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#23478 - 08/29/06 11:30 PM Re: Your choice for small cams [Re: dalguard]
intrepid02 Offline
Snarky Bastard

Registered: 06/24/02
Posts: 1421
Loc: Boulder
I've basically come to the same conclusion as Dawn. Half of my aliens have held falls without incident. All of them have been bounce tested. I don't have the resources to do pull tests, so I'll have to deal with what I've got.

I went to Neptune Mountaineering today and looked at their small cam selection. The fact of the matter is that there is no better small cam design. If someone else starts manufacturing aliens, I will buy a new set, but until then I'll keep climbing on my combination of Aliens and TCUs for small cams.

But the real question is: If this Karr guy is innocent, why are there still hordes of reporters camped out at the Boulder Courthouse?

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#23479 - 08/30/06 12:02 AM Re: Your choice for small cams [Re: intrepid02]
Frank Florence Offline
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 529
Loc: moved to Bend
I’ve never been a big fan of Aliens, and for years have carried a Metolius 00 TCU and a Black Diamond 0.2 Microcamalot as the smallest cams on my rack. Each of these pieces suffers from having a wider head than equivalent Aliens, but I’ve never found that to be too much of a nuisance at the Gunks and even less so when climbing in places with more vertical continuous cracks. I’ve looked at the smallest C3 (the 000, I think) and it’s just slightly smaller than the 00 TCU. Not really enough of a difference for me to switch, especially given its rather hefty price.

I see that the discontinued 0.1 and 0.2 Microcamalots are on sale through various outlets so for some this may be a cost effective option. I have no issues with my 0.2 and, yes, it held a fall just fine.

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#23480 - 08/30/06 03:11 AM Re: Your choice for small cams [Re: Frank Florence]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
I missed the conclusion that sulfuric acid caused the Sacramento gym rope failure. Can anyone provide a link to that "announcement"?

And did the rope owner explain how the acid might have come into contact with it? The "battery acid" explanation is not IMO as realistic a scenario as most would suggest - car batteries are under the hood of the car (in most vehicles); you ever put your rope in there??

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#23481 - 08/30/06 03:40 AM Re: Your choice for small cams [Re: Mike Rawdon]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
http://www.bdel.com/pdf/Rope%20Breakage%20-%20final.pdf

there are coincidental ways a rope could come into contact with sulfuric acid.......unlikely and rare maybe, but possible.....thats why ropes dont just break _all_ the time.......according to kp, just four times including this one.......

i've seen leaky exploded and discarded car batteries in the most random of places......parking lots are far from a random place to find a car battery.....and the guy had his rope on the ground in one during one of its last uses before the fall.....is it a one in a million chance? sure.....but in this case it appears to have happened....

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#23482 - 08/30/06 10:32 AM Re: Your choice for small cams [Re: strat]
D75 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/18/05
Posts: 293
Loc: Holiday Inn Express
Quote:

Isn't this a case where statistical significance isn't too relevant? One cam that fails under controlled testing situation within its claimed limits is enough, isn't it?




Have you ever flown on an airplane?

Do you ever drive or ride in a car?

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#23483 - 08/30/06 11:37 AM Re: Your choice for small cams [Re: D75]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4242
Quote:

Quote:

Isn't this a case where statistical significance isn't too relevant? One cam that fails under controlled testing situation within its claimed limits is enough, isn't it?




Have you ever flown on an airplane?

Do you ever drive or ride in a car?




The master troll rears his head. Get back under the bridge. Your hooks stink too much to chew on.

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#23484 - 08/30/06 02:29 PM Re: Your choice for small cams [Re: strat]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
If you are looking for the analysis of the rope incident its on the Black Diamond website. The analysis was pretty good.

As for aliens, I gave up using them long before all this came out. The aluminum is so soft, I would go through them too fast (you can only file off the burrs on the edges which retard their trigger action so often.). I ended up going to the Wild Country Zeros. I don't see the beef about them. The seem to place easier that aliens, and I've taken some fairly decent whippers on them (30-35fters). Metolious's are decent ( a friend tooks a 140fter on it last month ). I have a Black Diamond- like thoem a lot also. Its just preference

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#23485 - 08/30/06 08:13 PM Re: Your choice for small cams [Re: intrepid02]
irisharehere Offline
Site Supporter

Registered: 12/06/01
Posts: 1658
Loc: Danbury CT
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE:

The Orange CCH Alien cam that was reportedly involved in the Paradise Forks incident, has turned out to be dated 10-05, rather than the highly publicized date of early 2004. This information has been verified the by the Coconino County Sheriffs Depart both verbally and in photographic form, with Dave Waggoner of CCH, during CCH’s own internal investigation. It is however still unknown if this unit was clearly dimpled.

The window of the recall was 11-04 to 12-05, thus any Alien cams date coded during this period should be tested, dimpled or not.

CCH will tensile test customers’ Aliens, of any manufacture date at no charge, to ensure that they will withstand a fall. Testing is done to 2/3 the rated tensile strength. After testing, all cams are currently being identified with a “Tensile Tested” stamp on the main swage above the loop. We will test and return cams to our customers within 1 week of receiving them.

Please attach your complete contact information to each unit being returned for testing, to facilitate a speedy turn-around.


Dave Waggoner

Colorado Custom Hardware Inc.
115 East Lyon Street
Laramie, WY 82072 USA
(307) 721-9385
_________________________
I didn't spend nine years in Evil Graduate School to be called "Mr Irish", thank you!

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#23486 - 08/30/06 08:55 PM Re: Your choice for small cams [Re: irisharehere]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
That's a little worrisome. I brought 4 Aliens in to R&S to be looked at. 2 had dimples and went back. 2 didn't and weren't tested in any way. I'm not blaming R&S for this. I'm sure they were doing what they were told. Sounds like CCH is backtracking.

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#23487 - 08/30/06 09:16 PM Re: Your choice for small cams [Re: dalguard]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2362
Loc: Boston
Quote:

That's a little worrisome. I brought 4 Aliens in to R&S to be looked at. 2 had dimples and went back. 2 didn't and weren't tested in any way. I'm not blaming R&S for this. I'm sure they were doing what they were told. Sounds like CCH is backtracking.




Not surprising, though. Many people wondered aloud whether an independent contractor who was already cutting corners by cooling the units too fast could be trusted to put the dimple on every piece.

GO

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