to pull an overhang, with a 4 foot sling on it, then if you can get a piece 3 feet off to the right (at the same height) with a 4 footer on it, then the one on the right will keep you from swinging more than a foot to the left (instead of 4 feet). (Of course, keeping yourself from getting tangled up in those slings is a major challenge....)

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#23304 - 08/24/06 12:52 PM Re: Long Pitches [Re: d-elvis]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Quote:

In a rope stretching pitch with lots of gear, is it safer to place gear equally on either side of the rope's line or does it not matter?




Safer than what?

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#23305 - 08/24/06 10:32 PM Re: Long Pitches [Re: Mike Rawdon]
intrepid02 Offline
Snarky Bastard

Registered: 06/24/02
Posts: 1421
Loc: Boulder
Quote:

Quote:

In a rope stretching pitch with lots of gear, is it safer to place gear equally on either side of the rope's line or does it not matter?




Safer than what?




Golf

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#23306 - 08/24/06 11:52 PM Re: Long Pitches [Re: intrepid02]
fear Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/27/03
Posts: 221
Loc: New England
Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

In a rope stretching pitch with lots of gear, is it safer to place gear equally on either side of the rope's line or does it not matter?




Safer than what?




Golf




Golf with OJ?

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#23307 - 08/25/06 12:26 AM Re: Long Pitches [Re: Mike Rawdon]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

Safer than what?




Climbing a 25' 5.0 with this much gear?
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